- Noble Rot
Such a great spot that I wish was in my neighborhood.
- Cora Pearl
If you like Kitty Fisher’s you will love the team’s newer place Cora Pearl.
Category Archives: London
12/28/18 – London – Hoppers & Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
Hoppers
I think I will be visiting Hoppers on every trip to London going forward.
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
My absolute favorite in London.
12/27/18 – London – Cakes & Bubbles and Brat
- Cakes & Bubbles
Loved so much I almost went twice.
- Brat
Unfortunately I now only remember what 2 of these dishes were however they were all fabulous. A must go in London.
- chopped egg salad with bottarga
soused scallops
London – 4/8/17 – Bao, Zetter Townhouse, Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
Bao
Upon the recommendation of a trusted friend I decided at the last minute to scrap my original lunch plan and check out Bao. I did have to wait in line (to be found across the street from the entrance) but it moved quickly. A solid tasty stop although not the best buns I have had. Service is extremely fast so if you don’t have to wait in line you can be in and out in under 30 min.
house pickles
Taiwanese fried chicken, hot sauce
baos – lamb shoulder and classic
Zetter Townhouse
Once again I was the only person at a bar mid afternoon in London. Loved the space and this drink was perfectly refreshing for the warm day.
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
It always seems to be the most difficult to write about the places I love. If I lived in London I would quickly become a regular. Yes the food is all fantastic with so many local ingredients and great accompanying stories. But KT excels at hospitality as well and the overall experience is so lovely that I will probably never go to London again without dining here. So many restaurants track a guest’s past reservations and various other details but never seem to do anything with the information. It so easy to just acknowledge that a guest has dined with you before and welcome them back (and bonus points for remembering the time frame). The crispy chicken skin was as delicious as I remembered (although I had a fix at at collaboration dinner not terribly long ago) as was the sloe gin.
raw hand dived scallop, ponzu, pickled seaweed
raw grey mullet, buttered miso infused with Meyer lemon, turnip, confit Meyer lemon skins, turnip tops, sliced fresh apple
crispy chicken skin, rosemary mascarpone, bacon jam
parkerhouse rolls, smoked and cured cod’s roe, dehydrated grated scallop roe, brown butter, fresh lemon zest
raw kale, sour cream and anchovy dressing, Meyer lemon puree, toasted sourdough breadcrumbs
steamed Cornish brill, roasted cauliflower florets, cauliflower puree and pickled cauliflower couscous, diced apple, mango puree, toasted peanuts, coriander stem, house made yoghurt, Moilee sauce, house made Goan curry powder
skate cooked in garlic cream, black garlic puree, wild garlic (wilted fresh, sauce, pickled stems, flowers)
in house made gnocchi, 36 month aged parmesan sauce, roasted chestnuts, perigord black truffle
24 hour cooked lamb belly, fresh mint sauce, English asparagus, Scottish morels, lemon thyme, lamb sauce
Saint Duthac blue cheese, crab-apple and rosehip jelly, caraway and fennel cracker
beetroot and brambly apple marmalade, sour cream ice cream, woodruff infused beetroot sauce, woodruff granite
rhubarb, hibiscus poached Yorkshire forced grown rhubarb, charred black pepper meringue, milk ice cream, poaching syrup
parsnip treacle tart, natural creme fraiche
caramel ‘ice cream cookie sandwich’
house made sloe gin
London – 4/7/17 – Kricket, the Connaught Bar & Kitty Fisher’s
Kricket
I absolutely loved this casual and stylish Indian spot in Soho. I was afraid there would be a line but arrived at opening and had no issues. The counter is definitely the place to sit as I ordered more food after seeing what was being plated for others that looked fantastic.
Lasooni scallop, goan sausage, poha, seaweed
kid goat raan
pumpkin, makhani sauce, fresh paneer, hazelnut crumble
Connaught Bar
At least I had a lot of luck with hotel bars on this trip. Connaught Bar is absolutely gorgeous and somehow I was the only person there mid-afternoon. I will be back for sure.
