Copenhagen – 7/7/18 – Sanchez & 108

Sanchez
A lovely bike ride to a lovely brunch at Sanchez.


tuna tostada

rice bowl – eggs, avocado, kale with spicy mocha salsa

108
A great last meal in Copenhagen.  Beautiful and vibrant dishes that I have come to expect in this city ending with a surprising and great combination of ice cream and caviar.


green peas with last year’s ceps

greens and herbs from kroger up with roasted seaweed

lobster claw with white currants

marinated courgettes with smoked egg yolks

raw grilled lobster tail with summer flowers

grilled quail with beetroot and spices

raspberries from Rokkedyssegaard with hazelnut milk

raise kombu ice cream with royal belgian caviar

Copenhagen – 7/6/18 – Noma

It was definitely a weird experience to be at the new Noma. But it was perfect and still feels like Noma. After so much anticipation it went far far too quickly and was all a bit of a blur. Going back through my photos and the menu it seems that some dishes were out of order so after so many month I have given up on a few of the descriptions.


potato magma

nasturtium tart, sea buckthorn and blackcurrant butterfly

seasonal pickles

just cooked peas with whipped cream

berries and lava beans


umami flatbread

marigold flowers with a whisky egg-nog

shawarma of celeriac and truffle

caramelized milk and cheese

pumpkin seed curd and grilled roses

shawarma

artichokes

berries and cream

mold pancake

rose scented terracotta


Copenhagen – 7/5/18 – Manfreds and Baest

Manfreds

In a city of great restaurants Manfreds is my favorite casual spot.  Perfect for lunch, dinner or a glass of wine.  The food is always fantastic and I can’t imagine ever going to Copenhagen and not coming here.  I forgot to take a photo of the menu but the XL beef tartare I can’t forget.

Baest
Yes there is really good pizza in Copenhagen (and charcuterie too)! I unfortunately don’t remember what pizzas we had but they were all quite good.

charcuterie and cheeses

salad from Farm of Ideas, parmesan and cured egg yolk



Copenhagen – 7/4/18 – Restaurant Barr

It was very weird to be back in the old Noma space and it not be Noma.  Restaurant Barr was absolutely lovely and far exceeded my expectations.



hot smoked mackerel, tomatoes and hip roses

cured ribeye, green asparagus and parsley

cucumber salad

chicken with creamed and grilled leeks, wild salad and chicken jus

fish frikadelle

rhubarb, creme fraiche parfait and vanilla

Tulum – 4/22/17 – Noma Mexico

I was originally very ambivalent about going to Noma Mexico.  While I loved my visit to Noma, I never had an interest in their other pop-ups and in general pop-ups tend to feel ‘off’ to me.  When we managed to get tickets I thought it was all a bit crazy, more so because of the heat and bugs than the cost and distance.  Yes it was expensive but after seeing how much work went into building this restaurant from scratch I immediately realized that the ticket price was nowhere near expensive enough.  I tried not to worry what would happen if it rained as the restaurant was open to the elements.  Sure enough a few courses into dinner the raindrops started and while some tables were sheltered, we were not.  Before I could even start to wallow in my bad luck, we were whisked into the kitchen.  It turns out that there was a rain contingency plan (I should have known better).  Throughout the kitchen counters folded up to create bar seating and in the end every guest was relocated if not already seated under a roof.  It should have been complete chaos with the FOH staff occupied with moving people and chairs and bringing fresh drinks to keep everyone happy.  Meanwhile as lovely as the ‘dining room’ was, we were just thrilled to suddenly have a first row kitchen table seat.  A similar event would probably throw any other restaurant into a tailspin that they could never recover from, but service seemed to restart in a matter of minutes.  The whole thing was so impressive I talked about it for weeks afterwards.  I can’t even imagine how many times it was rehersed.  Aside from the fantastic hospitality, Noma managed to create a menu that 100% felt like them but with entirely local ingredients.  I suppose this is what an ideal pop-up should be, but is generally impractical to execute without this sort of large scale commitment.  Despite the dozens of bug bites I didn’t want it to be over (and briefly considered how truly crazy it would be to try to go a second time).

pinuela and tamarind

queen clam from the Sea of Cortez

salbute with dried tomatoes and chapulines

cold masa broth with lime and all the flowers of the moment

young coconut and caviar

tropical fruit and chile de arbol

banana ceviche

tortilla ladies

chaya taco with fresh bahia salsa oyster

giant key and mussel michelada


whole grilled pumpkin



tostada with escamoles

just cooked octopus with ‘dzikilpak’



cerdo pelon and fresh milled corn from Yaxunah



dessert of grilled avocado and matey seeds

chocolate from native Jaguar cacao and Mixe chile


NYC – 3/22/17 – Kristian Baumann x Chef’s Club

In a different setting I think I would have enjoyed this dinner so much more.  Its completely personal preference but for some reason Chef’s Club just didn’t work for me even though I quite like the space.  I also think its difficult to have these dinners in the main dining room.  But still fantastic to have Kristian Baumann in NYC.

little neck claims, rosehip seed oil, salted gooseberries, seaweed

California spot prawn

brown beech mushrooms, fresh goats milk cheese


grilled & glazed squab, nashi pears, arugula, blackberries



rausu combo ice cream, toasted barley, blackcurrant wood oil

Copenhagen – 8/29/15 – Kodbyens Fiskebar and AOC

Kodbyens Fiskebar
I loved the location of the Fiskebar in what is the meatpacking district of Copenhagen. It was bustling yet felt off the beaten path and was an excellent spot for an outdoor lunch. Far far more refined food than you would ever expect from the location at first glance. And while the food was outstanding, in American terminology, a perfect Sunday funday spot.


Cod tartar – rye emulsion, capers, dill and burnt onion
 Plaice – peas, morels, bone marrow and tarragon
 3 Nordic cheeses

AOC
I definitely felt that I qualified as a local having biked to dinner in 6 inch heels. How I made it back to my hotel after wine pairings I have no idea. This was an absolutely perfect meal to end my trip. Once again it was amazing to see so many ingredients repeated yet done in such different ways. For example I had already had several courses of mackerel in the previous days, but I certainly didn’t have to cut any out of branches and eat as finger food. Nor did I have to break a potato out of a plaster cast with a stick. And while I had plenty of onions, none had merited a table side presentation. The baked onion course perhaps illustrated one of the many things I loved about Copenhagen. An onion is rarely the star of the show, often a forgotten but necessary ingredient in many recipes. But done right, it can be a star all by itself. Perhaps my most memorable dish of the meal, and one of the most memorable of the entire week was the extra aged steak course. Umami to the millionth degree.

Appetizers






    
Razor clam, Apple, kale & parsley

Mackerel, vendace roe, hazelnut & sea buckthorn

Baked onion, elderflower & caviar 
Turbot, lard & turbot roe 

Grilled greens, veal sweetbreads & stinging nettle pure 
Dry aged beef, caviar, mushrooms

Pigeon breast, cherries, sorrel & smoked marrow 

Gooseberries, woodruff & pine 
Blueberries, sheep yoghurt and thyme 
Burned Jerusalem artichoke, walnuts & sugar beet syrup 
Tea and mignardises