NYC – 4/10/17 – Empellon Midtown

I still remember my first visit to Empellon Taqueria soon after it opened.  It was very quiet.  Just myself and a friend and a food blogger taking a lot of photos.  I continued to go back frequently as well as to Empellon Cocina.  The midtown Empellon is a fantastic next step once you get past the midtown location.  The chopped cabbage salad may be one of my absolute favorites of the year.

guacamole

king salmon ceviche with jicama and hibiscus broth

octopus tacos with celery and savory peanut butter

short rib confit with picadillo garnish

chopped cabbage salad with toasted fave bean dressing

NYC – 12/12/15 – Push Project – Empellon Cocina & Hoja Santa

I absolutely love the Push Project dinners and am lucky enough to have attended almost all of them. I knew this combination of Albert Adria, Paco Mendez and Alex Stupak would be fantastic and it certainly was.  Not to take anything away from the savory courses as it is impossible to even pick a favorite, but the desserts completely blew me away.  This was a fairly long menu but I would have gladly had seconds of each one.  I don’t even like tres leeches, but like so many things you just need to have an outstanding version to change your mind about a dish.  And the frozen corn….outstanding.

As with most Push Projects timing was all over the place with some courses coming out on top of each other and then long pauses.  But it is to be expected with this type of experience.  In a first for NYC dining in small spaces, one member of our group had an entire beer poured down her back but our server couldn’t have been more apologetic and even went out and bought her a rose at the end of our meal.  That is certainly hospitality.  I can’t wait to see what the next Push Project brings as this one will be difficult to top. And thank you for now using Tock for booking. Much appreciated as the system is amazing and past reservation experiences were very unpleasant.

 ALMEJAS DE SANGRE CON SANGRITA HIELO – Wellfleet Blood Clams with Frozen Sangria (HS)

ENCURTIDOS DE VERDURAS – Pickled Vegetables (HS)
 ACEITUNAS DE CANTINA – Cantina Olives (HS)
 JICARA DE ELOTE CON ACEITE DE QUELITES Y CHIPOTLE – Corn Jicara with Pipicha Oil and Chipotle (HS)
 HOJA SANTA CRUJIENTE – Crunchy Hoja Santa (HS)
 GAZPACHO DE AGUACATE – Avocado Gazpacho (HS)
 QUESADILLA DE TRUFA NEGRA – Black Truffle Quesadilla (HS)
 CEMITA DE MILANESA DE ABALONE – Mini Pueblan Style Sandwich with Fried Abalone (E)
 CEVICHE DE RECADO NEGRO – Ceviche Recado Negro Under a Frozen Pond (HS)

 CAMPECHANA – Mixed Seafood Cocktail with Spicy Ketchup (E)
 CEBOLLA X-NI-PEK – Red Onion X-Ni-Pek (HS)
 PIPIAN PAPANTECO CON LANGOSTA DE MAINE – Papantla Style Pipian with Maine Lobster (HS)
 COSTILLA DE CERDO CON ADOBO DE LA ABUELA FLOR – Pork Ribs in Grandma Flor’s Adobo (HS)
 MANCHAMANTELES – Mole with Sweet Potato and Fruit (E)
 TRES LECHES – Milk Soaked Sponge Cake with Kabocha Squash and Pecan Ice (E)
 MAIZ, CHOCOLATE, Y CAJETA – Corn, Chocolate, and Cajeta (HS)
 FLAN DE CHICORIA CON YEMA DE PATO – Chicory Flan with Duck Egg Yolk (E)
 SORBETE DE NARANJA CON SAL DE GUSANOS – Orange sorbet with Sal de Gusanos (E)


 

NYC – 11/13/14 – Push Project Part V – The Art of Masa w/ Rick Bayless

I have enjoyed every Push Project since Alex Stupak started them at Empellon Cocina. The basic idea is that every few months he will invite a guest chef to collaborate on a dinner that pushes them both outside of their boundaries. Unfortunately it has gotten much more difficult to score a reservation and sadly no preference seems to be given to past attendees. But luckily a friend had more success than I did and we finally made it off of the wait list. Rick Bayless is one my favorites and such an obvious choice for this series that I am surprised it didn’t happen earlier. I was slightly skeptical of a whole menu based on masa but I thoroughly enjoyed this entire dinner, perhaps most surprisingly the desserts. Although my favorite dish of the night might have been a component devoid of masa – the trout rillettes.
Being in November and a Chicago chef collaboration, I started reliving last year’s Thanksgiving Push Project with Chef Achatz. I tried to not make any comparisons as its not fair to compare two totally different experiences. But that was still hands down the best Push Project and now that a year has passed can I PLEASE have the recipe for the Kabocha Cornucopia?? And while I’m making requests how about a Tortas Frontera at EWR terminal C?

Heirloom masa crackers – smoked steelhead trout rillettes, trout roe guacamole
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Sand and Sea – fluke green ceviche (serrano, three herbs, two citrus), tortilla sand

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1491

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Enmoladas – tortillas enrobed in oaxacan green mole, steamed wild striped bass, white ayocote beans, chayote, herbs

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Mole Negro – roasted Elysian Fields lamb, oaxacan black mole (three chiles plus 28 other ingredients), camote mash, roasted eggplant, masa spaeztle

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Porridge – leftover tamales simmered in chicken broth, sherry vinaigrette, white truffles

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Guava Atole – guava-masa pudding cake, mexican guava, guava-atole ice cream, masa tuple

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Masa Sorbet – piloncillo, lychee crema, coffee

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