Very occasionally I am wrong. When Chef’s Club opened I thought the concept was a bit ridiculous. Considering the general dislike that New Yorker’s have for out-of-town absentee chef’s I saw little that made sense about a menu that was a compilation of dishes by 3 such chefs. A permanent pop-up concept like Intro in Chicago is more of what I thought Chef’s Club would be. I have previously dined in the Chef’s Club Studio and the experience was wonderful. But this was my first time in the dining room as well as my only restaurant week meal this year. I may have mentioned it in a prior review, but this dining room is probably one of my favorites in NYC. The layout of the open kitchen allows for a maximum number of guests to have a fantastic view, the bar is absolutely stunning and the Puck building an icon on its own. I can’t even imagine how long just the bar miss en place takes. And while I am always skeptical of restaurant week menus, Chef’s Club used only the regular menu which indicated which dishes could be part of the restaurant week price as well as supplements for all others. I believe we were evenly split on supplements or not and did add a pizza after watching them being made in front of us all evening. An overall lovely experience and it was fantastic to enjoy restaurant week without feeling like you were settling for a menu you didn’t really want.
Salad of the month – market tomatoes, ricotta, garlic crouton, soppressata, basil, charred tomato vinaigrette
Maine diver scallops – quinoa, meyer lemon, calabrian chili oil
Thai glazed short ribs – barrel aged fish sauce, broccoli, peanuts, mint cilantro
Colorado lamb chops, cotechino, endive, white beans, pear
Diavola pizzetta – salami napolitana, smoked mozzarella, san marzano tomato, chili oil
Dessert of the month – plum upside down cake, lemon sorbet, cream anglaise, plum caramel sauce
Ice cream and sorbet
Monthly Archives: August 2015
NYC – 8/4/15 – La Pecora Bianca
I love having another great dining option in a neighborhood that I find myself in most days of the week and often quite hungry following a workout. A very wise friend of mine cautioned me against visiting new restaurants too soon after opening and I probably should have listened. Service was completely confused and at one point I almost left. To be fair this was day 2 so I forgive and shouldn’t even mention the service issues as they are probably ironed out by now. The salads were exactly what I was looking for on a hot evening. And a fantastic idea with the small bites that everybody receives to start. I definitely see many return visits in my future.

Formaggi and Salumi
Pomodori – Garden peach tomatoes, pickled shallots, basil
Verdure Verdi – Sugar snap, snow, and green peas, fava beans, asparagus, pecorino
Chicago – 8/1/15 – XOCO, Next Patio, Boeufhaus, and Aviary
XOCO
Still my favorite lunch in Chicago. Only a few hours prior to this I was in my hotel throwing up from a migraine. Somehow I drug myself out of bed and credit the healing powers of guacamole for getting me through the rest of the day.
Fully dressed guacamole & XOCO salad

Next Patio
Unfortunately it did not work out for me to repeat the Tapas menu but I did manage to return on one of the few beautiful evenings Chicago has had this summer for pintxos on the patio. As I said the last time, the bocadillo is one of the best things in Chicago right now. It would be brilliant if this made it on to the Aviary or Office menu. Pretty please??
cold octopus and celery salad
porkbelly and manchego sandwich


Boeufhaus
I can’t believe that I went to Boeufhaus and didn’t have a steak. But it just seemed too hot, not to mention I had just finished the bocadillo. I’m looking forward to one the next time, however the vegetables and seafood dishes at Boeufhaus are not to be overlooked. I could have easily eaten two plates of the citrus salmon. My only tiny quibble was that the green goddess was just taken out of the fridge and was quite solid when it arrived at our table so by the time it softened enough to use as a dip, the crudite was almost gone.
Crudité – green goddess

Citrus Salmon – ginger oil, pickled honjimeji, fresno chili, crisp skin, herb salad

Salade Du Marche – early spring vegetables, house greens, root vinaigrette
Scallops (unfortunately a special and I did not write down all of the components)
Cauliflower gratin – leek, gruyere, bechamel, herbed bread crumb

Aviary
Since the Aviary opened there have been a multitude of very cool ice preparations as one would expect from a ‘bar’ that has an ice room. But this one is my favorite of all. I don’t have an ‘after’ picture but the ice chips are dropped into the glass before the cocktail is added. I can’t wait to see what you do next Micah!
Chicago – 7/31/15 – Boka and the Office
Boka
I had been over a year since I’ve been to Boka so very happy that my dinner companions suggested it. It is such a solid choice but inevitably falls off of my radar in the quest for new places. Absolutely perfect service and beautiful plates. My only regret is that we did not have time for dessert as I was looking forward to the funnel cake component of the roasted strawberry. A perfect reason to return very soon.

