A bit surreal to actually make it here. Perfect in its simplicity and one of my favorite days of 2019.
Author Archives: Mary Lynne Kupchella
6/30/19 – San Sebastian – Martin Berasategui
A lovely first stop on another fabulous trip.
6/9/19 – Maras, Peru – MIL
A perfect birthday.
6/5/19 – Lima – Kjolle and Astrid & Gaston
I had no expectations and this ended up being my favorite meal in Lima. There are evident ties to Central downstairs but with more delicious dishes that I still think about.
Astrid & Gaston
Of course a must do when in Lima.
6/4/19 – Lima – Central
It now seems like a lifetime ago!
6/3/19 – Lima – La Mar and Maido
La Mar is one of those places that I could happily eat at every day. A perfect choice for the first meal when arriving in Lima.
Mashua, chicken liver, duck heart, chalaca
ahi negro chawanmushi
poda cebiche – sabandija cream, catch of the day, shallots, ahi limo, chulpi corn, nikkei leche de tigre sudado – catch of the day, sudado reduction, seaweed cuy-san – cauliflower cream, garlic and rocoto cream, torikara sauce, Pachacamac greens Nigiris gindara misoyaki – cod marinated in miso, crispy Bahuaja nuts, apple gel, Procon mushrooms powder Cabrito dumpling – baby lamb, beans foam, creole sauce with loche, northern style cilantro and chichi de hora sauce beef rostra rib 50 hours, native potato cream, crispy rice, cushuro
sea urchin rice – chiclayo rice, attic sea urchins, avocado cream, wan yi, baby corn theobroma cacao – granadilla with mandarin sorbet, mucilage foam, cacao nibs, lucuma ice cream, raspberries Theobroma bicolor – smoked ice cream made from macambo seeds with shoe, crunchy nibs, sugar coated macambo, camu camu, goldenberry and mucilage
5/26/19 – San Francisco – Angler
Yes it is expensive but everything I have had at Angler has been perfect as are service and the setting. If the world ever returns to normal I would so love to have a repeat of this meal.
Amberjack, cultured cabbage & pear
Parker House Rolls Sweet Chicory Caesar
Whole artichoke with swarnadwipa spices Hot fried quail Sundae
5/23/19 – Big Sur – Post Ranch Inn
I had wanted to visit Post Ranch Inn for quite a while and was so disappointed on this particular morning when I realized that the may gray was not going to burn off. However even without a sunset (which I hope to get back for some day) the view is amazing. And even when the fog rolled in limiting visibility to about a foot, the effect was still worth experiencing. View aside, this was a really great meal with impeccable hospitality. And I have been craving smelt ever since.
Morro bay oysters, rhubarb, sweet William, tarragon
beer battered smelt, anton’s borage, remoulade, meyer lemon
monterey abalone, post ranch mushrooms, fava bean, green garlic
romanesco cauliflower, nasturtium gremolata, meyer lemon confit, pine nut
farm egg, white anchovy, leeks, pencil asparagus
lone mountain wagyu beef ribeye, beets, spring onion, bone marrow jus
hazelnut & chocolate, hazelnut meringue, garden lemon curd
seared apricot, rosemary, buckwheat, local honey
4/10/19 – Ghent – Chambre Séparée
A fantastic ending to this trip and timely as Chambre Separee had a temporary existence.
4/9/19 – Antwerp – The Jane
The Jane is housed in a repurposed chapel of a military hospital which makes for stunning setting for this lover of architecture and food. The restaurant suffered a fire after I booked and was closed for several weeks. I was afraid that our reservation would be cancelled but the stars aligned. This lunch was delightful.
we got burnt
chu-torro, scrambled egg
sea urchin spaghetti
langoustine, quinoa, carrot, vadouvan
foie gras, rhubarb, hazelnut, nano-hoshiko
white asparagus from stephanie longiune, smoked eel, teardrop peas
perte blanche from bourcefranc-le-chapus, plankton, kaffir
pollock, grey north sea shrimp, chateau-halon
pollock, grey north sea shrimp, chateau-chalon
suffolk lamb, ramsons, morille, black truffle
pigeon from steenvoorde, cassis, bbq-cabbage
4/8/19 – Ghent, Belgium – Souvenir
4/7/19 – Belgium – Willem Hiele & Pure C
While it is a bit of a drive, Willem Hiele made for a perfect lunch stop. An adorable setting, lovely hosts, and delicious food.
I would love to return during the day or for an early dinner in summer to properly enjoy this seaside setting.
