NYC – 9/9/15 – Eleven Madison Park

For many years EMP was one of my favorite places in New York.  Back when the menu was a la carte I enjoyed many lunches there as it was possible to just pop out of work for a relatively quick meal (and yes using “back when” makes me feel 20 years older than I actually am). I had taken a bit of a break from it recently as it seemed to have become a bit too kitschy.  But as reviews and rankings seemed to only get better I kept wondering if I was missing out. And so I made an impromptu visit to the lounge earlier this summer where unfortunately I had a very disappointing experience, i.e. the sort that would make me completely write off most other places. But in this case it just made me sad as I had so many great memories here.

So I gave it another shot, in the dining room this time, where happily the experience was completely different.  Service was impeccable. Actually improved from previous dinners where I had some nitpicky comments.  The caviar course was a standout for me and I wish I had taken a second photo when I found the egg underneath. Yes an egg makes everything even better in my opinion.  And while the lobster boil could have bordered on gimmicky, I love presentations that show a more formal restaurant isn’t taking itself too seriously.  My other favorite had to be the farmer’s cheese sundae as I loved the concept and its one I have not seen before (plus somehow the older I’ve gotten the more I’d rather have cheese than a traditional dessert). And I hope the tonging tradition makes more of a comeback as this was very cool to finally see in person.

Lately I always seem to be a bit ‘down’ on NYC dining and feel that I have far better experiences when I am traveling, especially in hospitality.  But thank you Will Guidara for exhibiting what hospitality should be at this level.  It is rare that my expectations are exceeded and you certainly did so.

(….and very proud of myself that I got a perfect score on “Name That Milk.”)

Cheddar – Savory Black & White Cookie with Apple

Tuna – Marinated with Cucumber

 Eggplant – Slow-Cooked with Shelling Beans and Mint
 Squid – Poached with Peppers and Artichoke
 Tomato – Salad with Basil and Red Onion
 Caviar  – Benedict with Egg, Corn and Ham
 bread
 Foie Gras – Seared with Plum and Thyme
 Lobster – Boil with Clams, Shrimp and Beans


 Tonging Sunflower – Braised with Green Tomato and Sunflower Sprouts
 Duck – Roasted with Lavender, Honey, Apricots, and Fennel

 Farmer’s Cheese – Sundae with Honey, Grape, Sorrel, and Oats

 Whey – Sorbet with Caramelized Milk and Yogurt

 Berry – Cheesecake with White Currant Sorbet and Raspberry Vinegar
 Chocolate – “Name That Milk”

 Snowcones in the Kitchen

NYC – 7/5/15 – Marea and Eleven Madison Park

Marea
I swore that I would order something other than the fusilli on my next visit but then I just couldn’t make myself. I did try the other pastas ordered at the table and of course they were all fantastic. Someday I swear I will deviate!

Seppia – cuttlefish tagliatelle, soffrito crudo, bottarga di muggine  
Polipo – griddle octopus, smoked potatoes, pickled red onion, radish, chilies, tonnato  
Fusilli – durum wheat pasta, red wine braised octopus, bone marrow  
Tortelli – potato and ramp ravioli, soppressata, peas  
Garganelli – tuna ragu, guanciale, broccoli rabe pesto  
Tagliolini – Manila clams, calamari, white wine, hot chilis   

  

Lounge at EMP
I have been meaning to plan a return visit to EMP for quite some time. But with every new accolade it receives, I seem to become less interested as I don’t think it lives up to the hype. While the voting system of the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants is questionable at best, and I want US restaurants to do well, when EMP ranked at #5 this year it seemed a bit of a joke. So hoping that the experience would make me realize I had it all wrong we decided to stop in the lounge for a light dinner.

There seem to be dozens of servers at EMP and while I don’t know what the actual ratio is to diners, my perception is always at least 2:1. When you scan the dining room (still my favorite in NY) they seemed to be lined up around the perimeter just waiting for something to happen. So it was entirely unexplainable that we sat in the lounge for going on 10 minutes without anybody coming over and thus had no menus. One member of our group ordered a wine by the glass that was entirely too warm, and while she probably should have declined it when she was poured a small taste, shouldn’t a restaurant of this caliber serve wine at the correct temperature? Then several accompaniments arrived with the cheese but none were explained and we were left wondering if they really were meant for the cheese or for the foie. And the foie in no way compared to the one had a day prior at Per Se. Many of these things I would overlook elsewhere but at this level I admittedly nitpick because I have much higher expectations. And while we were in the lounge, I expect the service to be equal to that in the dining room. This is the 5th best restaurant in the world? Definitely not.

 
Marinated Foie Gras with Chamomile, Orange Blossom and White Asparagus  Butter Poached Lobster with Dandelion and Ginger  Selection of Local Cheeses with Rhubarb Jam and Sorrel Relish