Amuse

Marinated Blue Marlin – yuzu kosho, almonds, wild fennel

Heirloom Tomatoes – watermelon, sunflower seeds, lemon balm

Corn Soup – razor clams, summer beans, avocado

Cured Foie Gras Salad – apricot, baby lettuce, buttermilk
Salt Cod Ravioli – artichoke, lemon, sorrel

Colorado Lamb Loin – cauliflower, cherries, dandelion

Pekin Duck Breast – fennel, apricots, sheep’s milk feta

Olive oil poached halibut – carrot, olives, mussels
The Office
As usual there is nowhere I would rather end an evening! Of course no recollection of what these were but they were delicious.

LA -7/25/15 – Petit Trois, eggslut, Bestia
Petit Trois
I arrived a few minutes before opening to find a number of people already in line. Luckily some of their parties were not complete by the time the doors opened so I had no problem getting a seat. I absolutely loved everything about this meal from the service, to the fantastic cocktail, to the beautiful salad, to the copious amounts of bread I ate to soak up the juice from the mussels.
Heirloom tomato salad, buffalo mozzarella, lemon verbena
Moules Frites, white wine, shallots, garlic, creme fraiche 

eggslut
With several hours to kill before dinner, of course the most logical thing to do was have a second lunch. The line would have been much more bearable had it been about 10 degrees cooler outside but at least it moved quickly. I’m not even a fan of breakfast sandwiches but eggslut could convert anybody!
Fairfax – soft scrambled eggs and chives, cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and siracha mayo in a warm brioche bun 
Bestia
There is definitely a reason that Ori Menashe of Bestia was named one of Food & Wine’s best new chefs for 2015 and that Bestia is a favorite for so many. I only wish I was with a larger group and could have ordered more because everything I saw around me looked so good. A perfect ending to this weekend trip.
Farro salad, shaved heirloom cauliflower, pine nuts, avocado puree, pickled chili, mint, montasio
Smoked whitefish crostino, dill, potatoes, scallions, fresno chilies, celery leaf
Spanish prawns, salumi, cherry tomatoes, charred potato, cucumber, plums, oregano
Yellow peach and santa rosa plum crostata, frangipane, buttermilk ice cream 
LA – 7/24/15 – Jon & Vinny’s, Night + Market Song, Smoke.Oil.Salt, The Walker Inn
Jon & Vinny’s
It’s definitely the sign of a vacation day to be able to go out for breakfast. Luckily my early flight landed on time and despite having eaten on the plane I was starving by the time that I arrived. I loved my seat overlooking the kitchen and could see spending far too much time here if I lived in LA. Such a great breakfast and I can’t wait to make a return trip for dinner (and the avocado toast) and to buy some wine! This is yet another fantastic addition for John Shook and Vinny Dotolo and now I can’t even pick a favorite.
Peach Crostada 
Kenter Canyon Stone Ground Porridge, toasted almonds, gaviota strawberry, orange blossom honey

Night + Market Song
I love an addictively spicy dish so much and I haven’t had a good one in quite some time. My mouth was on fire but I just couldn’t stop eating the papaya salad. Not after I had downed a few glasses of water and wine and not when I was completely full. The LA Times review summed it up perfectly with “just eat, don’t ask.”
Som tum – mortar pounded green papaya salad with palm sugar, lime juice, bird eye chile, peanuts

grapow khai dao – wok fried minced chicken, long beans, chile, garlic, thai basil with steamed rice, topped with fried egg

Smoke.Oil.Salt
I was debating keeping Smoke.Oil.Salt on my itinerary as Chef Perfecto Rocher had departed right before my visit. But I’m not one to cancel reservations last minute and I’m so glad that I went anyway. Stephen Gelber is a wonderful host, I had my favorite wine of summer and the octopus was one of the best that I’ve ever had. My only regret is leaving before Caitlyn and Boy George showed up. Oh LA!

olivos con bitet – olives, toasted almonds, pickled vegetables

zanahoria – slow cooked carrots, carrot salad, carrot puree

pulpo con tomate – smoked spicy octopus, sliced chorizo, caramelized onion, tomato chutney

The Walker Inn
Of course I am a sucker for a cocktail bar with any form of secret door and doorbell. Although more so I like the ability to make a reservation. The Walker Inn is tucked in the back of the Normandie Club which perhaps would be fun earlier in the evening but was overwhelmingly loud late at night. The space is fantastic and actually slightly larger than I was expecting. Sitting at the bar you don’t receive a menu so unfortunately no descriptions of these but I enjoyed both and they were perfect based on the description I provided to the bartender.
NYC – 7/22/15 – Rebelle
I finally made it to Rebelle and I think it took me at least 30 minutes to get over the fact that this space used to be R Bar. Having spent a few interesting evenings there it was just crazy to see it as something so completely different.
The menu is divided into four sections and you are encouraged to order a dish from each which makes me wonder why this isn’t just a 4 course prix fixe. That said, the portion sizes are small enough that you can even add a course and not feel overwhelmed (and which we happily did with the foie gras). I’m now a bit torn as to whether Rebelle or Pearl & Ash will be my future go-to before heading to the Bowery Ballroom!
Foie Gras
Fluke – brown butter, sherry, caper, lemon
Lamb Tartare – green chickpea, olive, yogurt, espelette
Scallop – turnip, apple, green juice
Carrots – chanterelle, blue foot, snap peas, black pepper