4/6/19 – Copenhagen – Noma, Iluka, & Barr
I’m not sure how my next visit will possibly top this one. However I said that the last 2 times! Lunch is definitely the best time to visit Noma 2.0.
We only had room for a few bites after Noma but they were great and I am looking forward to going back very soon.
langoustine and pink pepper
cured and smoked salmon
hart bakery bread & butter
lumpfish roe, grilled belgian waffle and soured cream
tartar – raw beef with damson and pickles
4/5/19 – Copenhagen – Kadeau
I absolutely loved Kadeau Bornhom but the stunning setting certainly adds to the overall experience. So I was a bit skeptical about how the city version would compare. It is equally lovely and certainly feels the same yet different. The menu is in danish and I am a bit too lazy to translate so I will let the photos speak for themselves.
3/23/19 – Chicago – Kumiko
Now one of my favorite places in Chicago. If you haven’t been, what are you waiting for?
eggplant – miso, lots of herbs and rice crackers
steam buns, berkshire pork belly, spicy pickles and an herb bouquet
tempura prawn – head mayonnaise, yuzu and mint
short rib – braised with pickled plum, puffed beef tendon and beef fat hollandaise
Loup de mer – grilled with bok choy, furikake and ponzu
japanese milk bread – fermented honey ice cream and perigord truffle
gianduja – crémeux with genmaicha, coconut and lime
3/22/19 – Chicago – Alinea
Oh Alinea it has been far too long. Still one of my absolute favorite places.
4/4/19 – Copenhagen – Manfred’s
Always the first stop when I come to Copenhagen,
beets, apple, skyr
warm grains & herbs
3/3/19 – NYC – Momofuku Noodle Bar
I love all things Momofuku!!
bigeye tuna crudo
roasted carrots, scallion, pumpkin seed
spicy oxtail, rice cakes, daikon, buttered rice
caramelized shiitake buns, hoisin, cucumber
2/28/19 – NYC – Leonti
Horribly I did not take a photo of the menu and months later my recollection of all ingredients of these dishes is sketchy, They were all delicious and we loved everything about Leonti. If I lived in this neighborhood you would find me at the bar at least once a week.
2/17/19 – Bogota – El Chato
I wish that I had come to El Chato more than once on this trip. Absolutely loved every dish and the atmosphere. If I lived in this neighborhood I would be a regular.
2/16/19 – Bogota – Leo
I am still a bit conflicted about Leo. This is a very interesting and educational experience and I would never otherwise have a chance to experience most of these ingredients and the beverages that were a part of the pairing. There was a table next to me that did not want to even try some of the more exotic ingredients and they missed out. However I didn’t find any of these dishes to be delicious and there was not one that I would choose to have again. And there was more than one that I really struggled with which rarely had happened to me. Perhaps go for the experience because it is one that you won’t otherwise have.
2/15/19 – Bogota – Villanos en Bermudas
A surprisingly completely excellent meal in Bogota. Forget Leo and go here.
12/29/18 – London – Noble Rot & Cora Pearl
- Noble Rot
Such a great spot that I wish was in my neighborhood.
- Cora Pearl
If you like Kitty Fisher’s you will love the team’s newer place Cora Pearl.
12/28/18 – London – Hoppers & Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
I think I will be visiting Hoppers on every trip to London going forward.
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
My absolute favorite in London.
12/27/18 – London – Cakes & Bubbles and Brat
- Cakes & Bubbles
Loved so much I almost went twice.
Unfortunately I now only remember what 2 of these dishes were however they were all fabulous. A must go in London.
- chopped egg salad with bottarga
12/13/18 – Washington, DC – minibar and barmini
Always a ton of fun and it had been too long since my last visit.
12/12/18 – Washington, DC – Officina
A solid new italian option in DC, although very loud.
carciofi – artichoke, white wine, nepitella, olive oil
All of the pasta!
costolette alla milanese
12/11/18 – Washington, DC – the Dabney
Always a favorite stop in DC!
grilled scallops – buttermilk consomme, country ham, turnips & cider
grilled brassicas – n’juba hollandaise, mint chimichurri & fried shallots
winter squash cooked in the fire – bitter greens, pecan, virginia maple & brown butter vinaigrette
11/23/18 – Milan – Carlo e Camilla
Carlo e Camilla has perhaps the coolest dining room I was in last year. The photos don’t really do the space justice so just go!
11/22/18 – Vienna – Amador
A lovely dinner in a very cool dining room. Very much worth the visit to the outer limits of Vienna. Congrats on the 3rd star!
