Monthly Archives: June 2016

Chicago – 5/21/16 – mfk, Roister, Green River, Next and Aviary

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mfk
Each time I have visited mfk I just can’t understand why it is not absolutely packed.  Somehow it has remained Chicago’s best kept secret.  Suffice it to say I love everything on this menu. Ok maybe not the sardine butter but the ceviche could just keep coming all day long.


braised oxtail & potato croquettes, charred tomato aioli

ceviche, poblano guacamole, squid ink tostada

bread, sardine butter, breakfast radishes

roasted & chilled cauliflower, xato, almond, pickled onion

poached shrimp, green papaya, cucumber, sugar snap peas

seafood fideous, toasted vermicelli, piperade, saffron

Roister
Unfortunately Roister was not yet open for lunch by this trip as I was hoping so we were forced into Plan B which was a Roister and Next doubleheader. Maybe it doesn’t quite count doing the a la carte menu vs. the Roister menu but there always has to be something to strive for the next time (no pun intended). We were not able to order the larger dishes that I wanted the most (actually willing and able but would regret it later on) but I still think that we did pretty well. As Roister seemed to be so long in the making there was a part of me that feared it would fall short of expectations. But of course I should know better. It was exceedingly difficult to not finish absolutely everything and think about anything other than when I could get back here again.

Yukon fries – soy dusted, bonito flakes, rice vinegar, tofu mayo

Baja hiramasa – black sesame, raspberry, tarragon
Grilled asparagus salad – macadamia nut dressing, fennel, rice

Gulf shrimp toast – red crab butter

Carolina gold rice – hoisin glazed carrots, mushrooms, thai basil

Foie gras – black walnuts, pretzel, marshmallow

Strawberries & milk – jam, gummies, shortbread crumb

Green River

We had to exit the West Loop for a bit of the evening to enjoy some fantastic cocktails from the lovely Julia Momose.


Next South America (Peru)
There is not too much I can say about each visit to Next that I haven’t already said before. But this was easily my second favorite of all of the Next menus and if I lived in Chicago I would certainly be back for the other country iterations. This was a completely seamless transition to Chef Tomaska and I can’t wait to see what he does with the next menu.

Raspadilla – chicha morada, cassia, leche

Pisco sour

Ceviche
banana & passionfruit
corn & chocolate
aji
lime & orange



Tiradito
mackerel, kombu, peanut, cactus fruit

Picanteria
casabe, canchita, solterito de queso
empanada, rocoto relleno, anticucho






Alpaca Wool
escabeche de camaron


Sudado
paiche, gooseberry, coconut, pork


Pachamanca
gallina, humita, pina, salsa criolla


Dulces
guava & picarones
chocolate, rhubarb, dulce de leche

Aviary
Because one is never too full for a black truffle explosion.

NYC – 5/16/16 – Contra @ Gramercy Tavern

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I have absolutely loved all of the Contra collaboration dinners and this one was no exception.  While the floral displays and seasonal decorations at Gramercy Tavern are always stunning, the centerpiece of the large table in the private dining room was exceptional.  Looking back at this menu it is very difficult to pick a favorite dish.  And in several cases I am not sure which dish was a Contra vs. Gramercy Tavern creation which in my opinion means that this was a very successful collaboration.  Also impeccable service by the GT team!


Warm potatoes, mackerel, spruce
Smoked trout & eel consomme, onions
Hake, parsnips, mustard greens

Sweetbreads, asparagus, lobster

Grilled coppa, mushrooms, fresh herbs

Off-menu dessert

Passionfruit semifreddo, wildflower honey, spruce

Strawberries, sour milk ice cream

Frederick, MD – 5/15/16 – Volt

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Like so many others I had wanted to go to Volt since the Voltaggio brothers came onto my radar on Season 6 of Top Chef.  It seemed unlikely based on the location but then my brother conveniently moved to Frederick.   His time there ended up being rather short, but I was able to get it in before he moved.  My sister-in-law and I enjoyed an absolutely lovely joint pre-birthday brunch.  Both of our first courses were absolutely perfect for summer and dishes that I could eat everyday.  I loved my Maytag blue cheese based dessert as I would choose cheese over a sweet dessert any day. But that said, I did still love our special birthday dessert!


