14 – the Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I know I can’t keep writing about the same places but this has quickly turned into one of my favorite spots. Perhaps because of the convenient location, perhaps because it’s hard to find this quality of food, drinks and service in one location in NYC. Or maybe it’s because I could eat the hot dog everyday (even though I have never had any previous interest in hot dogs).

I admit I do not get the fuss over the Canlis salad (on the menu for 2 weeks originating from Canlis in Seattle). It was tasty and perfectly executed and I can appreciate the nostalgia of a classic, but still……

Jungle Bird (not the reserve one!) and Forbidden Dance

Scotch olives – lamb sausage & sheep’s milk cheese

Tuna tartare – pine nuts, apple & mint

Hair Trigger – Venezuelan rum, fernet, ginger, lime, cucumber

The Shaman – pisco acholado, salers, pineapple, lemon, cinnamon, angostura

Canlis Salad – romaine, bacon, mint, oregano & Romano cheese, dressed with lemon, olive oil & coddled egg

Bay scallops – marinated with yuzu & pistachio

Burger – dry aged with cheddar, red onion & pickles

Charlie Watts – aged rhum agricole, Guyanese rum, Batavia arrack, black pepper, apricot, lemon, pineapple

27Jul2014

NYC – 7/21/14 – Empellon Taqueria

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

When I’m traveling I seem to get asked a lot what my favorite New York restaurants are. Inevitably I struggle to answer because with an endless stream of new places opening there is often never time to re-visit those that I really like. But I really do have favorites and this is certainly one. I’ve been a huge fan of Empellon Taqueria since it opened and everything Alex Stupak has done since. I had been wanting to get to the monthly taco tastings for a while but it just never worked out. So glad I finally did. Loved them all but the crushed fava bean was definitely my favorite! The lighting is not photo friendly though.

Guacamole (2nd in NYC only to that at Empellon Cocina)

Crushed fava beans, charred pole bean

Smoked salmon, cucumber, toasted almond, purslane, mezcal

Eggplant, sun gold and gooseberry salsa, papalo, chipotle mayo

Lamb’s quarters, rabbit, avocado green goddess dressing

Broccoli and huanzontles, pimento cheese, chicken chicharrones

Duck ‘Moo Shu’, sour plum salsa, celtuce

25Jul2014

San Fran – 7/20/14 – Bar Agricole, Humphry Slocombe, Flour & Water

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Bar Agricole
The only disappointment of the weekend was missing out on Bar Agricole’s cocktails. I woke up with migraine induced nausea so terrible that I didn’t know how I would possibly make it to brunch. I forced myself out and thankfully rallied but a Radler seemed to be a better idea for an upset stomach.

Avocado and beets with goat cheese and seeds

Baked eggs with black eyed peas, house-cured ham, wild spinach and goat cheese

Humphry Slocombe
As it just happened to be National Ice Cream Day I needed no further justification for an afternoon ice cream! I’m not sure that there could be anything better than bourbon ice cream.

Flour & Water
I waited in line but unfortunately lost our first table as my friends were stuck in traffic. How convenient that Trick Dog was right across the street while waiting for them to arrive! It all worked out perfectly and I had plenty of time to make it to the airport. I wish I had gotten the name of the absolutely lovely hostess who texted me updates on or new table.

Heirloom tomato panzanella with cucumber, mozzarella Di bufala & basil

Grilled stone fruit with herbed ricotta, salsa verde, purslane & pistachio

Corn cappelletti with honey & chocolate mint

Pork cracklings with calabrian chili aioli

Pici which braised rabbit, gypsy pepper & prosciutto soffrito

Pomodoro – heirloom tomato, fior Di latte, garlic & basil

Salsiccia – pork sausage, Calabrian chili, capers, lamb quarters

Chocolate budino with espresso cream & sea salt

Zucchini cake with fried squash blossom, chantenay carrot & gelato di bufala

Seasonal gelato

21Jul2014

San Fran – 7/19/14 – SPQR, State Bird Provisions, Trick Dog, Wilson & Wilson

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

SPQR
After a morning walk up and down a few hills I kept walking the whole way to SPQR for lunch. I so rarely eat pasta that I appreciate it even more when I do and this was delicious. Of note, there were more solo diners here for lunch than I have ever seen at any other restaurant. We actually outnumbered the 2 and 4-tops. I know it’s not a good thing for the restaurant’s bottom line, but I did love seeing it. Even though I’m quite comfortable dining alone, there are still moments when I feel like a complete outcast.

