7/3/19 – Axpe, Spain – Asador Etxebarri

A bit surreal to actually make it here. Perfect in its simplicity and one of my favorite days of 2019.

6/3/19 – Lima – La Mar and Maido

La Mar

La Mar is one of those places that I could happily eat at every day.  A perfect choice for the first meal when arriving in Lima.

Maido

Mashua, chicken liver, duck heart, chalaca

ocopa

ahi negro chawanmushi

poda cebiche – sabandija cream, catch of the day, shallots, ahi limo, chulpi corn, nikkei leche de tigre sudado – catch of the day, sudado reduction, seaweed cuy-san – cauliflower cream, garlic and rocoto cream, torikara sauce, Pachacamac greens Nigiris gindara misoyaki – cod marinated in miso, crispy Bahuaja nuts, apple gel, Procon mushrooms powder Cabrito dumpling – baby lamb, beans foam, creole sauce with loche, northern style cilantro and chichi de hora sauce beef rostra rib 50 hours, native potato cream, crispy rice, cushuro

sea urchin rice – chiclayo rice, attic sea urchins, avocado cream, wan yi, baby corn theobroma cacao – granadilla with mandarin sorbet, mucilage foam, cacao nibs, lucuma ice cream, raspberries Theobroma bicolor – smoked ice cream made from macambo seeds with shoe, crunchy nibs, sugar coated macambo, camu camu, goldenberry and mucilage

5/26/19 – San Francisco – Angler

Yes it is expensive but everything I have had at Angler has been perfect as are service and the setting. If the world ever returns to normal I would so love to have a repeat of this meal.

Tuxedo #3

Amberjack, cultured cabbage & pear

Parker House Rolls Sweet Chicory Caesar

Grilled Asparagus

Whole artichoke with swarnadwipa spices Hot fried quail Sundae

 

5/23/19 – Big Sur – Post Ranch Inn

I had wanted to visit Post Ranch Inn for quite a while and was so disappointed on this particular morning when I realized that the may gray was not going to burn off.  However even without a sunset (which I hope to get back for some day) the view is amazing.  And even when the fog rolled in limiting visibility to about a foot, the effect was still worth experiencing.  View aside, this was a really great meal with impeccable hospitality.  And I have been craving smelt ever since.


Morro bay oysters, rhubarb, sweet William, tarragon

beer battered smelt, anton’s borage, remoulade, meyer lemon

monterey abalone, post ranch mushrooms, fava bean, green garlic

romanesco cauliflower, nasturtium gremolata, meyer lemon confit, pine nut

farm egg, white anchovy, leeks, pencil asparagus

lone mountain wagyu beef ribeye, beets, spring onion, bone marrow jus

cheese

hazelnut & chocolate, hazelnut meringue, garden lemon curd

seared apricot, rosemary, buckwheat, local honey

4/9/19 – Antwerp – The Jane

The Jane is housed in a repurposed chapel of a military hospital which makes for stunning setting for this lover of architecture and food.  The restaurant suffered a fire after I booked and was closed for several weeks.  I was afraid that our reservation would be cancelled but the stars aligned.  This lunch was delightful.


we got burnt

chu-torro, scrambled egg

sea urchin spaghetti

langoustine, quinoa, carrot, vadouvan

foie gras, rhubarb, hazelnut, nano-hoshiko

white asparagus from stephanie longiune, smoked eel, teardrop peas

perte blanche from bourcefranc-le-chapus, plankton, kaffir

pollock, grey north sea shrimp, chateau-halon

pollock, grey north sea shrimp, chateau-chalon

suffolk lamb, ramsons, morille, black truffle

pigeon from steenvoorde, cassis, bbq-cabbage


4/6/19 – Copenhagen – Noma, Iluka, & Barr

Noma
I’m not sure how my next visit will possibly top this one.  However I said that the last 2 times!  Lunch is definitely the best time to visit Noma 2.0.





Iluka
We only had room for a few bites after Noma but they were great and I am looking forward to going back very soon.

langoustine and pink pepper
queen scallop


cured and smoked salmon

hart bakery bread & butter

Barr

lumpfish roe, grilled belgian waffle and soured cream


tartar – raw beef with damson and pickles

3/23/19 – Chicago – Kumiko

Now one of my favorite places in Chicago.  If you haven’t been, what are you waiting for?


eggplant – miso, lots of herbs and rice crackers

steam buns, berkshire pork belly, spicy pickles and an herb bouquet


tempura prawn – head mayonnaise, yuzu and mint

short rib – braised with pickled plum, puffed beef tendon and beef fat hollandaise

Loup de mer – grilled with bok choy, furikake and ponzu

japanese milk bread – fermented honey ice cream and perigord truffle

gianduja – crémeux with genmaicha, coconut and lime

2/16/19 – Bogota – Leo

I am still a bit conflicted about Leo.  This is a very interesting and educational experience and I would never otherwise have a chance to experience most of these ingredients and the beverages that were a part of the pairing.  There was a table next to me that did not want to even try some of the more exotic ingredients and they missed out.  However I didn’t find any of these dishes to be delicious and there was not one that I would choose to have again.  And there was more than one that I really struggled with which rarely had happened to me.  Perhaps go for the experience because it is one that you won’t otherwise have.














11/20/18 – Budapest – Onyx

Dinner at Onyx is a perfect 2 michelin star experience. Service was very welcoming and friendly despite the fairly formal space and all dishes quite good. The bread basket is perhaps the best one I’ve had and its truly a shame that I couldn’t put more of a dent in it. Definitely a do not miss when in Budapest.



water buffalo tartare, shallot, mushroom

goose liver, coffee, almond

catfish, bacon, fish soup

oxtail consomme

venison “montage,” duck ravioli, celeriac, chervil


turo rudi, forest fruits

11/17/18 – Paris – Clown Bar and Chez la Vieille

Clown Bar
Clown Bar is easily one of my favorite places in Paris and lately has been my first stop for lunch after arriving.

mackerel tempura/piquillos

radicchio/beets/black olive

milk-fed veal tartare/paris mushroom

Chez la Vieille
Another of my absolute favorites.  I would be quite happy eating here at least once a week.  Always at the bar.

blanquette de veau

herring  and potato salad

10/6/18 – LA – Bavel & Simone

Bavel
I can’t quite believe I haven’t been back yet.  My only criticism is that these fantastic dishes that stood out to us on the menu collectively came with too much bread.  If you haven’t been yet, a definite must-do in LA.

