I loved the location of the Fiskebar in what is the meatpacking district of Copenhagen. It was bustling yet felt off the beaten path and was an excellent spot for an outdoor lunch. Far far more refined food than you would ever expect from the location at first glance. And while the food was outstanding, in American terminology, a perfect Sunday funday spot.
Cod tartar – rye emulsion, capers, dill and burnt onion
Plaice – peas, morels, bone marrow and tarragon
3 Nordic cheeses
I definitely felt that I qualified as a local having biked to dinner in 6 inch heels. How I made it back to my hotel after wine pairings I have no idea. This was an absolutely perfect meal to end my trip. Once again it was amazing to see so many ingredients repeated yet done in such different ways. For example I had already had several courses of mackerel in the previous days, but I certainly didn’t have to cut any out of branches and eat as finger food. Nor did I have to break a potato out of a plaster cast with a stick. And while I had plenty of onions, none had merited a table side presentation. The baked onion course perhaps illustrated one of the many things I loved about Copenhagen. An onion is rarely the star of the show, often a forgotten but necessary ingredient in many recipes. But done right, it can be a star all by itself. Perhaps my most memorable dish of the meal, and one of the most memorable of the entire week was the extra aged steak course. Umami to the millionth degree.
Razor clam, Apple, kale & parsley
Mackerel, vendace roe, hazelnut & sea buckthorn
Baked onion, elderflower & caviar
Turbot, lard & turbot roe
Grilled greens, veal sweetbreads & stinging nettle pure
Dry aged beef, caviar, mushrooms
Pigeon breast, cherries, sorrel & smoked marrow
Gooseberries, woodruff & pine
Blueberries, sheep yoghurt and thyme
Burned Jerusalem artichoke, walnuts & sugar beet syrup
Tea and mignardises
Restaurants aside, the only thing I absolutely had to do on this trip was visit the Louisiana museum which is a short train ride north of Copenhagen. It was well worth the excursion and made an absolutely perfect day trip when combined with lunch at Sollerod Kro which is on the way back into the city. Its website says that the setting is idyllic but I’m not even sure that adjective does it justice. The setting is straight out of a movie and reason enough to visit. We enjoyed an absolutely lovely meal outdoors despite the rain. I’m still not sure how the servers with umbrellas managed to keep all of our dishes dry. Jan Restorff you are an amazing host and I could spend hours picking your brain about restaurants! It is always such a joy to find people like you who are so passionate about food for your own enjoyment and not just professionally.
Cauliflower parmesan lemon
Crispy potato turnip asparagus
Apple marinated with lemon verbena
Sollerod caviar “en surprise”
Langoustine, almond, olives nicoise Turbot, salad, mussel
Lobster, walnuts, smoke
Foie gras, parsley, garlic
Guinea fowl, morels, asparagus
Raspberries, peach, vanilla
After a long day out of the city and a late lunch we somehow had made the perfect dinner choice with perhaps the most casual of the week. There were so many things I loved about this experience from our fantastic view of the open kitchen, to the very entertaining bathroom art, to the cutlery drawers, to the people who work here. The additional cheese course is probably my favorite ever and it just now occurred to me that I didn’t even offer to share with any of my dining companions who had not ordered it as well.
Celeriac, black olives and seaweed
Mackerel, cauliflower and bergamot
Sunflower seeds, nettles and truffle
Carrots, sol and black currants
Sodam chicken, cabbage and lovage
Fermented milk, raspberry and rapeseeds