Sweet carrot and lentil salad, medulla date and vadouvan curry crema

Buckwheat tagliatelle, cider and bacon braised suckling pork and spigarello broccoli

State Bird Provisions
I had a moment after I had been waiting in line for about 45 minutes when I was seriously questioning my sanity. I hate waiting in line. Perhaps one too many times of trying to be in the front row of a general admission show. I’ve only waited at a restaurant twice before, oddly both for pizza, Di Fara and Pizzeria Bianco. The former I barely remember as we were so hungry by the time we got our pizza that we would have eaten cardboard and so totally inhaled it without even tasting it. And the latter is my absolute favorite pizza in the US so it was well worth the wait.

If I lived in San Fran I think I would be at State Bird once a week, line and all. Hands down this was the most fun I’ve ever had dining alone. I never even picked up my book. The dim sum concept is just fantastic when so well done. It’s a bit like gambling in that you don’t know if you should take the 1st dish that comes around, or hold out for something you may like better. At first I wished there was a list so I would know how many choices there would be and strategize appropriately (actually there is a list online but I wasn’t sure how frequently it changed, etc). But I quickly realized that being surprised made it so entertaining. Next time I do need friends just so I can try more. In the end I only ordered 2 things from the actual menu but saw so much leaving the kitchen that I wanted to be able to eat. Lastly I think it takes a certain personality to work in this type of concept and everybody here had ‘it’ in spades.

Shrimp ‘Louie’ bean salad

Guinea hen dumpling

Garlic bread with burrata

Air dried beef with chili juice, rice powder & garlic chips

Smoked trout-avocado chip & dip

CA state bird with provisions

Yeasted butter cake, sing old tomato caramel & peaches

Trick Dog
Thankfully not everybody went to Tales of the Cocktail!

Coit Tower – Rittenhouse rye, raspberry, thyme, lemon, cider

Dragon Gate – campo de encanto acholado pisco, muscat, Szechuan pepper, lemon, ginger, egg

Wilson & Wilson (in Bourbon & Branch)
Even better than a basement speakeasy is one with a password. I’m still trying to figure out what I said to get myself labelled as a scotch drinker! I needed you dad.

19Jul2014

San Fran – 7/18/14 – Coqueta, Mikkeller Bar, Coi

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Coqueta
A lovely lunch at Coqueta but why do I always get the clueless diners? A table of guys thought they were so cool, yet tried to order chips & salsa (at a clearly Spanish restaurant but I guess Spain and Mexico are the same) and then despite a great cocktail list, a T&T as if it was the greatest drink of all time. Don’t get me wrong, I love a G&T but not when there are much more interesting versions on the menu.

Tariff- jamon iberico infused gin, acorn & apricot tonic, orange, cava

Esparragos Trigeros con Romesco – wood grilled green asparagus with coal roasted romesco salsa, raw manchego and Marconi almonds

Huevos Nacional – deviled eggs filled with spring pea, smoked pimentos aioli, on pickled saffron potatoes and olive oil poached bonito

Jamon Serrano

Pintxos

Albondigas a la Feria – Grilled duck and pork meatballs with tart cherry and Tempranillo salsa and crispy shallots

El cazador – oloroso sherry, Campari, lime, honey

Cheesecake

Mikkeller Bar
I couldn’t stop thinking that as much as I enjoyed this place my brother should have been with me because he would have loved it more. I do find it interesting that while the brothers don’t get along, they clearly respect each other’s talents as Evil Twin is featured predominately here (as is Mikkeller at Torst).

Coi
Lovely is the only word that comes to mind to describe this evening. Exceptional service. Great wine pairings. And the most perfectly portioned tasting menu I can remember having.