Josef – clove infused gin, apple brandy, almond, fennel, lemon

hummus!

lamb tartare – burnt onion creme fraiche, pickled chive blossom, mint, cinnamon

grilled octopus – orange infused yogurt, sumac, dried bell pepper, sun golds, chervil

slow roasted lamb neck shawarma – tahini, pickled turnips, fermented cabbage, laffa

Simone
Simone was highly anticipated after a very delayed opening. But after being plagued by a host of ownership and management issues, and without food that compensated, it is now closed.

seasonal pickles

tomatoes, mustards, sorrel, whipped tahini

red lentil hummus, smashed cucumbers, nasturtium

pole beans, urfa chili creme fraiche, purple tomatillo, almond

ricotta gnudi, grated tomato, guanciale, basil

charred squash, nectarines macadamia salsa macha

hoja santa sturgeon, roasted corn, blistered shishitos

9/2/18 – Seoul – Soigne

The last dinner of a whirlwind trip to Seoul was really quite good. The theme of the menu was “Stamina Food” which reflects the Korean philosophy of food in the sense that it is not nearly a means of indulging in the pleasure of eating but as medicine for protecting and recovering one’s health. The very detailed dish descriptions provided described how each dish was chosen and how it was cooked. Very thoughtful even if too long to post here.












9/1/18 – Seoul – Mosu

In 2017 Sung Anh moved Mosu from San Francisco to Seoul. It is definitely Korea’s gain as this was an absolutely lovely dinner with fantastic service and delicious dishes, especially the abalone “taco.”

burdock bark

small bites






sea perch, white kelp, habanero

mackerel, pine cone, grilled carrot

black truffle, hog fennel, rice

short rib, shiitake, shaoxing wine

quail, ground cherry, pearl onion

black raspberry, kombu, almond

caramelized milk, amaranth, cognac

Costa Mesa & LA – 8/18/18 – Taco Maria & Vespertine

Taco Maria
The pork belly taco was the best taco I have had anywhere.

Paloma

Aguachile – Hokkaido scallop, cucumber, jalapeno, avocado, cilantro oil

Arrachera – hanger steak, roasted chilis, applewood bacon, queso
Tocino – pork belly, piloncillo glaze, plums, salsa de aguacate

Vespertine
I’m still not quite sure what I think about Vespertine. The building is fantastic. Photos really do not do it justice as you need to see it within its neighborhood. I loved the outdoor space where we started and finished as well as the rooftop. But the dining room just felt odd and dark and cold and the music was mind numbing. I can’t say that any of the dishes were memorable but were all just good. At the very least it makes you think.

V E S P E R T I N E – Menu – 08.18.18


Copenhagen – 7/7/18 – Sanchez & 108

Sanchez
A lovely bike ride to a lovely brunch at Sanchez.


tuna tostada

rice bowl – eggs, avocado, kale with spicy mocha salsa

108
A great last meal in Copenhagen.  Beautiful and vibrant dishes that I have come to expect in this city ending with a surprising and great combination of ice cream and caviar.


green peas with last year’s ceps

greens and herbs from kroger up with roasted seaweed

lobster claw with white currants

marinated courgettes with smoked egg yolks

raw grilled lobster tail with summer flowers

grilled quail with beetroot and spices

raspberries from Rokkedyssegaard with hazelnut milk

raise kombu ice cream with royal belgian caviar

Copenhagen – 7/6/18 – Noma

It was definitely a weird experience to be at the new Noma. But it was perfect and still feels like Noma. After so much anticipation it went far far too quickly and was all a bit of a blur. Going back through my photos and the menu it seems that some dishes were out of order so after so many month I have given up on a few of the descriptions.


potato magma

nasturtium tart, sea buckthorn and blackcurrant butterfly

seasonal pickles

just cooked peas with whipped cream

berries and lava beans


umami flatbread

marigold flowers with a whisky egg-nog

shawarma of celeriac and truffle

caramelized milk and cheese

pumpkin seed curd and grilled roses

shawarma

artichokes

berries and cream

mold pancake

rose scented terracotta


Copenhagen – 7/5/18 – Manfreds and Baest

Manfreds

In a city of great restaurants Manfreds is my favorite casual spot.  Perfect for lunch, dinner or a glass of wine.  The food is always fantastic and I can’t imagine ever going to Copenhagen and not coming here.  I forgot to take a photo of the menu but the XL beef tartare I can’t forget.

Baest
Yes there is really good pizza in Copenhagen (and charcuterie too)! I unfortunately don’t remember what pizzas we had but they were all quite good.

charcuterie and cheeses

salad from Farm of Ideas, parmesan and cured egg yolk



Copenhagen – 7/4/18 – Restaurant Barr

It was very weird to be back in the old Noma space and it not be Noma.  Restaurant Barr was absolutely lovely and far exceeded my expectations.



hot smoked mackerel, tomatoes and hip roses

cured ribeye, green asparagus and parsley

cucumber salad

chicken with creamed and grilled leeks, wild salad and chicken jus

fish frikadelle

rhubarb, creme fraiche parfait and vanilla

Jarpen, SE – 7/3/18 – Faviken

I didn’t get much sleep the night before traveling to Faviken as with limited flights, and airports quite a distance away, everything had to work out perfectly in order to arrive in time for dinner.  As I was making the very long drive from Trondheim, Norway to Jarpen I was questioning whether any restaurant could meet my expectations after putting forth so much effort to get there.  But the entire experience was even better than I had thought possible.  It was so much fun and  went by far too quickly.  Also a bit surreal to finally be there.


