14 – Chef’s Club Studio – Erik Anderson

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I will admit that I don’t really get the concept of the Chef’s Club. When it was first announced I thought it would be more of a rotating pop-up concept. But it is actually a regular restaurant with a menu created by four visiting chefs (selected each year) but helmed by a different executive chef. I’m not sure that I would ever visit just for dinner but I was happy to see that others are supporting it and the dining room was quite full. But there is a separate ‘studio’ space where dinners are hosted when the visiting chefs are in residence and I was lucky enough to reserve a spot for one of Erik Anderson’s dinners. I have regretted not having made it to Catbird Seat while he was there so was thrilled to FINALLY be able to have his food. Expectations certainly exceeded.

The Puck – bourbon, bee pollen, pear, pepper (at the bar pre-dinner)

Maine diver scallops – raw & cooked

Potato – creme fraiche, caviar

Squab liver Bon-Bon

White truffle porridge – Danish rye bread, goat butter, hickory nuts, tonka bean

Tart – potato, black truffle

Pike – onions, roasted chicken skin bouillon, preserved lemon

Roasted pigeon – cranberry, juniper, chestnut, turnip, pine

Hay custard – roasted sweet grass hay, fresh cream, barrel-aged maple syrup

Burnt sugar and Rosemary pudding – buttermilk, pecan, sable

Wine Pairing
Raventos I Blanc ‘de nit’ Rose Cava 2012
Les Granges Paquenesses Cremant Du Jura Brut NV
Lanson ‘Black Label’ Champagne Brut NV
Domaine De La Pinte, ‘La Capitaine’ Arbois 2011
Charles Joguet ‘Cuvee Terroir’ Chinon 2012
Vinhos Barbeitos, Rare Wine Co. ‘Historic Series’ Savannah Verdehlo NV

20Jan2015

Chicago – 1/3/15 – the Bristol, Juno, Aviary & the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The Bristol
I’ve been meaning to get to the Bristol for brunch ever since they started offering it. But as happens in NYC, I often don’t get back to the old favorites because I am always trying something new. I wish that the hangover breakfast had more broth but was able to console myself with duckfat fries. Although those give me opportunity to comment on one of my biggest dislikes – homemade ketchup. I truly do appreciate the effort, but nothing homemade will ever be better than Heinz (which has nothing to do with my PA heritage).
Hangover breakfast, noodles, pork broth, shrimp mousse, aromatic vegetables

braised pork chilaquiles, fried egg, lime, cilantro, queso fresco

home made sausage

Duck fat fries

Juno
Whenever I have previously mentioned a visit to Juno, the first question I was asked was whether I did the omakase menu. So finally I can say that I have and it was as good as my high expectations going in. Thank you to all of my Chicago friends for making sure I did it. BK you are amazing. And a huge thank you to Jason for just being awesome. Looking forward to my next trip.

Aviary and the Office
Unfortunately I skipped dessert at dinner planning to have 5+ BTEs when I got to Aviary. So unbelievably disappointing to realize that they were immediately removed from the menu when the Trio menu ended at Next. You guys know I adore you, but couldn’t we have had 2 days of advance notice?? I would have stocked up earlier in the week. Enough cannot be said about Julia’s amazing origami garnishes in the Office and Micah’s final drink of the evening still reigns weeks later as the best thing I have had to drink in 2015.

16Jan2015

Chicago – 1/2/15 – Nico Osteria, the lounge @ Sixteen, and The Berkshire Room

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Nico Osteria
How completely predictable to find myself back here again. But when you have friends who haven’t been it’s the perfect justification.
Madai snapper – kohlrabi salsa verde, nasturtium

Endive salad – butter lettuce, hazelnut, pear, ribiolina

Bar Harbor Mussels – vermouth, almond butter

Rigatoni -northern ragu

The lounge at Sixteen
Sixteen is at the top of my to-do list as soon as spring hits Chicago and it is warm enough to at least set foot on the terrace. But even in winter this is the best view in Chicago. The absolute perfect evening to be enjoying a glass of Dom Perignon with the best possible view of one of my favorite buildings in Chicago. Thank you Doug for taking such good care of us!

Cheese

Berkshire Room
Definitely one of my Chicago favorites! A great evening catching up with friends old and new!