Monkfish – shellfish, hen of the wood, sea bean

Peach – poached peach, lavender granite, perilla tapioca

NYC – 6/29/15 – Ai Fiori
I oddly find myself writing this in the midst of restaurant week. I know everybody in the industry dislikes it, I no longer care for it myself because I never actually want anything on the restaurant week menu, and I always wonder why anybody participates. But the first time I dined at Ai Fiori was at lunch during restaurant week several years ago. I have come back many times since and have happily followed the white label burger to Costata. So perhaps restaurant week isn’t such a bad idea after all as at least for a minority of diners, a good experience will translate into loyal customers.
I seem to have a rather large weakness for Michael White’s pasta. And while the fusilli will always be my favorite, the various versions of agnolotti at Ai Fiori definitely come in second place. Its very rare that I even order pasta because why bother if its not this good? Dining at Ai Fiori is always lovely and this was no exception. Pasta aside we loved the very summery cocktails and desserts and while I seem to have been ordering quite a lot of octopus lately, this one definitely ranks near the top of the list. As tends to happen far too often, I was distracted by conversation and didn’t take notes on the dishes so the only descriptions I have are from the ones still on the menu.
I look forward to checking out the newest Altamarea addition soon!

amuse 
octopus
Crudo di Passera – fluke crudo, American sturgeon caviar, Meyer lemon
Trofie Nero – ligurian crustacean ragu, seppia, scallops, spiced mollica
Agnolotti – braised veal parcels, roasted eggplant, pine nuts, balsamic sugo 
Astice – butter poached Nova Scotia lobster
scallops
Torta di Olio – mascarpone mousse, Sicilian pistachio, strawberry sorbetto 

Morristown, NJ – 7/21/15 – Jockey Hollow
If I lived Morristown I would definitely be a regular at Jockey Hollow. Lucky for me a meeting had me in the area so I thought it was the perfect excuse to check out the bar menu. Right before this visit head bartender Christopher James posted a photo of a Ramos Gin Fizz variation on instagram. It had been years since I have had a Ramos because the best versions were made by the most talented bartender I have ever known, Jason Cevallos. I didn’t even have to ask for one but on every visit to the Office @ the Aviary, a different version would appear in front of me at some point during the night. Jason tragically passed away almost 2 years ago and I’ve just never been able to order one since. But I saw this picture and it was the first time I’ve wanted one. The stars aligned with an almost empty bar so I didn’t have to feel too badly about ordering such a time consuming drink. It seems so strange that a cocktail can bring back so many memories. It was wonderful and I’m glad to be back in the Ramos game.
Unfortunately I was totally sidetracked and didn’t make very good notes about everything else we ordered. However it was all fantastic and to call this a ‘bar’ menu certainly does not do it justice. The skate I am still thinking about….
Spicy tuna crudo
Skate
CC burger – raclette, slab bacon, salt & vinegar fries
NYC – 7/20/15 – Charlie Bird
I hope to spend the remainder of the summer revisiting some old favorites that I have neglected for way too long. There seem to be so few places open between lunch and dinner and while they don’t serve the entire menu, what more is really needed on a brutally hot day than my favorite salad in New York (with an added bonus of my favorite cocktail of all time)?
NYC – 7/17/15 – Huertas
I haven’t been to Huertas since the menu format changed and it was nice to be back! So happy to have stumbled upon Chef Miller at City Grit what seems like ages ago.
Pintxos 
Almejas – clams, fennel, lemon, herbs, bread
Pimientos – shishito, white bean, anchovy
Pulpo – octopus, potato, pimenton
Migas – summer squash, jamon, fried egg, crumbs
Vieira a la Zurrukutuna – scallops, peppers, corn, tomatoes

NYC – 7/13/15 – Gramercy Tavern
It has been so long time since I have been to Gramercy Tavern that I am actually embarrassed. I need to keep reminding myself to stop chasing everything new and revisit the classics. Such an absolutely perfect lunch. Its lovely to feel like its a vacation day mid-week!
My favorite wine of summer
Fluke and Summer Squash Tartare, Cucumber, Cherries and Basil
Lamb Flatbread, Zucchini, Reading Raclette and Mint












