Chicago – 12/5/14 – Dove’s Luncheonette, The Drawing Room, Parachute, and Aviary

Dove’s Luncheonette
I had wanted to visit Dove’s on my previous trip to Chicago but for some reason never made it and had regretted it. So it was the first stop for this trip. This corner of Wicker Park certainly now has a lot of great dining options. I was very curious to see how the Pozole would compare to the XOCO one that I love, and was happy to see that it was very different, and so there was no need to even draw comparisons and I could just enjoy!

Apple celery salad

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0193.jpg
Back to Life Cocktail

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0194.jpg
Chili con carne

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0196.jpg
Pozole rojo

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0195.jpg

The Drawing Room
I have no idea how this was my first and only visit to the Drawing Room as it is imminently closing. No definitely regret it, especially as it’s only a few steps away from the Thompson where I often stay.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0197.jpg

Parachute
Thankfully Parachute began taking limited reservations.

White beets, umbeoshi, cashew, cocoa nibs

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0198.jpg
Baked potato bing bread, bacon, scallion, sour cream butter

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0199.jpg
Cured cobia, mandarin, green radish, Korean chili

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0200.jpg
Pork belly and mung bean pancake, kimchi, black garlic, hen egg, pineapple

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0201.jpg
Smokey thick cut kalbi, honey, crispy shallots, shoos

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0202.jpg
Hand torn noodle, spicy lamb soffits, Sichuan peppercorn, cumin

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0203.jpg
Almond shortbread bittersweet chocolate, persimmon, chestnut mousse

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0205.jpg

Aviary
Organized Chios – Rosemary, chartreuse, Armagnac, mastic

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0206.jpg
O’Doyle Rules – fried banana, clarified banana, curry, rum, cognac

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0207.jpg
Hay is for Horses – maple, gin, grapefruit, rose, horseradish

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0208.jpg
Death Row – shaken, stirred and brewed last words

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0209.jpg
BTE

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2015/01/img_0210.jpg

Amsterdam – 11/29/14 – Tales & Spirits and Cafe Modern

Tales & Spirits
Very happy to find even more great cocktails in Amsterdam! Another very cute spot off of a small side street. Be warned the small bar portion is first come, first served with the remainder of the space reserved for dinner bookings. A very creative menu and I wish I could have tried more cocktails just to see what the presentations were. Next trip!

Quiz Fizz – Tanqueray gin, Luxardo maraschino, lime juice, vanilla syrup, egg white, Bittermen’s grapefruit bitters, Fever tree elderflower tonic

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0183.jpg
Bird is the Word – Bacardi 8 rum, yellow chartreuse, St. Germain, lime juice, egg white (At least I hope I got this right a month later as I didn’t actually order but let my server do so for me!)

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0184.jpg
My favorite page from the menu –

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0191.jpg

Cafe Modern
The trip to Cafe Modern involved a short ferry ride from behind the train station and a rather desolate 15 minute walk during which I checked my phone 10 times to make sure I was headed in the correct direction. Amazingly I arrived in time for my reservation. Such a lively bustling dining room and while I was the only person dining alone and I would guess likely the only tourist, I was made to feel incredibly welcome. The set menu was in Dutch, so no descriptions below. My lovely server did translate but I would have been happy to just see what appeared. Again an incredible value for the quality of food at only €40 plus an €11 supplement for the cheese course.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0185.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0186.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0187.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0188.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0189.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0190.jpg

Amsterdam – 11/28/14 – Restaurant As, Hiding in Plain Sight, and Gebr. Hartering

Restaurant As
Restaurant As is located slightly outside of the city center, easy enough to get to via tram, but far enough that I was left wondering if I was headed in the right direction when I started down a fairly desolate path into a park. The restaurant occupies a former church from the ’60s in a circular shape with communal tables arranged as spokes from the center. The kitchen is outdoors, where much of the activity is in summer, but it does result in a rather drafty winter space. Unfortunately I again didn’t write down the dishes, and they change daily. But the salad was lovely and vibrant and the pasta perfect for the chilly day.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0151.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0172.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0153.jpg

Hiding in Plain Sight
What luck to find fantastic cocktails just a few doors down from my planned dinner reservation. The space is charming, the staff all lovely and the type of place where I would be a regular if I lived in the neighborhood.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0158.jpg
Domfrontais Sour – Domfrontais Calvados, Pear Eau de Vie, Apple, Pear, Anis Syrup, Lemon Juice