16Jan2015

Chicago – 12/31/14 – Little Goat and Sepia

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Little Goat
I finally, finally ordered something other than the parathus burrito. I may have a new favorite….seriously awesome salad!
The chickpea – kale, chopped veggies, montamore cheese, tzatziki, chee vinaigrette, chicken

Sepia
After a last minute change in NYE dinner plans, we found ourselves dining at the bar at Sepia. Of course it being NYE there was a set 4 course menu. The squash tart and sausage were both course 2 and of course both desserts are represented in the photos. Overall a lovely start to the evening. And that rabbit sausage was to die for!
amuse

kona kampachi ceviche, smoked jalapeño, coconut milk

kabocha squash tart, multigrain sable crust, brown butter

rabbit sausage, black truffle, celery root, truffle jus

beef short rib “au poivre,” yukon gold potato puree

pear, chestnut, caramelized fennel, olive oil jam

chocolate date cake, creme fraiche, hazelnut, honey

And a big thank you to Greg for hosting, and Michelle and Brian for organizing, an amazing NYE party!

15Jan2015

Chicago – 12/30/14 – Nico Osteria and Next

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’m not sure I could even count on one hand the number of meals I have had in a hotel in all of my travels. For the most part I do my best to avoid the restaurants and the suggestions of every front desk clerk and concierge that offers to make me reservations. But its too difficult to pass up Nico Osteria when staying at the Thompson, especially when you don’t have to put on a coat and brave the frigid Chicago temps to get there. The minestrone photographed poorly but this was the best soup I have had all winter and is one of those dishes I could eat everyday until spring. And a salad that rivals the aesthetics (and taste) of Nico’s crudo. The perfect pre-nap meal.

Minestrone – poached egg, pancetta, Parmesan

Marinated beet salad – salami toscano, frisée, clockshadow caprino, mint

As this was my second time having Next’s Trio menu I won’t re-post photos. I will just say this menu moves fairly close to the top of my rankings of all of them. And in 2016 could we please do a Greatest Hits menu????

14Jan2015

NYC – 12/21/14 – Daniel

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My first trip to Daniel since their loss of a star. I tried to find a reason for it compared to my previous visits and couldn’t. But so much is subjective. There was perhaps one dish that I didn’t feel was the most successful. But service was impeccable, perhaps better than ever. Again my downfall seems to be that with certain dining companions I can’t be bothered making notes or writing down dishes. I fear so much being the unsocial and rude diner on her phone the entire meal that I default as far away from this as possible. Someday I hope to find a balance.

8Jan2015

NYC – 12/20/14 – Ai Fiori

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It had been way too long since I visited Ai Fiori and it admittedly fell off of my radar until some friends from out of town recently dined there. A perfect choice for catching up with family who prefer a more formal setting and a dining room where you can actually hold a conversation. While the entire meal was fantastic, perhaps predictably it was the Tartufo Bianco Tagliatelle that was the stand out dish. As I have said before, minimal ingredients executed perfectly often tend to be the most memorable (plus I honestly could eat truffles on almost anything). I did have a lovely cheese plate for dessert but evidently was sidetracked by an extra dessert wine and forgot all about a picture. A big thank you to Colin and Edward for the incredible service!

Blessed Thistle – cardamaro, michter’s rye, lemon, egg white

Amuse

Crudo di Dentice – red snapper crudo, garlic crema, crispy shallots, trout roe

Tartufo Bianco Tagliatelle – pasta ribbons, butter, parmigiano (before and after)

Vitello – amish veal chop “au four,” new potatoes, prosciutto, sage

8Jan2015

NYC -12/18/14 – Mu Ramen and the Happiest Hour

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Mu Ramen
I haven’t put so much effort into a restaurant reservation in ages. 65 calls to get through. And while I don’t want to do it again anytime soon, it was sort of fun in an old school kind of way (and gave my co-workers a bit of entertainment). Notes: Wait until 4pm to call and yes they still take walk-ins.
As for the chicken wings, fried and foie? Yes please! Loved loved both ramens that we tried. Both completely different but equally fantastic. Looking forward to a return trip now that their liquor license has been granted!