Kitty Fisher’s
Evidently Kitty Fisher’s was quite difficult to get into when it first opened but somehow seems to have slipped under the radar of most of my American friends. The space is incredibly comfortable and felt like it had been around for years. Very elevated ‘pub’ food and really a perfect low key evening.
perfect lady – gin, creme de peach, lemon & egg white
whipped cod’s roe on toast
leeks, smoked hollandaise, crispy chicken skin & hazelnuts
mackerel, heritage carrot, radish, piccalilli
London – 4/6/17 – Hoppers, American Bar, the Gibson, and Street XO
Hoppers
I generally quite detest the possibility of waiting in a line to get into a restaurant but will make somewhat of an exception if it suits my schedule to arrive 10-15 minutes prior to opening and be guaranteed the first seating. Most often this rules the spot out entirely but I am glad that I made the effort for Hoppers as soon as my flight landed. I have been missing out having never before tried a hopper – the Sri Lankan crepe of sorts made with a batter of fermented rice and coconut (enhanced further by an egg fried into the bottom). This will be at the top of my to-do list for my next trip to London. Delicious all around.
arrack attacked – arrack, lime, bitters, house ginger beer
hot butter devilled shrimps
egg hopper and lamb kari
American Bar at the Savoy
I wish I could remember what was in it, but months later of course I cannot. However this was the best cocktail I had on this particular trip made by an absolutely lovely bartender. American Bar ranked #2 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list for 2016 and is certainly worth a visit.
The Gibson
Unfortunately all ‘best’ lists end up filled with those places that deserve to be on the list and those that shouldn’t be there in any rational world. Somehow the Gibson ranks #6 on the same World’s Best Bars 0f 2016 list. Perhaps I would have fared better if I had kept to a classic Gibson. I think the photos pretty much speak for themselves as the fairly out-of-control garnishes completely destroyed the drinks as they fell in and changed the flavor and became a soggy mess. I did love the candy but it would have been better on the side!
garnishes
Street XO
I didn’t intend to plan such a theatrical evening but somehow it worked out that way. Everything about Street XO is a bit over-the-top from the uniforms to the plating. So much so that I almost expected to hate it but thought the flavors were quite good, even the unexpected combinations. I was seated overlooking the kitchen which is always the best spot. However the exhaust system was completely terrible (I’m not sure if this was the normal state or it was broken) and my eyes were burning and my clothing and hair reeked when I left. Nobody wants to add drycleaning to the dinner bill. It was fairly intolerable yet I did order an extra dish and suffered it out because I was enjoying the food so much.
grilled squid with green papaya, sour & spicy hibiscus dressing, peanuts, fine herbs and lime pesto with a shot of Thai Rebujito
Galician grilled octopus, tomatillo and green apple mole with creamy yuzu potato bonbons
Pekinese dumplings, strawberry hoisin, Ali-oli and pickles
London – 5/29/16 – Pidgin, Happiness Forgets, Nightjar and Chiltern Firehouse
Pidgin
It is difficult to find places in London, as in most European cities, open on a Sunday. So in a way I ended up at Pidgin by default but I am so glad that I did. Somewhat tucked out of the way in a residential neighborhood yet a very quick trip on the commuter rail line. Great service and an unexpectedly fantastic and refined menu. And how have I never had brown butter butter until now???
G&T – ELLC Batch No. 1 gin, Pidgin tonic, grapefruit, black pepper
Broad bean – goat curd, chilli crisp, grapefruit, lardo
Mussels – fries, brewer’s yeast, hops, fennel, sea vegetables
Chicken – miso, asparagus, burnt bread sauce, radish
Sweet cicely – strawberries, pine nut, sorrel
Happiness Forgets
I tried to come here my last trip in London but later in the evening it becomes very crowded. Early evening is the best time to come for a completely different neighborhood bar vibe but with drinks better than at any neighborhood bar.
Nightjar
I finally planned far enough ahead to make a reservation at Nightjar. A very cool space and drink menu. The reservation came with a time limit but when I was seated I was told that I could stay significantly longer before the next reservation. Unfortunately I planned dinner based on the originally quoted time. And while I certainly had time for at least two drinks my server disappeared.
