Copenhagen – 7/5/18 – Manfreds and Baest

Manfreds

In a city of great restaurants Manfreds is my favorite casual spot.  Perfect for lunch, dinner or a glass of wine.  The food is always fantastic and I can’t imagine ever going to Copenhagen and not coming here.  I forgot to take a photo of the menu but the XL beef tartare I can’t forget.

Baest
Yes there is really good pizza in Copenhagen (and charcuterie too)! I unfortunately don’t remember what pizzas we had but they were all quite good.

charcuterie and cheeses

salad from Farm of Ideas, parmesan and cured egg yolk



Copenhagen – 7/4/18 – Restaurant Barr

It was very weird to be back in the old Noma space and it not be Noma.  Restaurant Barr was absolutely lovely and far exceeded my expectations.



hot smoked mackerel, tomatoes and hip roses

cured ribeye, green asparagus and parsley

cucumber salad

chicken with creamed and grilled leeks, wild salad and chicken jus

fish frikadelle

rhubarb, creme fraiche parfait and vanilla

Jarpen, SE – 7/3/18 – Faviken

I didn’t get much sleep the night before traveling to Faviken as with limited flights, and airports quite a distance away, everything had to work out perfectly in order to arrive in time for dinner.  As I was making the very long drive from Trondheim, Norway to Jarpen I was questioning whether any restaurant could meet my expectations after putting forth so much effort to get there.  But the entire experience was even better than I had thought possible.  It was so much fun and  went by far too quickly.  Also a bit surreal to finally be there.


snacks in the gardening shed



linseed and vinegar crisps, mussel dip
mycelium broth
wholegrain wheat cracker with swede salad
wild trout roe served in a crust of dried pig’s blood

pig’s head, dipped in sourdough and deep fried, rhubarb, tarragon salt

bird’s liver custard, malted cabbage and gooseberries

slices of “spickeskinka’

scallop “i skalet ur elden” cooked over burning juniper branches


king crab and almost burnt cream


perch steamed with wild leaves and flowers from around Faviken, a disk of butter flavored with garum, cooking juices

grilled oyster

sourdough pancake, seaweed, beef butter

lupin curd gratin

mahogany clam with frozen lingonberries

a small egg coated in ash, sauce made from dried trout and pickled marigold

steamed swiss chard, oat sauce

pork chop and “tasty paste”

liver toast

colostrum with meadowsweet

raw jerusalem artichoke, darkly roasted cereals

potato dream

silage ice cream

strawberries baked in pearl sugar, very fresh cottage cheese



raspberry ice

bone marrow pudding, frozen milk

pickled semi-dried root vegetables

reindeer and birch pie

a wooden box filled with tar pastilles, meadowsweet candy, dried rowan berries, smoked caramel, sunflower nougat and dried black currants

aromatic seeds


snus fermented in a used bitters barrel

negroni variation

Looking into the kitchen at almost midnight

after dinner views



inside the tent

Bornholm, DK – 7/1/18 – Kadeau

It was quite a trek to get to Bornholm.  An early flight to Copenhagen, a rental car, a long drive and a ferry ride.  I was starting to think that I was crazy but then you arrive at Kadeau, sit down and look at the water and it is so peaceful that the trek seems long ago.  So many absolutely beautiful and delicious dishes with my favorites having been the palthasta and shawarma chicken.


zucchini, green juniper, Korean fir

cured duck breast, cherry blossom

kohlrabi, green strawberries, fermented pea juice

Baltic prawns, green rhubarb, dried cep mushroom

oyster, sauerkraut, hazelnuts, blackcurrant leaves

palthasta, aged cheese, flowers

scallop, roasted yeast, broccoli, rhubarb root

preserved tomatoes, onions, tomato water

potatoes, blueberry kombucha, lovage, Havgus cheese

carrots, wild horseradish, lyme grass, reduced cream

herring, pickles and fresh cheese


shawarma chicken, beef fat, sea buckthorn and rosehip BBQ

rhubarb, caramelized buttermilk, nobilis

creme fraiche, black currant, beet root, sugar kelp

Oslo – 6/30/18 – Maaemo

Perhaps the most perfect lunch I have ever had.  A gorgeous day and an amazing table with a view of the kitchen.  The brioche was one of my favorite dishes of the year and the smoked reindeer heart was a close runner up.  While Oslo wasn’t my favorite city, I will have to go back.