Tebaski Gyoza – deep fried chicken wings stuffed with foie and brioche

Shishito peppers with lemon aioli

And the main event

The Happiest Hour
The happiest hour it was not. Upon entering we were met by a gentleman who demanded to take our coats without so much as a greeting. The space can become extremely crowded even on a weeknight and was so loud that it was difficult to hear my friend who was directly beside me. My cocktail was well made and quite good but after one I couldn’t tolerate the noise any longer. So we proceeded to the door, handed our coat check ticket to the gentleman standing there who disappeared for quite some time and then returned to ask us what our coats looked like. When he still couldn’t find them he started almost yelling at us to tell him what the person looked like who took our coats in the first place. So 15 minutes later, after we went to the coat room in the basement ourselves and still couldn’t find them, absolutely no apologies and we were essentially accused of giving our coats to somebody who didn’t work there. Long story short, it was the same guy who originally took our coats but was trying to cover his ass. Mix ups happen and if there would have been even a simple apology I wouldn’t be writing about this. But the attitude was so completely offensive and inhospitable as if it was somehow our fault that they misplaced our coats that we didn’t even want to check in the first place. If you must visit, wait until summer.
Fall From the Tree – bourbon, apple juice, cinnamon, lemon, aromatic bitters

7Jan2015

Seattle – 12/13/14 – Sitka & Spruce and Westward

Posted in Seattle by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Sitka & Spruce
On a surprisingly warm and beautiful December day Sitka & Spruce was a lovely walk from my hotel. It makes up one part of a large space which houses several other concepts and for a moment it was a bit difficult to tell where exactly it was. The room is bright and perfect for brunch which is when I happened to visit. While my salad perhaps wasn’t the most exciting, it was well made and the fantastic soft scrambled eggs have me hooked to return for dinner.

A salad of young lettuces, ash roasted shallot and hazelnut

Seared halloumi, soft scrambled eggs, brussles & chili vinegar

Westward
My photos do not even begin to do justice to the incredible diorama that makes up the back of the bar. Unfortunately by sunset the day became a bit to chilly to sit outside although they do have blankets. But it seems that Westward may be Seattle’s even better version of my Chicago favorite Big Star, i.e. Perfect for Sunday Funday (and really any other day). I’m happy to say that this year’s Bon Appetit best new restaurants list hasn’t let me down yet! The gigantes beans are amazing and lamb with tzatziki may be my last meal so this dish was perfect.

Jar of house pickled fruits & vegetables

Wood baked gigantes beans, tomato, feta, marjoram

Braised Anderson Ranch Lamb Shoulder, herb & onion salad, pomegranate, tzatziki, pita

House made sorbet

5Jan2015

Seattle – 12/12/14 – Barnacle, the Walrus & the Carpenter and Canon

Posted in Seattle by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Barnacle
What an absolutely lovely spot to enjoy a cocktail while waiting for a seat at the Walrus & the Carpenter. I only regret not returning after dinner for another drink with so many amaros to choose from.

Cobble hill variation – fernet branca, carpano antica, bitter lemon soda

The Walrus & the Carpenter
I had wanted to visit for what seems like ages but a trip to Seattle just never materialized. So when I found myself needing a few thousand more miles before the end of the year it was the perfect excuse. An absolutely perfect meal and a waldorf salad that I could eat every single day (and my mother will attest that I actually hate waldorf salad).

Carrots,meta, caraway, mint

Waldorf salad, cabbage, hazelnuts, pear, dill

Scallop crudo, radish, smoked almond tarator, olio nuovo

Steelhead salmon tartare, horseradish creme fraiche, rye

Maple bread pudding, espresso butter sauce, whipped cream

Canon
I was exceptionally lucky to almost immediately get a seat at the bar on a Friday night, especially after being quoted a 30 min wait. Canon truly is a whisky and bitters emporium and so many bottles made for a lovely view. I loved the bottled sparkling last word as a slight variation on one of my all time favorite cocktails.

Sparkling last word

Angostura-bourbon nuts

And my favorite quote of the day:

4Jan2015

Chicago – 12/7/14 – XOCO Wicker Park and Blackbird

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

XOCO Wicker Park
XOCO has been my favorite lunch spot ever since I started to visit Chicago regularly. Until recently it was also my first stop after arriving in town and checking into my hotel. So of course I had to check out the new location to see how it compared. Just based on location I will likely stick to the original, but I am very happy to have this option for my Sunday cravings. Another great addition to Wicker Park!