snacks in the gardening shed



linseed and vinegar crisps, mussel dip
mycelium broth
wholegrain wheat cracker with swede salad
wild trout roe served in a crust of dried pig’s blood

pig’s head, dipped in sourdough and deep fried, rhubarb, tarragon salt

bird’s liver custard, malted cabbage and gooseberries

slices of “spickeskinka’

scallop “i skalet ur elden” cooked over burning juniper branches


king crab and almost burnt cream


perch steamed with wild leaves and flowers from around Faviken, a disk of butter flavored with garum, cooking juices

grilled oyster

sourdough pancake, seaweed, beef butter

lupin curd gratin

mahogany clam with frozen lingonberries

a small egg coated in ash, sauce made from dried trout and pickled marigold

steamed swiss chard, oat sauce

pork chop and “tasty paste”

liver toast

colostrum with meadowsweet

raw jerusalem artichoke, darkly roasted cereals

potato dream

silage ice cream

strawberries baked in pearl sugar, very fresh cottage cheese



raspberry ice

bone marrow pudding, frozen milk

pickled semi-dried root vegetables

reindeer and birch pie

a wooden box filled with tar pastilles, meadowsweet candy, dried rowan berries, smoked caramel, sunflower nougat and dried black currants

aromatic seeds


snus fermented in a used bitters barrel

negroni variation

Looking into the kitchen at almost midnight

after dinner views



inside the tent

Bornholm, DK – 7/1/18 – Kadeau

It was quite a trek to get to Bornholm.  An early flight to Copenhagen, a rental car, a long drive and a ferry ride.  I was starting to think that I was crazy but then you arrive at Kadeau, sit down and look at the water and it is so peaceful that the trek seems long ago.  So many absolutely beautiful and delicious dishes with my favorites having been the palthasta and shawarma chicken.


zucchini, green juniper, Korean fir

cured duck breast, cherry blossom

kohlrabi, green strawberries, fermented pea juice

Baltic prawns, green rhubarb, dried cep mushroom

oyster, sauerkraut, hazelnuts, blackcurrant leaves

palthasta, aged cheese, flowers

scallop, roasted yeast, broccoli, rhubarb root

preserved tomatoes, onions, tomato water

potatoes, blueberry kombucha, lovage, Havgus cheese

carrots, wild horseradish, lyme grass, reduced cream

herring, pickles and fresh cheese


shawarma chicken, beef fat, sea buckthorn and rosehip BBQ

rhubarb, caramelized buttermilk, nobilis

creme fraiche, black currant, beet root, sugar kelp

Oslo – 6/30/18 – Maaemo

Perhaps the most perfect lunch I have ever had.  A gorgeous day and an amazing table with a view of the kitchen.  The brioche was one of my favorite dishes of the year and the smoked reindeer heart was a close runner up.  While Oslo wasn’t my favorite city, I will have to go back.


chilled cherry blossom tea

potato flatbread, smoked mountain trout and fermented turnip

brioche with bone marrow and sage

oysters and aged caviar with salt from the west coast, warm sauce of mussels and dill

smoked mackerel from the Oslo fjord, dried and fresh flowers

fresh scallop from Steigen in two servings, raw with white currant and black currant leaf, cooked in its shell with celeriac and gooseberries


gently steamed king crab claw, smoked scallop roe and lemon verbena
wild turbot poached in an emulsion made from turbot bones, sorrel and mushroom dashi
“Rommegrot” – a porridge of very sour cream, smoked reindeer heart and salted butter with plum vinegar

aged spring lamb with summer salad from Bergsmyrene Farm, garlic and plums from last year

frozen blue cheese with pickled black trumpet mushroom

Norwegian strawberries and cream, fresh roses, elderflower and rhubarb root

brown butter ice cream molasses and roasted hazelnuts

warm Norwegian waffles made with beef fat and koji grains, brown cheese, preserved berries and whipped romme

Oslo – 6/29/18 – Kontrast

wild parsnip with buckwheat

Tartar of wild salmon with potato and dill, deep fried salmon skin

tartar of lamb from Korsvold Farm

amackerel from Kristiansand marinated in fermented cherry juice and roseroot with radish and salsify

duck liver from Holte Farm, meadowsweet from Songsvann and pickled walnuts

king crab, grilled rhubarb with rose-hip from Bygdoy


Wild salmon from Namenfjorden, charred cucumber with sea arrow grass and wasabi leaves from Oksenoya
grilled summer cabbage with sauce of dried lobster and scallop with fermented lobster head and crab apples
veal from Grondalen Farm with sauce of horseradish, lovage and sour cream with turnip

Mangalitsa pig from Svartskog Farm, roasted garlic and swiss chard from Korsvold Farm

Kraftkar from Tingvollost, honey from Vulkan Beefarm

Ice cream made of bone marrow from Horgen Farm, granite of summer berries and rhubarb
Elderflower from Skott Farm, spanish chervil cream with elderflower ice cream

Jerusalem artichoke and coffee
apple marmalade
caramel of brown cheese from Prestholt in Hol

Stockholm – 6/28/18 – Mathias Dahlgren & Gastrologik

Mathias Dahlgren
During the day this space in the Grand Hotel is absolutely lovely and makes for a quite perfect lunch stop.  It is pricey but every dish was fantastic and it was very hard to choose what to order.



raw marinated pike-perch & pine nuts, trout roe, orange, lemon verbena

steamed bun “pork adobo,” pickled cucumber, coriander, pepper

green peas & roasted cauliflower, pickled garlic, rye bread, lime

 
Gastrologik
With very limited time I had a very difficult time trying to narrow down where I wanted to dine in Stockholm.  This was the opening I debated for a while and can’t imagine having missed Gastrologik.