Charlie Chaplin
Chiltern Firehouse
I liked Chiltern Firehouse much more than I was expecting mainly because places better known for celebrity clientele than a celebrity chef are typically mediocre. I wasn’t seated at the chef’s counter as requested but a corner of the regular bar which was actually fine. Service started out incredibly attentive but toward the tail end of dinner I sat without a drink for at least 30 minutes and despite my best efforts could not even make eye contact with a server to order another. The snacks were extremely tasty and it was a nice touch that they were brought out on the house for myself and for a couple beside me who were waiting at the bar for a while past their reservation time. I loved the smoky tartare, a twist that I’m surprised I haven’t seen before. Unfortunately I don’t remember what the desserts were but they were light and perfect for spring. Being made to exit out a back door into an alley was incredibly strange and inconvenient especially as I was in a hotel and my Uber was in front. Although perhaps I was supposed to feel like a celebrity!
Red Riding Crop – gin, Poire Williams, Pimms, cider, pink pepper & rosemary reduction
Mackerel tartare, squid ink cracker
Carrot blunts – smoked yoghurt, coriander
Steak tartare – pine nuts, chipotle & firehouse hot sauce
Maple glazed salmon – lovage, barbecued kohlrabi
London – 5/28/16 – Restaurant Story, 69 Colebrook and Sosharu
Restaurant Story
I am not sure that I can say enough good things about Restaurant Story. I had very much wanted to dine here on my last trip to London but unfortunately could not get a reservation. I am so glad that things worked out this time around and by the following day I was sorry that I had not just booked multiple reservations here. Every dish was absolutely delicious, as well as beautiful, with a perfect casual elegance. I started the meal with one of the best gin & tonic’s I have ever had and for which I have managed to find the proper brands to make it at home (Four Pillars gin & Jack Rudy tonic). The candle placed on the table was actually made of beef fat in which to dunk your bread. Absolutely brilliant. And the picnic cheese course was so inventive and adorable that it was almost impossible to contain a huge grin. And I should not fail to mention impeccable service and great beverage pairings (including the first Mead that I have actually liked). Thus far my most memorable meal of 2016.
Foreward – Snacks
Chapter I – Tomato
Vanilla
Chapter II – Childhood
Bread and dripping
Onion and gin
Heritage potato
Chapter III – Sea
Crab
Scallop
Chapter IV – Land
Herdwick lamb
Chapter V – The end
Picnic
Almond and dill
69 Colebrook
I ordered the Death in Venice not even realizing that I was seated below a poster advertising the same.
Sosharu
I have always had fantastic experiences at Jason Atherton restaurants and so was excited to try Sosharu as soon as it opened. Service started off exceedingly well and I received almost too much attention. However by the time I finished my first cocktail I languished for over 30 minutes not being able to summon a server to order another drink. The things I take for granted in NYC where alcohol sales are necessary to restaurant profits. The open temaki were wonderful and I almost wish I had just ordered a half dozen. A few of the other dishes unfortunately seemed to suffer from lack of seasoning.
Sashimi
Bream sashimi, shichimi crispy potato
Open temaki
Scallops, nori, sweet potato, white ponzu
Pale aubergine, crispy shallots, aka miso glaze, herb salad
NYC – 2/15/16 – Luskus (w/ Kitchen Table)
A terrible snowy night to trek to Brooklyn and on the walk from the subway I was wondering what the heck I was thinking. But I absolutely loved my visit to the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs last year and was quite excited for this collaboration dinner. Plus it has been far too long since I have been to Luskus. I could have eaten a complete meal of the chicken skin and was thrilled to have it again. It was an utter surprise that my favorite dish of the night was the one I thought I would hate – balsamic, truffle, artichoke. All individual components that I love, but cold the thought was immediately terrible. It somehow took me back many many years to when I first had the olive oil gelato at Otto. I would love to do this entire dinner over again.
beetroot, salsify, dulse
razor clam, blood orange, fennel
beef tartare, purple daikon, laver
chicken skin, rosemary mascarpone, bacon
sea scallop, ginger
Ryan and the Gosling – Evid Twin/Crooked Stave
shrimp, walnut, tarragon
Sasuga – Oxbow
roasted sunchoke, rye, dulse
sea bass, onion, nettle
squab, damson, hay, rye
lamb breast, salted plum, rutabaga
balsamic, truffle, artichoke
carrot, bay leaf, licorice
London – 10/4/14 – Hibiscus & the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
Hibiscus
Such an absolutely lovely dining room that I am still talking about it weeks later. Beautiful flower arrangements and colors of glassware and upholstery. If it wasn’t such a chilly, rainy, miserable day I’m not sure that I would would have enjoyed my specific menu selections quite as much. But this particular day it was perfect.