Beets, avocado, yellowfin tuna, pickled roses, kaffir lime
Scallops, yuzu, kohlrabi, calabrian chili

Kennebec potato hash, braised pork, salsa roja, fried hen egg

Sticky bun, raisin, honey lavender
Donuts, cinnamon sugar

Lamb loin, la ratte potato, baby carrot, piquillo peppers, parsnip

Maytag bleu, cashew, apple, honey
Coconut, white chocolate, yuzu
Happy Birthday to us!

NYC – 5/7/16 – Four Horsemen

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I’m trying very hard to cross everything off of my Brooklyn to-do list before the L shutdown.  I’m so glad that I finally made it to Four Horsemen and all of the great things I had heard from many friends were completely accurate.  Really great food but perhaps more importantly an absolutely fantastic staff.  Not pictured are the many wines that we tried representing all spot-on suggestions from our server.  I feel like I was the last person I know to make it here but if you haven’t been, go!

warm house bread, cultured butter

black bass crudo, carrot dashi, puffed rice, cilantro

beef tartare, seeds, buttermilk, sesame cracker

snap pea salad, calabrian chili, cashews, mint, ricottaa salata

grilled bavette steak, ramps, asparagus, cress

NYC – 5/6/16 – Le Bernardin & Nougatine 

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Le Bernardin
I know I am completely spoiled because I can drop into Le Bernardin for lunch any time that I want.

New Englander – Boodles gin, cranberry, yuzu juice

Sea Scallop – slivers of sea scallop, shaved fennel, citrus vinaigrette
Carrot Soup – Maine lobster, yuzu foam
Striped Bass – baked striped bass, sweet potato, sofrito sauce

Merluza – sauteed Merluza, pea shoots, shitake mushroom broth

Peruvian Chocolate – warm chocolate cake, caramelized fig, spiced chocolate ice cream
Sorbet

Nougatine
While this fantastic classic burger was all that I had, I found it particularly noteworthy because of the amount of ketchup served on the side.  As someone who can easily polish off a bottle of ketchup in two sittings I am always disappointed when I order fries and end up with one of those sad small stainless cups that is half full.  As crazy as it sounds I will go back for this burger on the basis of the ketchup quantity alone. Finally somebody has gotten this right!

NYC – 5/3/16 – Buvette, Employees Only, Untitled and Santina

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Buvette
An early evening stop for one of my favorite cocktails the Sidecar.  Incidentally one of my dad’s favorites as well so I suppose fitting that I am writing this on Father’s Day.

Employees Only
The last two times I attempted to go to Employees Only I couldn’t get in so for once got their prior to opening.  Within 5 minutes of doors every seat was taken.  And I basically just don’t get it.  These cocktails were good, but as no ingredients were measured, even before taking a sip I didn’t expect them to be anything great.

Untitled
I seem to think about Untitled only when its warm enough to sit outside and not in other months so it sometimes falls off of my radar.  Like other USHG spots it is just incredibly solid.  No earth shattering dishes but just consistently really really good with excellent service.

Octopus, marinated radicchio, preserved lemon

Smoked arctic char mousse, fennel, rye toast

Pulled pork lettuce wraps, fried oyster, peanut miso
Cured fluke, kohlrabi, cara cara orange

Baby lettuce, spring onion, feta

Roasted and fried chicken, polenta, swiss chard
Cheese Plate

Sticky toffee cake, oranges, earl grey

Santina
And why not have a nitecap of one of my absolute favorite things in NYC?  Lamb tartare cecina.