tunnbrod with smoked perch

summer onion and rakfisk

chicken liver, apple and meringue

grass kelp with truffle algaes

seasonal greenery with last winter’s smoked cod roe

knackebrod made with Warbrokvarn spelt with lovage ‘margarine’

karintorp tomatoes with mates herring, sour cream and pine shoot oil

raw shrimp from Smogen with radishes and horseradish

soured vegetables, daikon, black currant leaves and maritime flavours

smoked mackerel from Smogen with cucumber, unripe gooseberries and angelica

Zander’s cheek with peas and white asparagus porridge



Lettuce from Karshamra farm with grilled butter

Breast, thigh and stomach of corn-fed duck from Munka-Ljungby with rhubarb



Elderflower with frozen yoghurt and cucumber

Frozen sorrel with cream and parsley

Tea

“Sandkaka’ with currant leaves and early summer blossoms

White asparagus tart with honey

Stockholm – 6/27/18 – Oaxen Krog

An amazing view and a completely lovely meal! Highly recommend.



Norrona herring & potato

Pork belly from Nibble gard with jerusalem artichoke & ramson

Beef tartar with natural soured cream & wild oregano

200 year old Mahogany clam with mushroom

King crab with herring roe, potato crisp & kale

Perch with pickled knotweed

Shrimp with lemon verbena & dill


Swedish wagyu with corn from Skilleby farm & potato soy


langoustine, fermented pear, gooseberry, horseradish & green juniper

white asparagus with broad beans, smoked bone marrow, black currant & elderflower

hay baked turnip with fresh garlic & cream of lovage & celeriac from our farm

scallop marinated in shellfish gram, labrador tea & buttermilk

grilled asparagus with suger kelp, pickled rhubarb & sturgeon caviar

mackerel with vegetables from Skilleby farm & reduced clam juice

lamb with preserved apples, rosehip & fennel


unripe strawberries with granite of wild pineapple weed & frozen goat yoghurt

rhubarb from our garden with hagberry blossom ice cream, strawberries, cucumber & almond

Stockholm – 6/26/18 – Ekstedt

A great start to this trip. And smoked deer is my new favorite thing.


lightly smoked mackerel, peas and elderflower

oyster

Venice roe from Kalix, smoked deer and birch fired leek


Juniper smoked pike-perch, endive and sunchoke

Hay-flamed mushrooms, sweetbread and salsify

Birch fired lamb, cabbage and ramson capers

cheese from Lofsta farm

Glamed spruce-crepe, rhubarb and nuts

a

Chicago – 5/12/18 – S.K.Y.


warm mushroom salad, avocado, chèvre, chilies

maine lobster dumplings, jade butter, soft herbs

black truffle croquettes, aged white cheddar, jalapeño

hamachi sashimi, black sesame ponzu, puffed rice

roasted pork belly, red chili vinegar, cabbage, coriander

berkshire pork chop, habanero honey sauce, crushed peas

crackling beef short rib, smoked gochujeng, spring succotash

foie gras bibimbap – charred vegetables, mushroom bulgogi

fried chicken, fermented hot sauce, creamed corn

thai steak salad, golden shallots, fish sauce vinaigrette

blistered green beans, cantonese vinaigrette

crispy potatoes, black truffle dip


Chicago – May 11, 2018 – Bellemore & Smyth

Bellemore
While everybody seemed to be flocking to Bellemore for dinner, lunch is the perfect time to visit this beautiful space.  The tartare was delicious and the burger is one of the best in the city.

kona kampachi tartare

burger with caramelized onions, mushrooms, mayonnaise and swiss

Smyth
I was long overdue for another visit to Smyth and it was even better than my first time soon after opening. I’m looking forward to next weekend!

sea lettuce cookie

fried sourdough with “the farm” maple & uni

salted rhubarb & radish with seaweed & oyster

shiva, nuka, pine cone

shima ahi ribs barbecued over spruce

dungeness crab & foie gras with scrambled kani miso

gulf shrimp with green almonds in malted cream

“the farm” asparagus gently cooked in hay & bittermilk whey

burnt salsify with geoduck clams & guinea hen jus

dried corn with squab liver mousse & hickory nut

squab wrapped in sorrel with honey

slow cooked beet with beet blood bolognese

caramelized sweetbreads with soured spring vegetables

lamb breast with soured cream & trio fuerte



milk chocolate, raspberry preserves, kelp & shiitake

milk sorbet with “the farm” honey & conifer

egg yolk soaked in salted licorice with frozen yogurt meringue

dried apples, burnt honey, comb & potato

lemongrass ice cream sandwich & black carrot

Los Angeles – March 31, 2018 – Son of a Gun & Pizzeria Mozza

Sun of a Gun
Still one of my favorite places. The pimento cheese and shrimp will never get old.

pimento cheese dip

peel & eat shrimp

salad of somewhat unknown ingredients

Pizzeria Mozza
I’m very picky about pizza and Mozza is still one of the best. But the carrots were so fantastic that I had to go back for them.

shaved carrots, fennel, mizuna rabe, caraway yogurt & rye

meatballs, mozzarella di bufala, tomato, chili flakes & fresh oregano

Melbourne – 3/16/18 – Cumulus and Lee Ho Fook

Cumulus
I could eat lunch here everyday!

marinated cucumbers, finger lime & buckwheat

raw fish, kohlrabi, creme fraiche & pink peppercorns

charred broccolini, black barley, tahini & barberries

Le Hoo Fook
Yet another great meal in Melbourne. I loved everything and only wish I could have ordered more.

raw hiramasa kingfish, ginger pickled kohlrabi, spring onion dressing


Buddha’s delight – charred sweet corn, garlic stem, peanuts and smoked daikon sang choi bao

duck

Birregurra, AU – 3/15/18 – Brae

In this case I think the pictures speak for themselves. Beyond gorgeous. Stunning drive from Melbourne, fabulous guest suites, and a fantastic dinner.