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0157.jpg
Plum-Rye Fix – Bulleit Rye infused with Plum, Plum Vinegar, Ginger Syrup, Lemon Juice, Peach Bitters

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0176.jpg

Gebr. Hartering
I paid attention to the menu only for long enough to choose between the 6 or 9 course options. When a meal involves a flight, I tend to adhere to the ‘go big or go home’ philosophy. I still cannot get over want a value this dinner was at €75 for the 9 courses. Fortunately most are self-explanatory as I yet again forgot to write down all courses.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0161.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0162.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0163.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0164.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0177.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0166.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0167.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0179.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0169.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0180.jpg

Amsterdam – 11/27/14 – Restaurant Anna & Door 74

Restaurant Anna
I was somewhat skeptical of Restaurant Anna as soon as I realized that it was located in the very touristy part of the city. Generally I avoid eating in these areas no matter where I am. However once inside the tourists seemed far away and the space was much more warm and inviting than it appeared in pictures. An absolutely lovely meal and great start to this trip.

Snacks

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0146.jpg
Bitterballen amuse

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0147.jpg
Salmon marinated in limoncello and sea salt with compote of celery and ginger, froth of lemongrass, Dutch shrimps and crunch of peanuts, coconut and curry

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0148.jpg
Roast venison with jam of red cabbage, mashed potatoes, mushrooms and sauce P.X. Sherry

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0149.jpg
I also had a great dessert which I evidently dug right into before taking a picture.
Apple taste tatin with caramel sauce, almond and Tahiti vanilla ice cream

Door 74
As the day went on and I didn’t get a response to my reservation request I was getting a bit nervous that I wouldn’t get in. But I finally heard back and set off to try to find the unmarked entrance to Door 74. I was actually stumped for a few minutes even though I should be an expert in this by now. Definitely the coolest menu I have seen in a while, continuing the space theme throughout. But the only photo that turned out as the space was incredibly dark.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0053.jpg

NYC – 11/20/14 – Osteria Morini

There is no better way to begin dinner than to be asked if its ok if the chef just cooks for you. And its even better when you are presented with a large menu but are too involved in conversation to even look at it. For this reason I don’t have descriptions of a few dishes as they were off menu. For those I do know, in the spirit of the evening I’m not going to label them either. Sure I could have taken notes when the servers presented dishes, and perhaps that would have been the responsible thing to do in order to keep up with this blog. But for once it was lovely just to enjoy dinner and the company without such distractions.

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0134.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0136.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0137.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0140.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0141.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0142.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0143.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0145.jpg

NYC – 11/19/14 – Tuome

Yet another fantastic new addition to the east village. The unfortunate downside is that it is so far east that in the dead of winter it will require an enormous amount of willpower to make the trek. However thoughts of the Pig Out will lure me back. Yes the name may be a bit gimmicky, and I wish there was a portion for 1, but it was certainly delicious and lived up to my high expectations from the early reviews. Tuome somehow feels like a perfect fit for the east village yet too refined and complex for the location at the same time.

Amuse

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0109.jpg
Egg – deviled, crispy, chili

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0113.jpg
Oxtail – spring roll, bone marrow, cumin

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0115.jpg
Octopus – pork xo, brown butter, fingerling potato

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0119.jpg
Pig Out (for two) – Berkshire pork, spicy peanut noodle

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0122.jpg

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0125.jpg
Brussels sprouts – grape, pork xo, raisin

/home/wpcom/public_html/wp-content/blogs.dir/7fa/65901614/files/2014/12/img_0128.jpg

NYC – 11/16/14 – Root & Bone

I enjoyed Root & Bone so much for dinner that I had to return for brunch when it was finally added. The menu contains quite a few items from the dinner menu but there are some new ones as well. Be prepared for a lengthy wait despite how quickly they turn tables.