California Bowl

California Sturgeon Caviar, egg yolk poached in smoked oil,crema fresh, chive

Seared Spot Prawn, watermelon, cucumber, opal basil

Cherry tomatoes, purée of grilled zucchini and wheatgrass, green olive oil, herbs and flowers

Chilled spiced eggplant soup, pole beans, charred okra, fermented chile, flowering cilantro

Wild king salmon, crayfish bordelaise, lovage, fennel pollen

Steamed shiitake potato dumpling, mushroom dashi, brown butter, tatsoi

Emigh ranch lamb, chard leaves and stems, garum, rosemary

Coconut Mochica bun, kiwi, shiso

Ha’ogen melon, olive oil, holy basil

Blueberries and Violet

Frozen dark chocolate yuzu marshmallow

15Jul2014

Philly – 7/14/14 – Serpico & Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co

Posted in Philadelphia by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Serpico
As expected ex-New Yorker Peter Serpico is doing great things in Philly. I may even forgive him for partnering with the intolerable Stephen Starr because I liked this place so much. Loved the decor by Thomas Schlesser and this would be a perfect spot for solo dining because of the very large section of counter seating around the open kitchen. And while we did just arrive just before a deluge, it flooded the restrooms.

Midnight Society – Four Roses Yellow Bourbon, Lairds Applejack, honey, lemon, red wine float

Raw diver scallops – buttermilk, poppy seeds, green yuzu kosho, white soy, chive

Rice cracker

Duck liver mousse – pomegranate, grilled bread

Cope’s corn ravioli – chorizo, white cheese, sour cream, lime, cilantro

Fried maitake mushroom w/ dipping sauces

Caper brined trout – smoked potato salad, pepperonicini, crab, trout roe, chive oil

Toasted apple cake – burnt apple sauce, brown butter, vanilla ice cream, caramel

Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co

The Mother of Invention – Famous Grouse scotch, fernet, Luxardo Maraschino, grapefruit and lemon juices, ginger syrup, peychaud’s bitters, tonic

A Walking Study in Demonology – Rittenhouse Rye, Gran Classico, Branca Menta, cane syrup, allspice dram, angostura

14Jul2014

NYC – 7/13/14 – Cherche Midi

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Today’s lesson – always have a back-up plan. We intended to have dinner at Root & Bone but when I arrived a few minutes before opening they were in the midst of a basement plumbing crisis and dumping buckets and buckets of water into the street. Consequently no walk-ins. Janine Booth couldn’t have been more lovely and I will try again soon. On to Cerche Midi. It was a more appropriate pre-Bastille Day spot anyway! Overall solid, not earth shattering, but what I expect from Keith McNally.

Julia’s Blush – Campari, Citadelle gin, lemon juice, agave

Octopus terrine

Hamachi crudo w/ Yusuf, radish and shiso

Steak frites w/ Maître D’ butter

Pan Seared Salmon w/ lentils, cumin scented yogurt and greens

Roasted cauliflower w/ sauce gribiche

Lemon Tart and sherbet

Walnut cake w/ yogurt ice cream

7Jul2014

NYC – 7/5/14 – The Nomad Bar, Milk & Honey

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The Nomad Bar
I keep saying that this will not become the subject of too many blog posts, but I lied. It took all of my willpower to not go back for another hot dog today and I don’t really even like hot dogs that much. Let’s just say that the pot pie definitely has competition.

Satan’s Circus

Jungle Bird (and no not the $42 one!)

Swiss Cheese, beer mustard, pickles & pretzel chips

Beef tartare, horseradish & cornichons

Baked clams, breadcrumbs, bacon & garlic

Hot dog, bacon wrapped with black truffle & celery

Chicken pot pie, black truffle & foie gras

French fries, herbs, lemon & prommery mayonnaise

Cheesecake, strawberry & shortbread

Banana pudding with rum & brioche

Candy Bar with dark chocolate and caramel

Milk & Honey

5Jul2014

NYC – 7/4/14 – Raines Law Room, Library Bar @ the Nomad, Narcissa, the Third Man

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It’s so nice to have friends in town who love cocktails even more than I do. Even better is how absolutely deserted most of Manhattan is on July 4th. If only everyday was like this I would stay here forever.

Raines Law Room
Midnight Stinger – Ritthnhouse rye, fernet, simple, muddled lemon, mint

Library Bar at the Nomad
Fresa y Cerveza – Berliner Weisse, yellow chartreuse, strawberry shrub, jalapeño, agave, saline, lemon

Narcissa
The first time I was here I ended up horribly sick from a migraine and remember about 20% of my meal. What I remembered was good, although I wasn’t sure that I could trust my memory. Thank you friends for humoring me and giving me a redo.

Mission Figs, homemade ricotta, mangalista ham, sunflower seeds