bonito cured overnight with kelp and mountain pepper

prawn, nasturtium and finger lime

Brae farm vegetables and grilled green tomato juice

herb toast and sea urchin
eggplant and salt grass lamb washed with sweet onion juice, fragrant and acidic plants

smoked eel doughnut

barbecued beetroot seasoned with Brae farm honey and rainbow trout roe

iced oyster

hapuku, cucumber and fermented cabbage, pressed chives and yoghurt whey

crayfish and shiitake with Brae farm egg yolk, meat broth and seaweeds

Sommerlad chicken wood roasted on the bone, zucchini ‘nose to tail’

today’s tomatoes



strawberry gum ice cream and frozen passionfruit

parsnip and apple

early autumn fruit from Brae farm and surrounding orchards

baked meringue and macadamia with ridiculously good cream

rhubarb and pistachio, blood and preserved blackberry

Melbourne – 3/14/18 – Attica

Love love love.  Including the ants, grub type worms and possum.
 

Tac’Oz

Aged Santa Claus Melon

Pearl Cooked in Paperbark

Our Vegemite, Our Salada

Witchetty Grubs

An Imperfect History of Ripponlea

Green Ant Pav

All Parts of the Scampi

Chewy Carrots


Mutton Shell

Mystery Meat

Hand Picked Crab and Sour Damper


Red Kangaroo with Truganini


Pumpkin, Offal and Sour Beer

Grilled Marron with Desert Lime

Pests of the Neighborhood


Camel Milk Ice

Whipped Emu Egg

Attica Cheftales

Sydney – 3/13/18 – Automata

I debated between a few places to visit on my last night in Sydney and so glad I listened to one of my favorite Momofuku employees and went to Automata.


dried tomato, sheep’s milk curd, black plum, shiso, tomato vinegar

cuttlefish, pickled celery, shallot oil, fennel & ink


steamed murray cod, turnip puree, daikon, roasted kelp oil

pork neck, eggplant, fermented cucumber & mustard

manchengo, pickled carrot, wild thyme honey, fennel pollen

Sydney – 3/12/18 – momofuku seiōbo

The NYT review that came out right after this visit said it all more eloquently than I ever could. I do disagree that Seiobo has “less and less in common with the other Momofuku restaurants.” While there are not any typical Momofuku dishes, the entire experience felt identifiably Momofuku to me.  And the marron was my favorite dish in Sydney.

mofongo – plantain, garlic, chicharrones

cou cou – corn, okra, sterling caviar

sea urchin, cassava, pepper sauce butter

green banana, creole, mullet roe

ducana – sweet potato, currants, caribbean x.o.

mamposteau – rice, beans, peanut

marron + coconut bakes


pernil – pork chop, choko, mango

passionfruit + roselle

pumpkin, burnt coconut, seeds

cakes – rum cake + cassava pone + guinness cake

Sydney – 3/11/18 – Saint Peter and Quay

Saint Peter
My first meal on this trip was off to a good start with a G&T with my favorite gin – Four Pillars – which I would go on to drink at every opportunity.  I am so glad that I managed to fit this in and a bit mad that I didn’t come back everyday for lunch as it was that good.


raw diced 10 day aged Mooloolaba broadbill, sour onion & egg yolk

BBQ Coorong pipis, burnt tomato, lemon thyme & garlic mayonnaise

Berry’s creek blue cheese VIC

Quay
Is there another restaurant that has a more spectacular view?  This was overall such a lovely experience and I am so glad I got to try the famous snow egg right before it was taken off of the menu.

Another Four Pillars G&T with an opera house backdrop.

And extra course that unfortunately I can’t remember

new season muntries, sheep’s milk feta, sour cucumber, herbs, pistachios, verjus

congee of hand dived scallops, heart of palm, black vinegar laver

bread & butter

slow cooked quail, fermented mushroom custard, green walnuts, brioche porridge, seed crackling

smoked confit pig jowl, southern squid, shaved shiitake, sea cucumber crackling

steamed coral trout, heirloom radishes, sake, lemon

Arkady lamb, barletta onions, ice plant, oca, lemon puree, roasted hemp seed

snow egg

oloroso caramel, muscovado, dulcet, muscatel, walnut

LA – 3/9/18 – Majordomo

I am so excited to have Momofuku on the west coast!!!!  Too bad it is impossible to get reservations but if you time it right you can get a seat at the bar. The egg and smoked roe bing was delicious and a fun take on the Ko egg. Too bad peas will likely not be on the menu by the time I make it back.


Bing – eggs & smoked roe

raw sugar snaps, horseradish, lemon, shallot

Santa Barbara rock crab – spicy cured, chilled & crab fat rice


Nashville – 3/3/18 – Josephine, Urban Cowboy and Rolf & Daughters

Josephine
A great stop for brunch in the increasingly packed 12 South neighborhood of Nashville.


baked oatmeal

bibb lettuce, bacon, croutons, radish, herb buttermilk dressing

quiche, arugula, country ham, caramelized onion

Urban Cowboy
We stopped at Urban Cowboy for an afternoon snack and a few cocktails.  Such a fun place, especially with a group and I was surprised by just how good the food was.  I can’t wait to go back.

charred olives & beef fat

smoked bread & smoked butter

raw beef, endive, apple, walnut

Rolf & Daughters
I will be honest, until I looked back at my photos all I remembered from this meal was the butternut squash salad.  It was so fantastic I reordered it for dessert.  I gave myself a terrible stomach ache and didn’t sleep at all, but it was completely worth it.  But the rest of the meal was pretty great as well.

butternut squash, salsa macha, mimolette, mint

lamb sausage, yellow eyed peas, chili, mustard greens

dry aged beef tartare, barley mayo, french breakfast radish, farro

rigatoni, pancetta, ceci bean, spinach, WI pecorino

garganella verde, heritage pork ragout, sarvecchio

beef short rib, salsa verde, caesar salad, sprouted rye


Dessert

Nashville – 3/2/18 – Husk and Bastion

Husk
After watching the fried chicken episode of Ugly Delicious how could I not immediately head to Husk?  But it is really the pimento cheese that keeps me coming back.