Marquee – gin, honeydew, lemon, sparkling wine & absinthe rinse
Applejack smash – applejack, maple syrup, muddled lemon, mint & peychaud’s bitters
IMG_0103.JPG
Drunken deviled eggs

IMG_0102.JPG
Rainbow beets & other roots salad – ricotta creme, citrus, tart apple, watercress & smokey candied pecans

IMG_0104.JPG
Bird – sweet tea brined, lemon dusted, spiked Tabasco honey

IMG_0105.JPG
Braised short rib meatloaf & eggs – parsnip root mash, slow poached eggs, horseradish, tomato ketchup jam

IMG_0106.JPG
Sticky toffee pudding

IMG_0107.JPG

NYC – 11/14/14 – Little Park

I try to shy away from visiting restaurants right after opening preferring that they work out the kinks on somebody other than me. And more often than not I’ve been burned when deviating from this rule. However I found myself in the neighborhood of Little Park during its opening week so decided I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. After admittedly being disappointed by Andrew Carmellini’s Lafayette I am happy to say that experience has been wiped from my memory. Everything we tried was delicious and some of the plating, such as the butternut squash, is much more refined than I was expecting. And the fall sundae is even better than it sounds. I will definitely be going back for that before the season is over.

Apple buck – James Oliver rye, Strega, lemon, red jacket orchards Apple cider, dandelion & burdock bitters, fever tree ginger beer

IMG_0060.JPG
Crispy Brussels sprouts – smoked parsnip, apple
IMG_0054.JPG
Endive – pear, walnut, sheep cheese

IMG_0056.JPG
Butternut squash – burrata, nasturtium

IMG_0063.JPG
Roasted sunchokes – hazelnut, black trumpet

IMG_0065.JPG
Whole wheat spaghetti – pork, cabbage

IMG_0068.JPG
Fall sundae of Apple & beer

IMG_0072.JPG

NYC – 11/13/14 – Push Project Part V – The Art of Masa w/ Rick Bayless

I have enjoyed every Push Project since Alex Stupak started them at Empellon Cocina. The basic idea is that every few months he will invite a guest chef to collaborate on a dinner that pushes them both outside of their boundaries. Unfortunately it has gotten much more difficult to score a reservation and sadly no preference seems to be given to past attendees. But luckily a friend had more success than I did and we finally made it off of the wait list. Rick Bayless is one my favorites and such an obvious choice for this series that I am surprised it didn’t happen earlier. I was slightly skeptical of a whole menu based on masa but I thoroughly enjoyed this entire dinner, perhaps most surprisingly the desserts. Although my favorite dish of the night might have been a component devoid of masa – the trout rillettes.
Being in November and a Chicago chef collaboration, I started reliving last year’s Thanksgiving Push Project with Chef Achatz. I tried to not make any comparisons as its not fair to compare two totally different experiences. But that was still hands down the best Push Project and now that a year has passed can I PLEASE have the recipe for the Kabocha Cornucopia?? And while I’m making requests how about a Tortas Frontera at EWR terminal C?

Heirloom masa crackers – smoked steelhead trout rillettes, trout roe guacamole
IMG_4306.JPG
Sand and Sea – fluke green ceviche (serrano, three herbs, two citrus), tortilla sand

IMG_4313.JPG
1491

IMG_4294.JPG
Enmoladas – tortillas enrobed in oaxacan green mole, steamed wild striped bass, white ayocote beans, chayote, herbs

IMG_4305.JPG
Mole Negro – roasted Elysian Fields lamb, oaxacan black mole (three chiles plus 28 other ingredients), camote mash, roasted eggplant, masa spaeztle

IMG_0097.JPG
Porridge – leftover tamales simmered in chicken broth, sherry vinaigrette, white truffles

IMG_0098.JPG
Guava Atole – guava-masa pudding cake, mexican guava, guava-atole ice cream, masa tuple

IMG_0099.JPG
Masa Sorbet – piloncillo, lychee crema, coffee

IMG_0101.JPG

NYC – 11/10/14 – Tertulia

Revisiting another old favorite that I haven’t been to in far too long. This winter I really need to make more of an effort to forego the new places. I’m happy to say it’s as good as I remember. The dishes missing descriptions were specials and as usual I regret that I didn’t make notes.

IMG_7908.JPG
Ensalada de Otono

IMG_7917.JPG
Huevos Diablo

IMG_4276.JPG
Lamb meatballs, almonds, migas, roasted tomatoes, sheep’s milk cheese

IMG_4280.JPG

IMG_4284.JPG