Morristown, NJ – 4/30/16 – Jockey Hollow

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Each time that I visit Jockey Hollow I wish that I lived closer.  On this particular date luckily a family get-together put me about half way there and so seemed like a perfect excuse for another meal in the Dining Room.  I hate to repeat previous posts so I can summarize to say that this was a fantastic meal as always.  My favorite dish turned out to be the one that on paper should have been my least favorite – the gnocchi with oysters and white asparagus, the latter two ingredients ones that I generally dislike.  I love when that happens. But the two other pastas incorporating one of my absolute favorite ingredients – spring peas – were a close second.  If you haven’t been here yet do yourself a favor and go!


Grilled Spanish Octopus – eggplant, black olive and ‘nduja
Buffalo Milk Giuncata – spring produce, toasted yeast and romaine vinaigrette

Fluke Crudo – caper gremolata and vegetables sott’aceto
Squid Ink Garganelli – sliced calamari, neonata and bottarga

Spring Pea Agnolotti – king crab, asparagus and bernaise
Sheep’s Milk Gnocchi – Forth North oysters, white asparagus and crispy speck
Lamb Confit Cappellacci – spring pea broth, mint and pecorino pepato

Dry Aged Filet Mignon – potato puree, grilled romaine, ramps, and tendon ragu

Poached black bass – salsify, wild mushrooms, bulgur wheat and saffron nage

Kurobuta Pork Filet – roasted carrot, mushroom ragu and baby turnips

Sicilian Pistachio Tart – pistachio brittle, lemon curd and honey ice cream
Chocolate Date Cake – coffee anglaise, cacao nibs, and buttermilk sorbet
Creme Caramel – carrot pecan cake, coconut sorbet and toffee sauce
Cardamom Rice Pudding – poached rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet

NYC – 4/25/16 – Salvation Burger

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I suppose good timing that I was able to visit before their kitchen fire but not good timing to finally be posting this now.  This may have been some of my favorite giardiniera and I would absolutely have a double order on my next visit.  And while in photos the burger patty appears to be a bit too ‘perfect’ I thought it was quite good and I loved the ramp butter.  Fingers crossed that it will re-open soon.


Giardiniera
Salvation Burger – roasted ramp butter, taleggio cheese

Modena, Italy – 4/21/16 – Osteria Francescana

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I admittedly had been waiting to finish this post thinking that maybe Osteria Francescana would move up to #1 on the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2016.  A huge congratulations!  And this was clearly the best reservation I made in 2016.  I thought Osteria Francescana would be on my bucket list forever but the stars aligned during a week in Florence and a very trusting friend didn’t ask questions and just went along with my dining plans.  Perhaps it was the long drive, or having to park outside of the city walls and walk to the restaurant, but I think I arrived more excited with anticipation than I have been in a long time.  The night before we debated the two menu options online but were thrilled to find a third option which combined the best of both.  The beverage pairings included my favorite cocktail of the year thus far and I’m still trying to track down all of the ingredients.  It was also by far the most memorable pairing I’ve ever had.  I loved so many of these dishes especially because of the quirky names and the stories behind them and because Massimo Bottura’s personality just seals the whole meal.  That and those foie truffle macaroons.







Misery and Nobility

Lentils are better than caviar


Mackerel, suckling pig and saffron


Gnocchi as tzatziki salad

Mediterranean en papillons

Autumn in New York

Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in different textures and temperatures

The crunchy part of the lasagna

This little piggy went to the marker

Croccantino of foie gras

Caesar salad in bloom

Oops! I dropped the lemon tart

Castellina in Chianti, Siena, IT – 4/20/16 – Querceto di Castellina

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The setting of Querceto di Castellina is exactly what one imagines Tuscany to look and feel like.  After a tour of the property we enjoyed this fantastic lunch and tasting on the porch with an absolutely beautiful view.  Perhaps it was somewhat influenced by the setting, but the lasagna was absolutely perfect, as was the rest of our meal but that lasagna I’m still thinking about weeks later.  And as chianti seems best paired with food, this was an even better tasting experience than just drinking chianti alone.  A big thank you to Mary for being such a wonderful hostess and you are very lucky that your future mother-in-law is such an amazing cook.  I only wish we had taken more rose with us as it did not last very long!  Such a absolutely memorable day.