NYC – 12/7/16 – Momofuku Ko

Ko continues to be my favorite restaurant in New York and the one always at the top of my list of recommendations for foodie friends from out of town.  I have stopped including in this blog my many visits for the shorter bar menu otherwise you may tire of these posts, but this trip was for the full menu.  I am still trying to figure out why I like the sea urchin-chickpea dish so much considering I dislike urchin and have texture issues so that this dish on paper is something I wouldn’t even want to try.  After much contemplation I think that the olive oil is the magic component.  The ko egg will never ever get old.  Of the new-to-me dishes on this menu it was a tie for my favorite between the sweet potato-brown butter and beef-au poivre.  If you haven’t been yet, GO.

pomme souffle


lobster paloise

chicken oyster

blackfish – barrel aged bonji

sea urchin – chickpea, hozon

ko egg – caviar

sweet potato – brown butter

beef – au poivre

razor clam – pineapple, basil

bouillabaisse – potato, saffron

duck – squash



foie gras – lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

wild rice – kombu

melon – honey, mint
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NYC – 6/24/16 – Nomad Bar & Tuome

Nomad Bar

It wouldn’t be my birthday month without at least one Humm dog would it?

Tuome 
Very happy to put Tuome back on my radar after too many months.  The dishes that I have had before (Egg and Pig Out) are still outstanding and the watermelon salad had me at farro.

Egg – deviled, crispy, chili

Watermelon – ricotta, farro, chrysanthemum

Tartare – wagu beef, three hour yolk, lemongrass

Snow crab – noodle, summer squash, dashi butter

Pig Out – berkshire pork, spicy peanut noodle

And of course another birthday dessert

NYC – 2/2/16 – Oiji

This may be the year of beef tartare in NYC.  Oiji’s version definitely gives Wildair’s a run for its money.  Perhaps the most beautiful beef tartare I’ve had and I could have eaten two easily.  But as completely different I will refrain from picking a favorite.  While a heavily instagramed dish this year (and how I don’t know as the it was so dark), the “Chil-jeol-pan” unfortunately seemed a bit flavorless.  Perhaps a victim of the success of the tartare and extremely flavorful kimchi and mackerel.

Mother Flower – Hibiscus Hwayo 41, Cocchi Americano, Genepy, Chartreuse  Kimchi
 Beef Tartare with Ramp Aioli
 “Chil-jeol-pan” Seven Flavors
 Pine Leaves Smoked Mackerel with Citrus Soy

NYC – 12/12/15 – Push Project – Empellon Cocina & Hoja Santa

I absolutely love the Push Project dinners and am lucky enough to have attended almost all of them. I knew this combination of Albert Adria, Paco Mendez and Alex Stupak would be fantastic and it certainly was.  Not to take anything away from the savory courses as it is impossible to even pick a favorite, but the desserts completely blew me away.  This was a fairly long menu but I would have gladly had seconds of each one.  I don’t even like tres leeches, but like so many things you just need to have an outstanding version to change your mind about a dish.  And the frozen corn….outstanding.

As with most Push Projects timing was all over the place with some courses coming out on top of each other and then long pauses.  But it is to be expected with this type of experience.  In a first for NYC dining in small spaces, one member of our group had an entire beer poured down her back but our server couldn’t have been more apologetic and even went out and bought her a rose at the end of our meal.  That is certainly hospitality.  I can’t wait to see what the next Push Project brings as this one will be difficult to top. And thank you for now using Tock for booking. Much appreciated as the system is amazing and past reservation experiences were very unpleasant.

 ALMEJAS DE SANGRE CON SANGRITA HIELO – Wellfleet Blood Clams with Frozen Sangria (HS)

ENCURTIDOS DE VERDURAS – Pickled Vegetables (HS)
 ACEITUNAS DE CANTINA – Cantina Olives (HS)
 JICARA DE ELOTE CON ACEITE DE QUELITES Y CHIPOTLE – Corn Jicara with Pipicha Oil and Chipotle (HS)
 HOJA SANTA CRUJIENTE – Crunchy Hoja Santa (HS)
 GAZPACHO DE AGUACATE – Avocado Gazpacho (HS)
 QUESADILLA DE TRUFA NEGRA – Black Truffle Quesadilla (HS)
 CEMITA DE MILANESA DE ABALONE – Mini Pueblan Style Sandwich with Fried Abalone (E)
 CEVICHE DE RECADO NEGRO – Ceviche Recado Negro Under a Frozen Pond (HS)