Bastion
Definitely go early for the fantastic bar in the front where you must order the nachos.  I had heard mixed things about Bastion and almost skipped it.  I’m so glad that I didn’t.  All delicious dishes, although did not find it quite enough food.  And I love when the dishes I am most skeptical of end up being my favorites – ie. the gizzard and XO carrots with sea urchin,



raw oyster + kimchee

raw beef + radish

sunchoke + pistachio

gizzard + peanut

XO carrots + sea urchin

beef tongue + rutabaga

grouper + chicken broth

sweet potato + pecan

strawberry + coconut

Nashville – 3/1/18 – Henrietta Red

Henrietta Red lived up to very high expectations.  But ending with fancy jello shots….awesome.


beef tartare – castelvetrano olive, preserved meyer lemon, cured egg yolk, brioche

roasted root vegetable salad, parsnip, radish, baby beet, buttermilk, dill, sesame seed

wood roasted oysters, dill, mustard butter, thyme breadcrumb

red butter lettuce, whole grain mustard, toasted almond, pickled turnip, orange, castelvetrano olive

red snapper crudo, cara cara orange, horseradish tarragon, quinoa

cauliflower steak, cashew aillade, sweet potato, pickled pepper, salsa verde

farro risotto, celery root, mushrooms, pine nuts, parmesan, scarlet frill

wild striped bass, oyster mushroom, creamed kale, mustard emulsion

JELLO SHOTS

San Diego – 2/25/18 – Cala Cala x Vino Carta

Loved this installment of the pop-up dinners at Vino Carta.  It is fantastic to see how these continue to grow.

roasted & fermented vegetables, trout roe, brown rice, charred bread

live scallop crudo, lardo, XO sauce, seaweed oil, preserved citrus

eucalyptus smoked lamb & beef tartare, blackberry, jicama, pine nuts

grilled chicories, pork, calabrian chili, kohlrabi

yakitori quail, wheat berries, green garlic, meyer lemon, wild mustard

San Diego – 2/17/18 – Ceviche House

Somehow they were out of the first two wines we tried to order but it was only up-hill from there.  I could eat these dishes everyday.

La Paz – big eye tuna, cucumber, orange zest, ginger habanero salsa

shrimp aquachile, cucumber, red onion, radish, serrano, cilantro, lime

grilled octopus, green pipian, toasted sesame, radish

Yellowtail – morita & hibiscus coulis, cucumber slaw, seasonal fruit, crispy hibiscus flower

San Diego – 2/10/18 – Cucina Sorella

It was finally time to branch out from Cucina Urbana which has been a go-to for more years than I can remember.  As good as expected and the Big Table Farm pinot did not hurt.

pesto & piquillo pepper flatbread – zucchini, pecorino, arugula, ricotta

market chopped salad – kale, fennel, celery root, grape, ricotta salt, cashew, white balsamic

pumpkin & goat cheese & zatar & crudite

grilled sicilian meatballs – amatriciana, guanciale, grana padano

NYC – 12/30/17 – Atla and Momofuku Ko

Atla
Deserted on a frigid and snowy morning but excellent as always and worth making the trek for.

arctic char and farmers cheese tostada

ranchero eggs

Ko
Very belated and a bit sad in retrospect as this was my last visit to the Ko bar before the space was renovated.  I will eventually catch up to the new space and menu (which is awesome) but I loved the old one as well.

NYC – 12/29/17 – Flora Bar

The first time I tried to visit Flora Bar was unfortunately Super Bowl sunday and it was closed.  It obviously took me a long time to make a second attempt but was certainly worth the effort.

snow crab with miso mayonnaise


tuna tartare, sunflower, and hijiki
sea bream crudo with pomelo and chrysanthemum

chicories with pears, hazelnuts and Bayley Hazen Blue

potato and raclette croquettes

Futsu squash and black truffle tart

lobster and crab dumplings in yuzu broth

NYC – 12/28/17 – Ferris

It is fantastic to see more cool places move into the Nomad area of NYC.  Ferris makes the best of below street level location and overdelivers for its modest setting.  A definite must visit.

chips & dip – chicharrones, chicken liver mousse

blood sausage – grilled dates, toasted seeds

(I discovered I am missing a page of the menu and consequently descriptions for a few courses.)

octopus – egg custard, confit potato, pedro ximinez

beets – black sesame tahini, young coconut


carrot agnolotti – lamb neck, pickled squash

Philadelphia – 12/27/17 – Abe Fisher

Yet another fantastic spot in Philly and another place I’ve been wanting to try for a while.  The pickled mackerel dip was fabulous even though not what I was expecting with lettuce cups.  The sweet potato was perhaps the favorite, although the chicken was pretty great as well.  So glad I wasn’t dissuaded from this visit.

potato latke, herb sour cream, horseradish, aged cheddar

pickled mackerel dip, bibb lettuce, gribenes, beet pickled turnips

baked cheese blintz, mozzarella, Muenster, barley, roasted mushrooms

gin cured fluke, challah, whipped butter, pickled onion

sweet potato, boursin cheese smoked walnuts, pickled long hots

shakos chicken, dried apricot, parsnips, potato and swiss chard kugel

Philadelphia – 12/26/17 – Vernick Food & Drink

I had been wanting to come here for so long and it certainly did not disappoint.  If I lived in Rittenhouse I would probably be here once a week and hope for a seat at the bar with my name on it.


