Paris – 11/24/17 – Buvette, Le Syndicat and Chez La Vieille

Buvette
I stopped at Buvette for some vegetables to offset the cheese I was eating for 3 meals per day.  They were delicious but the service was truly horrible to the point that I considered leaving before I had even ordered and again after I finished my glass of wine and couldn’t seem to get another.

Le Syndicat
I have had several disappointing experiences at places on the Worlds 50 Best Bars list but had a fantastic experience at Le Syndicat.  It looks like an abandoned storefront in a slightly sketchy neighborhood and you could easily walk by it.  Very cool menu, great drinks and service.  I can’t wait to return.


Biggie Smalls Door
Marc de Bourgogne, Cap Corse Mattei, liqueur de gentiane, et cordial de pamplemousse & d’aneth

Undergroni
Eau de vie de framboise, Cap Corse Mettei, vermouth rouge, et sucette maison au piton

Chez La Vieille
Thank you Daniel Rose for reopening this spot, staffing it with amazing people from Spring, and creating such a fantastic environment.  Perhaps the best time I have had at dinner while traveling and if I lived in Paris I would be here once a week.  I could easily eat poireaux vinaigrette every day of the week and this version was excellent.  But the chicken was quite possibly the best chicken I have had in my life.  Yes everything in Paris seems better, and the chickens are different, but I have thought about this so often since.

Poireaux vinaigrette

Poulet fermier et puree de pomme de terre

Comte

Copenhagen – 8/28/15 – Sollerod Kro and Relae

Sollerod Kro
Restaurants aside, the only thing I absolutely had to do on this trip was visit the Louisiana museum which is a short train ride north of Copenhagen.  It was well worth the excursion and made an absolutely perfect day trip when combined with lunch at Sollerod Kro which is on the way back into the city.  Its website says that the setting is idyllic but I’m not even sure that adjective does it justice.  The setting is straight out of a movie and reason enough to visit.  We enjoyed an absolutely lovely meal outdoors despite the rain.  I’m still not sure how the servers with umbrellas managed to keep all of our dishes dry.   Jan Restorff you are an amazing host and I could spend hours picking your brain about restaurants!  It is always such a joy to find people like you who are so passionate about food for your own enjoyment and not just professionally.

Cauliflower parmesan lemon
Crispy potato turnip asparagus
Apple marinated with lemon verbena

Sollerod caviar “en surprise”

Langoustine, almond, olives nicoise  Turbot, salad, mussel
 Lobster, walnuts, smoke

 Foie gras, parsley, garlic
 Guinea fowl, morels, asparagus

 Raspberries, peach, vanilla
 Mignardises


Relae
After a long day out of the city and a late lunch we somehow had made the perfect dinner choice with perhaps the most casual of the week.  There were so many things I loved about this experience from our fantastic view of the open kitchen, to the very entertaining bathroom art, to the cutlery drawers, to the people who work here.  The additional cheese course is probably my favorite ever and it just now occurred to me that I didn’t even offer to share with any of my dining companions who had not ordered it as well.

Celeriac, black olives and seaweed
 Mackerel, cauliflower and bergamot
 abcd
Sunflower seeds, nettles and truffle
 Carrots, sol and black currants
 Sodam chicken, cabbage and lovage
 Cheese
 Fermented milk, raspberry and rapeseeds