11/21/18 – Vienna – Steiereck
While I am sure that the setting is more beautiful during the day, darkness did nothing to diminish this fantastic experience. It certainly should be much higher on the World’s 50 Best list. And for anybody who loves a cart, the bread, cheese and tea carts are not to be missed.
11/20/18 – Budapest – Onyx
Dinner at Onyx is a perfect 2 michelin star experience. Service was very welcoming and friendly despite the fairly formal space and all dishes quite good. The bread basket is perhaps the best one I’ve had and its truly a shame that I couldn’t put more of a dent in it. Definitely a do not miss when in Budapest.
water buffalo tartare, shallot, mushroom
goose liver, coffee, almond
catfish, bacon, fish soup
venison “montage,” duck ravioli, celeriac, chervil
turo rudi, forest fruits
11/19/18 – Budapest – Costes Downtown
I highly recommend this great spot in Budapest which is the sister restaurant to the original Costes.
scallop, pan fried, sweet potato, orange
jerusalem artichoke, soup, cheese mousse, walnut
venison, caramelized onion, truffle, potato
11/17/18 – Paris – Clown Bar and Chez la Vieille
Clown Bar is easily one of my favorite places in Paris and lately has been my first stop for lunch after arriving.
milk-fed veal tartare/paris mushroom
Chez la Vieille
Another of my absolute favorites. I would be quite happy eating here at least once a week. Always at the bar.
blanquette de veau
herring and potato salad
11/10/19 – Chicago – Smyth
Somehow I unfortunately misplaced the menu. However Smyth gets better and better with each visit. A definite must do in Chicago.
10/28/18 – NYC – Momofuku Ko
My favorite spot in NYC. Fabulous as always.
striped bass, mustard greens, rye bonji
lobster, blood orange, chili
beef au poivre
razor clam, pineapple, basil
tomato, broken rice, sea urchin
pork, shishito, cabbage
foie gras, lychee, pine nut, riesling
mandarin tarte tatin, cheese
10/25/18 – NYC – Atomix
I don’t think that I can add too much to all of the existing stellar reviews of Atomix. They are all spot on and so well deserved. Atomix is such a great addition to the NYC dining scene.
10/21/18 – Chicago – HaiSous
My absolute perfect kind of brunch with no traditional brunch foods.
fried shrimp wraps
lotus stem salad, pickled carrots and daikon
vietnamese omelette, papaya salad
grilled octopus and rice noodle salad, lettuce, herbs
10/6/18 – LA – Bavel & Simone
I can’t quite believe I haven’t been back yet. My only criticism is that these fantastic dishes that stood out to us on the menu collectively came with too much bread. If you haven’t been yet, a definite must-do in LA.
Josef – clove infused gin, apple brandy, almond, fennel, lemon
lamb tartare – burnt onion creme fraiche, pickled chive blossom, mint, cinnamon
grilled octopus – orange infused yogurt, sumac, dried bell pepper, sun golds, chervil
slow roasted lamb neck shawarma – tahini, pickled turnips, fermented cabbage, laffa
Simone was highly anticipated after a very delayed opening. But after being plagued by a host of ownership and management issues, and without food that compensated, it is now closed.
tomatoes, mustards, sorrel, whipped tahini
red lentil hummus, smashed cucumbers, nasturtium
pole beans, urfa chili creme fraiche, purple tomatillo, almond
ricotta gnudi, grated tomato, guanciale, basil
charred squash, nectarines macadamia salsa macha
hoja santa sturgeon, roasted corn, blistered shishitos
9/2/18 – Seoul – Soigne
The last dinner of a whirlwind trip to Seoul was really quite good. The theme of the menu was “Stamina Food” which reflects the Korean philosophy of food in the sense that it is not nearly a means of indulging in the pleasure of eating but as medicine for protecting and recovering one’s health. The very detailed dish descriptions provided described how each dish was chosen and how it was cooked. Very thoughtful even if too long to post here.
9/1/18 – Seoul – Mosu
In 2017 Sung Anh moved Mosu from San Francisco to Seoul. It is definitely Korea’s gain as this was an absolutely lovely dinner with fantastic service and delicious dishes, especially the abalone “taco.”
sea perch, white kelp, habanero
mackerel, pine cone, grilled carrot
black truffle, hog fennel, rice
short rib, shiitake, shaoxing wine
quail, ground cherry, pearl onion
black raspberry, kombu, almond
caramelized milk, amaranth, cognac
8/31/18 – Seoul – Toc Toc
A great first night in Seoul. Delicious dishes.