16 – Clocktower and Le Coucou

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Clocktower
It has been quite a while since I have dined at Clocktower so I was looking forward to the opportunity for a return visit. My last few times were for drinks only as there is no dining allowed at the bar (which I still do not understand). While the cherry tomato salad was very good, and I can’t believe I am about to complain about a portion size being too large, I was suffering from tomato fatigue by the time I finished. Of course avocado toast is overdone, but its so good when done well and I rarely have the willpower to pass it up on a menu. But in a city awash in much better versions, this one was anemic and overall quite sad. Thank god for the brittle and shortbread that appeared with the check. Two of my favorite sweets of all time.

Heirloom cherry tomato, Brooklyn burrata, sourdough, basil

Avocado on toast, poached eggs

Le Coucou
Le Coucou may very well be my favorite restaurant opening of 2016 thus far. Impeccable but incredibly friendly service. Gorgeous dining room. Properly spaced tables. Energetic yet you are easily able to carry on conversation without yelling or struggling to hear. Perhaps the first NY restaurant in ages that I would take my parents to. And really really great food. In a day of double Stephen Starr an experience worlds away from brunch. The rabbit could easily be for 2 and the proper cheese course impossible to turn down.

Salade de homard, sauce lauris
lobster tail, basil, tomato, sauce lauris

Quenelle de brochet, sauce americaine
pike quenelle, lobster sauce

Tout le lapin
all of the rabbit

Cheese (obviously)

7Jul2016

London – 5/28/16 – Restaurant Story, 69 Colebrook and Sosharu

Posted in London by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Restaurant Story
I am not sure that I can say enough good things about Restaurant Story. I had very much wanted to dine here on my last trip to London but unfortunately could not get a reservation. I am so glad that things worked out this time around and by the following day I was sorry that I had not just booked multiple reservations here. Every dish was absolutely delicious, as well as beautiful, with a perfect casual elegance. I started the meal with one of the best gin & tonic’s I have ever had and for which I have managed to find the proper brands to make it at home (Four Pillars gin & Jack Rudy tonic). The candle placed on the table was actually made of beef fat in which to dunk your bread. Absolutely brilliant. And the picnic cheese course was so inventive and adorable that it was almost impossible to contain a huge grin. And I should not fail to mention impeccable service and great beverage pairings (including the first Mead that I have actually liked). Thus far my most memorable meal of 2016.

Foreward – Snacks

Chapter I – Tomato
Vanilla
Chapter II – Childhood
Bread and dripping
Onion and gin
Heritage potato

Chapter III – Sea
Crab
ScallopChapter IV – Land
Herdwick lamb

Chapter V – The end
Picnic

Almond and dill

69 Colebrook
I ordered the Death in Venice not even realizing that I was seated below a poster advertising the same.

Sosharu
I have always had fantastic experiences at Jason Atherton restaurants and so was excited to try Sosharu as soon as it opened. Service started off exceedingly well and I received almost too much attention. However by the time I finished my first cocktail I languished for over 30 minutes not being able to summon a server to order another drink. The things I take for granted in NYC where alcohol sales are necessary to restaurant profits. The open temaki were wonderful and I almost wish I had just ordered a half dozen. A few of the other dishes unfortunately seemed to suffer from lack of seasoning.

Sashimi
Bream sashimi, shichimi crispy potato

Open temakiScallops, nori, sweet potato, white ponzu

Pale aubergine, crispy shallots, aka miso glaze, herb salad

22Jun2015

NYC – 5/23/15 – Clocktower

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’ve been a fan of Jason Atherton’s for quite a while and so was quite excited to try Clocktower soon after it opened. In general out-of-town chef’s who open restaurants in NYC when not living here just don’t make it and I’m usually not sad to see them go. But I certainly hope that Clocktower sticks around for a while. There were some service issues with the timing of courses but as I was there so soon after opening I forgive them! I’m generally not a fan of cocktails with savory components but these were some of the best that I have had and actually some of the best cocktails overall that I have had in NY in recent memory. While the starters and salad were great, and the cote de boeuf amazing, its oddly the green bean and foie gras salad that stole the show for me. A completely standout side dish that should be its own starter!

Los Pollos Hermanos – Del Maguey Vida mescal, Olmeca Altos blanco, herb infused agave, lemon juice, chicken stock, egg white
Give Peas a Chance – Beefeater gin, yellow Chartreuse, salted pea cordial, lemon juice, mint, Butterfly absinthe, egg white, flora

Warm white asparagus, slow-cooked egg, chicken thigh, chicken cornflakes

Roasted sea scallops, ragout of line caught squid, cepe, bacon, celery root puree

English breakfast radishes, salad leaves, cucumbers, feta and pistachio puree

40 day dry aged cote de boeuf 32 oz, green bean and foie gras salad, bone marrow jus, potato gratin

Strawberries and cream, vanilla custard, olive oil cake, verjus sorbet

Mignardises