(I wish I could remember what this one was!)

beef tartare, fresh horseradish

yellowfin tuna & sugar snap peas, olive, yogurt, mint

San Diego – 12/17/17 – Born & Raised

I really want to like Born & Raised. The design is fabulous and I am happy for more high end concepts to enter San Diego. Unfortunately the service was terrible on this and a previous visit and unacceptable at this price point. My first issue, not unique to this restaurant, is being asked for a credit card when ordering the bar. It was not crowded and I was clearly ordering dinner. The bartender cannot keep track of me when I did not move? I despise this practice and what feels like punishment for preferring to dine solo at the bar while doing the restaurant the favor of not occupying a 2-top. I ordered 2 dishes that would be table side preparations if not at the bar (although I am told that if you order more than one table side preparation you will only actually get one). If I am not going to get the added show, could I at least have new flatware between courses? Or actually asked if I want the dishes coursed? While the tartare was excellent, the toast was a horrible choice as far too soft to actually support anything and created a collapsing mess each time I tried. I would have enjoyed a second cocktail, but alas I couldn’t get the bartender’s attention for 25 minutes. Perhaps why they need to ask for credit cards or people would get tired of waiting and just leave.

martini

caesar salad

steak tartare

San Diego – 12/14/17 – Biga Wood Fired Dinner Series

A great introduction to Biga for dinner which was part of their wood fired series featuring guest chef Drew Bent soon to open Lola 55 in San Diego.  All very good and flavorful dishes with the bonus of a surprising dessert that I loved.  I look forwarding to visiting Lola 55 and have already made a return visit to Biga based on the great hospitality.

trio of tostadas
loca ceviche – pineapple, jicama, chipotle
beef tartare – papilla, avocado, leek
fried oyster – basil, tomato, serrano, lemon

beets, potatoes, wood fired octopus, smoked saffron aioli, pickled spring onion parsley

tamale of porchetta, mole manchamantes, pickled vegetables, coal roasted plantain

oak baked yams, charred marshmallow, horchata of allspice & sugarcane

Paris – 11/25/17 – Clamato, Little Red Door, and Balagan

Clamato

Septime’s little sister Clamato is another place where I could easily eat everyday.  Incredibly fresh fish, fantastic flavors and perhaps the best service that I had on this trip.

trout from banka, marinated vegetables & white cheese

cuttlefish, sesame and chili

baked scallops, lard and sauvignon

Little Red Door
Definitely go at opening to the Little Red Door.  What an incredibly cute bar and I absolutely loved the architecture based menu concept.

Balagan
With a fitting name meaning ‘beautiful mess’ in Hebrew, Balagan is certainly un-Parisian aside from being part of the Experimental Group.  While quite a scene, it is incredibly energetic and I couldn’t help but have an amazing time.  And the food was amazing…that pictured as well as a few extras that I didn’t photograph.

frenavon bread

beef tartare damascus, herbs, pepper coulis, tahini

beetroot salad, spinach, arugula, mangetout pea, peas, feta cheese

scallops

Paris – 11/24/17 – Buvette, Le Syndicat and Chez La Vieille

Buvette
I stopped at Buvette for some vegetables to offset the cheese I was eating for 3 meals per day.  They were delicious but the service was truly horrible to the point that I considered leaving before I had even ordered and again after I finished my glass of wine and couldn’t seem to get another.

Le Syndicat
I have had several disappointing experiences at places on the Worlds 50 Best Bars list but had a fantastic experience at Le Syndicat.  It looks like an abandoned storefront in a slightly sketchy neighborhood and you could easily walk by it.  Very cool menu, great drinks and service.  I can’t wait to return.


Biggie Smalls Door
Marc de Bourgogne, Cap Corse Mattei, liqueur de gentiane, et cordial de pamplemousse & d’aneth

Undergroni
Eau de vie de framboise, Cap Corse Mettei, vermouth rouge, et sucette maison au piton

Chez La Vieille
Thank you Daniel Rose for reopening this spot, staffing it with amazing people from Spring, and creating such a fantastic environment.  Perhaps the best time I have had at dinner while traveling and if I lived in Paris I would be here once a week.  I could easily eat poireaux vinaigrette every day of the week and this version was excellent.  But the chicken was quite possibly the best chicken I have had in my life.  Yes everything in Paris seems better, and the chickens are different, but I have thought about this so often since.

Poireaux vinaigrette

Poulet fermier et puree de pomme de terre

Comte

NYC – 11/11/17 – Momofuku Ko

Perhaps I avoid getting caught up on this blog because revisiting my favorite places in NYC just makes me too sad.  Yet another fantastic dinner at my favorite spot topped off by a perfect chocolate fernet dessert.

black bass, rye bonji, perilla

sea urchin, chickpea, hozon

ko egg, caviar

beef au poivre

razor clam, pineapple, basil

striped bass, eggplant, tomato

lamb, radish

foie gras, lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

cheesecake

foie gras, lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

chocolate, mint, fernet branca

NYC – 11/10/17 – Atoboy and Aviary

Atoboy
Yet another place that I have missed terribly since I moved.  So much so that I ate so quickly I forgot to photograph several dishes.

lotus root, dubu, seaweed, chili oil

beef tartare, nooruk, mustard green, myungran

sunchoke, oyster mushroom, black truffle, orange

octopus, kimchi, chorizo, parsley

Aviary
So much about the reviews is accurate and so much is not accurate at all.  I am certainly biased.  For me it will never be the same as Chicago, but the views sure do help compensate.

 
Up the Ice Ante – oat, marcona almond, white peach, horchata

Chicharron

Heart of Stone – pistachio, peach, fresno, lapsang, bourbon

Loaded to the Gunwalls – mace, pineapple, hazelnut, batavia arrack

NYC – 11/17 – Mondrian Hotel

The Mondrian recently opened before this stay and was still working out a few kinks. This room was definitely tiny. I loved the decor but it was very poorly designed for a trip that involved the need to work. There was no desk and only a small table however no outlet anywhere near the table and thus impossible to plug in my laptop. After a day of puzzling water in the bathroom I figured out that the toilet was leaking. And housekeeping neglected my room for an entire day. Despite these issues the staff was well intentioned and I actually booked a follow up visit (with different issues but promptly addressed).