Pumpkin velouté, blue cheese royal, buttermilk
Veal cheeks, parsnip & truffle, sauce Veronique
Cheese!
the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
I had the first seating of the evening for the KT so as I was finishing my meal the other half of the counter was about midway through theirs. It was torture smelling some of their dishes being made for the second time of the evening because I was wishing that I could eat several again (Pigeon please!). I knew I was going to love this experience when I saw Chef Knappett’s wallpaper in the bathrooms earlier in the evening, custom made from his personal menu collection. I have an entire wall full of framed menus and wish I would have thought of wallpaper…just brilliant! And my Alinea loving heart loved seeing a piece of Crucial Detail across the pond.
Oyster
Shrimp
Chicken
Scallop
Trout
Cep
Pig
Pigeon
Clauson
Raspberry
Pear
Caramel
Clementine
Cider
Vanilla
London – 10/3/14 – Hedone and the Clove Club
Hedone
I am never late but nearly missed lunch due to an underground that never arrived. Luckily I evidently can navigate the system rather well and was only a few minutes late in the end. When dining alone there is is nothing I love more than a chef’s counter and an open kitchen to provide hours of entertainment. And nothing makes me feel better than when 5 out of 7 of those at the counter were solo diners. Such an absolutely lovely leisurely lunch that truly felt like a vacation day.
Canapés
Amuse bouche – I am so glad that for once I admitted that I am not the biggest oyster fan. The replacement smoked egg dish was outstanding (and I do love a good egg)!
Cevennes onion, pear shavings, sage
Liquid Parmesan ravioli, sweet onion consommé, mild horseradish, guanciale
Roasted loin of venison, radishes, plum, beetroot
Provence fresh figs, lemon and thyme
Warm chocolate, powdered raspberry, passion fruit jelly, Madagascar vanilla ice cream
The Clove Club
I read a few reviews of the Clove Club with quite negative comments about the space and decor. But I immediately loved everything about the furnishings, high ceilings, and especially my adorable marble topped table. Shoreditch Town Hall dates to the mid 1800’s and it just seemed to fit the building perfectly.
Selection of Snacks
Gilt head bream sashimi, mustard leaf, cobnuts & brown butter
An extra course
Hazel wood grilled squid, tarragon & radishes
Another extra!
Roast Speckle Faced lamb, Cherokee beans, Anthony & mint
Amalfi lemonade & Sarawak pepper
French figs & hazelnut ice cream
And the final bites…..love this!
London – 10/2/14 – Dabbous, Callooh Callay, Lyle’s
Dabbous
I had read quite a few mixed reviews of Dabbous, but there was enough good that when I could actually get a reservation I had to check it out. The tomato on toast was perfect. Such a great example of how the most simple dish, well executed with great ingredients can be the standout of the entire meal. I’m still a bit puzzled however by the acorn flour noodles. It tasted exactly like ramen noodles. I haven’t done enough research to determine if this was a deliberate haute version (in which case they nailed it) or was accidental.
Tomato on toast
Acorn flour noodles in a duck & fenugreek broth
Roast veal fillet with late summer vegetables & a light cheese broth
Warm fig & honey cake
Chilled rice milk infused with fig leaves
Callooh Cally
I stopped by Callooh Cally on my way to dinner and had two lovely cocktails and a lovely chat with the bartender about other cocktail spots in London. Loved the Oyster card menus.
Fernet Me Not
Lyle’s
I debated lunch vs dinner at Lyle’s but finally decided that sometimes not having to make decisions is a good thing and so went with the fixed dinner menu.
Snacks
I was in the middle of a book I have been trying to find the time to finish for weeks. It was historical fiction about WWII, had nothing to do with food or the sea. Yet oddly enough as soon as I finished the mackerel dish, I turned the page to find this line.
Beef Steak Mushroom, Egg & Onion
Squid & Tomato
Middle White, Pumpkin & Chestnuts
Pear, Wigmore & Walnuts
Elsie Plums & Vanilla Ice Cream
iwillmakeualist 