 CAMPECHANA – Mixed Seafood Cocktail with Spicy Ketchup (E)
 CEBOLLA X-NI-PEK – Red Onion X-Ni-Pek (HS)
 PIPIAN PAPANTECO CON LANGOSTA DE MAINE – Papantla Style Pipian with Maine Lobster (HS)
 COSTILLA DE CERDO CON ADOBO DE LA ABUELA FLOR – Pork Ribs in Grandma Flor’s Adobo (HS)
 MANCHAMANTELES – Mole with Sweet Potato and Fruit (E)
 TRES LECHES – Milk Soaked Sponge Cake with Kabocha Squash and Pecan Ice (E)
 MAIZ, CHOCOLATE, Y CAJETA – Corn, Chocolate, and Cajeta (HS)
 FLAN DE CHICORIA CON YEMA DE PATO – Chicory Flan with Duck Egg Yolk (E)
 SORBETE DE NARANJA CON SAL DE GUSANOS – Orange sorbet with Sal de Gusanos (E)


 

NYC – 11/14/15 – Bruno

I went into Bruno frankly not expecting to like it very much.  I am very particular about pizza crust and from all accounts this wasn’t of the type that I favored.  Perhaps because I had such low expectations I actually did enjoy this pizza.  The toppings were delicious and while not my preference, the crust was a very good version of what it was aiming to be.  But reference to Bruno as a pizzeria is somewhat misleading in that it takes away from the rest of the menu.  And it was the other dishes that I was very impressed by.  On my next visit I will likely skip the pizza altogether as there are just too many other good dishes.  My only criticism is that the very bright lighting may be great for food photography but creates a very harsh ambience. And I must agree with Pete Wells that the seating is beyond uncomfortable.

Celery root – cured salmon, autumn olives, lovage, skyr, rye Duck liver mousse – quinoa, quince, kamut crackers

‘Nduja pizza – spicy pork, cauliflower, Dorset, tomato
 Local squid – hatch chile, charred onion, wild sumac

NYC – 6/3/15 – Empellon Cocina

Since it opened this has always been one of my go to places on the short list of restaurants that I visit repeatedly. I was very curious to see what the remodel looked like in person. Waiting at the bar for my guest to arrive, it honestly just felt really weird because the old bar was so unique and I felt like I was somewhere else completely. But oddly mid way through dinner all felt right again.  I loved the concept, and taste of the deviled egg filling, but felt a bit like it was odd to just eat on its own because of the texture and resorted to spreading some on the chips that came with the guacamole.  The sliced mango was outstanding as was the ceviche.  The last time I had friend smelt was at Alinea so I had high hopes for these tacos and I could have eaten at least two more.  A definite must order!  Loved both of the desserts but unfortunately didn’t write down the descriptions.  I’m looking forward to returning for the kitchen table and the pan-roasted lobster because when the table beside us got it we immediately regretted not doing so.

Pan-Galactic – Pandan-infused rum, oloroso sherry, lemon juice and egg white

Guacamole with pistachios

Deviled egg filling with trout roe

Sliced mango with perky toe crab, chile powder and lime

Ceviche of the day

Fried Maine smelts with cabbage and jalapeño relish

Shredded chicken with yucatecan pipian and toasted pumpkin seeds


NYC – 4/12/15 – King Bee

I typically try to avoid the first day of anything to allow a restaurant some time to get the kinks out.  But if I hadn’t known, I wouldn’t have guessed that this was the first brunch service at King Bee.  We weren’t crazy about the pork cracklins I have to admit.  But foie makes everything better!

Pork cracklins, peanut, caramel, malt vinegar powder  
Brûléed bread pudding, foie gras, rhubarb, cheddar, maple syrup

Mushroom buckwheat crepe galette, maitake, trumpet royal, shiitake, rucola, spring onion confit, egg

Farro salad

Louisiana crawfish roll

NYC – 11/19/14 – Tuome

Yet another fantastic new addition to the east village. The unfortunate downside is that it is so far east that in the dead of winter it will require an enormous amount of willpower to make the trek. However thoughts of the Pig Out will lure me back. Yes the name may be a bit gimmicky, and I wish there was a portion for 1, but it was certainly delicious and lived up to my high expectations from the early reviews. Tuome somehow feels like a perfect fit for the east village yet too refined and complex for the location at the same time.

Amuse

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Egg – deviled, crispy, chili

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Oxtail – spring roll, bone marrow, cumin

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Octopus – pork xo, brown butter, fingerling potato

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Pig Out (for two) – Berkshire pork, spicy peanut noodle

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Brussels sprouts – grape, pork xo, raisin

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