Chicago – 11/4/17 – El Ideas

While I enjoyed my previous visit to El Ideas, the BYOB format in a very casual setting was perfect for a large group dinner.  This was such a fun evening and thank you to my dinner companions who took charge of wine pairings.

chanterelle, creme fraiche, pomegranate, trout roe

egg tart, caviar, sea urchin bottarga, finger lime

scallop, okra, sweet potato, haitian trinity

lobster, parsnip, apple, cornbread, thyme

french fries & ice cream, potato, leek, vanilla

pheasant, celeriac, truffle, lovage

oxtail, cabbage, maitake, parsley, mustard seed

pierogi, squash, black trumpet, sage, smoke

strip loin, bread pudding, quail egg, béarnaise

pavlova, plum, hibiscus, chocolate

quince, dulcey chocolate, olive oil, pistachio

Chicago – 11/3/17 – Somerset, Prairie School and Next

Somerset

I loved Somerset so much that I almost went back the next day and then was kicking myself for not doing so. I hope to check out dinner my next time in Chicago but this was pretty much what I wish I could have for lunch everyday. It makes me very happy to see the proliferation of great crudités. The tuna and sprouted grains salad was fantastic as was their take on the Tuxedo. After such a miserable experience at Devereaux the night before, the Boka group definitely redeemed themselves.

Tuxedo served with aged gouda


vegetable crudite

charred broccoli, garlic, almonds, crispy chicken skin, yogurt

seared tuna, sprouted grains yogurt, cucumber vinaigrette

Prairie School
The purpose of my first trip to Chicago was to visit Frank Lloyd Wright houses.  As I exhausted new places to visit, my focus turned to food and cocktails.  I can’t believe that nobody opened a bar with this concept sooner.  Obviously I was won over before I even got there.

Next
What a great opportunity to have dishes from so many amazing restaurants that I (and many other guests) may never have opportunity to visit as well as a few old favorites.  This was a great concept as it peaked my interest in some places I may not have ever had an interest in and challenged me to think about why I don’t like some places with great dishes that I loved having here.

Rose
rose, apple, pomegranate
Quique Dacosta/Alicante, Spain

Jerusalem Artichoke
walnut, rye
Geranium/Copenhagen, Denmark


An oyster’s frozen kiss
oyster, radish flower
Mugaritz/San Sebastian, Spain

Eggs benedict
caviar, asparagus, ham
Eleven Madison Park/New York, USA

Marine soil
sea urchin, jicama, surf clam
Centra/Lima, Peru

Squid
artichoke, bagna cauda, squid ink
Mirazur/Menton, France

King crab
beef gram, hen’s egg yolk, rose miso
Noma/Copenhagen, Denmark

Tartare
bison, sunchoke
Estela/New York, NY, USA

Badger flame beet
Blue Hill at Stone Barns/Pocantico Hills, USA

Caviar
vin jaune, egg yolk, button mushrooms
Septime/Paris, France

Riso cacio e pepe
parmigiano reggiano, burgundy truffle
Osteria Francescana/Modena, Italy

Dim sum
cau cau, dashi, potato
Maido/Miraflores, Peru

Langoustine
wasabi, mango, thai vinaigrette
Restaurant Tim Raue/Berlin, Germany

Monkfish
aubergine, fermented peppers
De Librije/Zwolle, Netherlands

“Vuelve a la Vida”
scallop, beef tongue, salsa bruja
Quintonil/Mexico City, Mexico

All parts of the pumpkin
the skin, the seeds, the flesh
Attica/Melbourne, Australia

Squab
parsnip, almond, lacender
Next/Chicago, USA

Memory
foie gras, black truffle, chives
Restaurant Andre/Singapore

Apples
chanterelles, granite
Relae/Copenhagen, Denmark

Chocolate
milk chocolate, blueberry, yogurt
Alinea/Chicago, USA

Chicago – 11/17 – Viceroy

I keep meaning to add some hotel reviews and for some reason I just keep skipping over them.  While hotels are certainly justified in doing it as I am sure people abuse it, this is the first time I had been asked for my AAA card in ages when checking in.  Of course I didn’t have my current card in my wallet and couldn’t remember my password for the mobile app.  I was told I had to come back with the information prior to checking out otherwise the rate wouldn’t be honored.  But when I went back the next day after sorting out my password situation to get a mobile version of my current card, the front desk agent looked completely surprised that I was offering this information.

The Viceroy has done a very good job in competing with the Thompson across the street (and winning).  I loved the decor, the chaise, the large desk, having a Nespresso, the large shower, and the long entryway.  Also a great touch that the closet opened on two sides, into the hallway and the bathroom.

Somerset restaurant on the ground floor from the Boka Group is so good that I almost went two days in a row (review in my next post).  Unfortunately Devereaux, the rooftop bar was a huge disappointment.  When I walked in, not only was I not greeted by the first 3 employees that crossed my path, but from the looks that they gave me I felt like I walked in 2 hours after closing wearing face paint.  I understand there is a seasonal pool and plastic glassware may make sense at certain times of day and the year.  But late in the evening, an expensive cocktail at a beautiful bar in a plastic glass is just tacky.  The bartender required me to give him my license even though I was staying at the hotel.  The bar was only about half full and wouldn’t it have just made more sense to ask for my room number and last name if they feared I was a flight risk?  When I closed out I was returned my license and only glanced at it and saw that it was from the correct state.  Probably an hour later when I was in bed, my room phone rang and it was the bartender who told me that he had given me the wrong license and tried to give another guest closing out my license, and the asked if I could come back up.  When my response to that was a clear no he came down with my license about 10 minutes later. Another 10 minutes and I would have been asleep with earplugs in and two people would have been without a license.

I would absolutely stay at the Viceroy again but definitely avoid the bar.