chilled cherry blossom tea

potato flatbread, smoked mountain trout and fermented turnip

brioche with bone marrow and sage

oysters and aged caviar with salt from the west coast, warm sauce of mussels and dill

smoked mackerel from the Oslo fjord, dried and fresh flowers

fresh scallop from Steigen in two servings, raw with white currant and black currant leaf, cooked in its shell with celeriac and gooseberries


gently steamed king crab claw, smoked scallop roe and lemon verbena
wild turbot poached in an emulsion made from turbot bones, sorrel and mushroom dashi
“Rommegrot” – a porridge of very sour cream, smoked reindeer heart and salted butter with plum vinegar

aged spring lamb with summer salad from Bergsmyrene Farm, garlic and plums from last year

frozen blue cheese with pickled black trumpet mushroom

Norwegian strawberries and cream, fresh roses, elderflower and rhubarb root

brown butter ice cream molasses and roasted hazelnuts

warm Norwegian waffles made with beef fat and koji grains, brown cheese, preserved berries and whipped romme

Oslo – 6/29/18 – Kontrast

wild parsnip with buckwheat

Tartar of wild salmon with potato and dill, deep fried salmon skin

tartar of lamb from Korsvold Farm

amackerel from Kristiansand marinated in fermented cherry juice and roseroot with radish and salsify

duck liver from Holte Farm, meadowsweet from Songsvann and pickled walnuts

king crab, grilled rhubarb with rose-hip from Bygdoy


Wild salmon from Namenfjorden, charred cucumber with sea arrow grass and wasabi leaves from Oksenoya
grilled summer cabbage with sauce of dried lobster and scallop with fermented lobster head and crab apples
veal from Grondalen Farm with sauce of horseradish, lovage and sour cream with turnip

Mangalitsa pig from Svartskog Farm, roasted garlic and swiss chard from Korsvold Farm

Kraftkar from Tingvollost, honey from Vulkan Beefarm

Ice cream made of bone marrow from Horgen Farm, granite of summer berries and rhubarb
Elderflower from Skott Farm, spanish chervil cream with elderflower ice cream

Jerusalem artichoke and coffee
apple marmalade
caramel of brown cheese from Prestholt in Hol

Stockholm – 6/28/18 – Mathias Dahlgren & Gastrologik

Mathias Dahlgren
During the day this space in the Grand Hotel is absolutely lovely and makes for a quite perfect lunch stop.  It is pricey but every dish was fantastic and it was very hard to choose what to order.



raw marinated pike-perch & pine nuts, trout roe, orange, lemon verbena

steamed bun “pork adobo,” pickled cucumber, coriander, pepper

green peas & roasted cauliflower, pickled garlic, rye bread, lime

 
Gastrologik
With very limited time I had a very difficult time trying to narrow down where I wanted to dine in Stockholm.  This was the opening I debated for a while and can’t imagine having missed Gastrologik.

tunnbrod with smoked perch

summer onion and rakfisk

chicken liver, apple and meringue

grass kelp with truffle algaes

seasonal greenery with last winter’s smoked cod roe

knackebrod made with Warbrokvarn spelt with lovage ‘margarine’

karintorp tomatoes with mates herring, sour cream and pine shoot oil

raw shrimp from Smogen with radishes and horseradish

soured vegetables, daikon, black currant leaves and maritime flavours

smoked mackerel from Smogen with cucumber, unripe gooseberries and angelica

Zander’s cheek with peas and white asparagus porridge



Lettuce from Karshamra farm with grilled butter

Breast, thigh and stomach of corn-fed duck from Munka-Ljungby with rhubarb



Elderflower with frozen yoghurt and cucumber

Frozen sorrel with cream and parsley

Tea

“Sandkaka’ with currant leaves and early summer blossoms

White asparagus tart with honey