Sikil Pak – pumpkin seed, roasted tomato, sour orange, habanero w/ cucumber, jicama and tortilla chips

Fully dressed guacamole – spicy roasted poblano & Serrano, chicharron, pepitas, smoky bacon, queso fresco, crunchy-spicy kohlrabi, grilled onion, sun-dried tomato

Wood roasted chicken Pozole – gunthorp chicken, Pozole, crunchy garnishes, crushed red chile, lime

Short rib red chile caldo – braised short ribs, red chile broth, roasted vegetables, epazote, wild arugula, lime

Blackbird
I didn’t plan it at the time, but as I’m writing this I realize this was old favorites day. I’m not sure how many years ago it was, but Blackbird is the first Chicago restaurant that I really remember visiting. But with every subsequent trip I’ve always been trying new places and have put out of mind the oldies but goodies. So when a friend who had never been suggested it I was more than happy to revisit this old favorite. It was fairly quiet so I hope only because it was a Sunday and not because others have forgotten about Blackbird as well.

Mushroom panisse with grapefruit, chervil, and shellfish emulsion

Ivory char crudo with smoked char roe, turnip, green grape, pearl onion, and pumpernickel

Celery root soup with grilled lobster, preserved lemon, celery and marigold

Oil poached walleye with parsley root, hazelnut, radish, chickweed and spicy coppa

Smoke brined chicken breast and black truffle-taleggio sausage with carrots, pecans and dill

Grilled lamb loin with cucumber, trumpet mushrooms, mustard, chickpea and sorrel

Milton creamery ‘prairie breeze’ cows milk white cheddar with toasted sourdough crumpet, horseradish butter, quince and amaranth

Amaro and fennel sorbet with pomegranate and thyme tapioca

Grilled pear with brown butter oat cake, quark ice cream, hazelnut trail mix, and ginger

4Jan2015

Chicago – 12/6/2014 – 42 grams and the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

42 grams
I was very fortunate to have made this reservation prior to the release of the 2015 Michelin Guide. Once again I had a truly fantastic experience at 42 grams and a huge congratulations to Jake and Alexa on their 2 stars. So well deserved! I can’t wait for the next menu.

Crispy snacks – pecorino crisp, Vidalia onion parchment, fish-n-chip

Perky toe crab – tomatillo, avocado, jicama, toastada, espelette pepper

Mojama de Atun – frozen sweet pea, seabuckthorn, apricot kernel, oxalis

Flavors of the Sea – red spot prawn, smoked roe, caviar, phytoplankton, sea vegetables

Green Curry – white sturgeon, jasmine rice, chicken skin, cashew

Skuna Bay Salmon – tea smoked with fallen pine, matsutake mushroom, spent grain, dash

Cultured Barley Porridge – pig heart, jowl, enoki, grains, grapefruit, mugolio

Veal Sweetbread – foie gras, black truffle, ash-baked eggplant, ground cherry

A5 Miyazaki Wagyu – bone marrow, beef tendon, umeboshi, baby boo choy

Matcha Green Tea – sesame, yuzu

Tart – kalamansi, oxalis blossom, honey

Sweet – candle, tamarind, brown butter, roasted banana, hazelnut, bubblegum hyssop

Coffee

The Office
As usual amazing off menu drinks by the lovely Julia Momose and more glassware that I covet. And I somehow managed to make room for a Wagyu tartare nightcap.

iwillmakeualist

Places I love and my to-do list of restaurants and bars

Monthly Archives: January 2015

NYC – 1/10/14 – Chef’s Club Studio – Erik Anderson

Chicago – 1/3/15 – the Bristol, Juno, Aviary & the Office

Chicago – 1/2/15 – Nico Osteria, the lounge @ Sixteen, and The Berkshire Room

Chicago – 12/31/14 – Little Goat and Sepia

Chicago – 12/30/14 – Nico Osteria and Next

NYC – 12/21/14 – Daniel

NYC – 12/20/14 – Ai Fiori

NYC -12/18/14 – Mu Ramen and the Happiest Hour

Seattle – 12/13/14 – Sitka & Spruce and Westward

Seattle – 12/12/14 – Barnacle, the Walrus & the Carpenter and Canon

Chicago – 12/7/14 – XOCO Wicker Park and Blackbird

Chicago – 12/6/2014 – 42 grams and the Office