San Diego – 10/28/17 – Trust

Trust is definitely one of the better options in San Diego and I was pleasantly surprised by the food.  Service was quite good and even the wine list was a cut above most of the city.  However due to a poorly functioning exhaust system I came home having to launder everything I was wearing and wanting to wash my hair before bed, a feeling I haven’t experienced since the days smoking was permitted indoors.  I hope this was an unfortunate one time event so I will definitely give it a second chance.

hamachi tartare, black sesame, cilantro, avocado, sprouts, cucumber, trout roe, taro root

baja striped bass crudo, persimmon, apple, pickled chiles, fish eggs, citrus, herbs

arugula salad, yams, fried lentils, red onions goad fromage blanc, spiced pepitas, maple dijon vinaigrette

wood grilled cauliflower, golden raisins, mint, serrano aioli, curry vinaigrette

wood grilled pork sausage, yam gnocchi, bread crumbs, morels, charred broccoli, arugula cream

La Jolla and San Diego – 10/27/17 – Galaxy Taco and Juniper & Ivy

Galaxy Taco
I so wish Galaxy Taco was in downtown San Diego instead of La Jolla!

Juniper & Ivy
It’s always my first choice when anybody comes to visit!

carne cruda asada, quail egg, cotija, jalapeno

persimmon caprese, burrata, lemon balm, puffed rice, champagne vin, persimmon jam

country ham pancake, candied pistachio, persimmon

sweet potato agnolotti, maple glazed chestnuts, sage, brown butter

ahi tuna wellington, mushroom duxelles, gravy, kale, horseradish fingerling potatoes

La Jolla – 10/10/17 – George’s at the Cove

While its obviously all about the sunset, the food is delicious!


chili calamari – fresh hers, fresno chiles, sweet chili sauce

hummus – marinated olives, roasted peperonata, charred eggplant puree, za’atar, tzatziki, house made pita

grilled faroe island salmon, vegetable Lanson mills faro grain salad, watercress, chermoula

Healdsburg, CA – 9/3/17 – Single Thread

It was perhaps the most anticipated opening of 2016 and after so much hype I was sure that I was going to be disappointed. I tried to set very low expectations and even prepared myself to sweat on the roof before dinner.  I could not have been more pleasantly surprised at how wrong I was. One of the best examples of what hospitality is.  Delicious food, friendly and stellar service.  Really the type of fine dining experience that I gravitate toward.  I didn’t want to leave and can’t wait to return.



late summer in sonoma county








homemade tofu – heirloom tomatoes, jimmy nardello pepper, saikyo miso and olive oil

summer squash from the farm – scallop stuffed blossoms and courgette cream

bodega bay wild king salmon “ibushi-gin” – shio koji vinaigrette, char roe, and myoga

poached foie gras – tea of last year’s tomatoes, tokyo turnips, and their greens


black cod “fukkura-san” – leeks, vegetables from our farm broth of young lettuces and gyokoro tea


pacific rogue beef – noyaux cream, komatsuna, bing cherries, chanterelle mushrooms, summer truffle, and almond

sonoma grains – nettles, kasu-zuke, farro verde beignet, rib cap, and herbs from the garden

frozen peach – sweet corn granite, peach, corn pudding, and peach consommé

pennyroyal lychee sherbet – whipped lemon posset, fig compote, and plum

the check

wagashi – chocolate and mint, tomato and strawberry, yuzu cream

San Francisco – 9/2/17 – Tartine Manufactory and Lazy Bear

Tartine Manufactory
Absolutely perfect at anytime of day.

Lazy Bear
I was expecting to like Lazy Bear but perhaps not as much as I actually did. It was still a heatwave and so quite uncomfortable on the 2nd floor where dinner starts with snacks. But as we moved downstairs the ceiling fans made things tolerable. Considering that all diners are served at the same time at large communal tables execution was fantastic.  Most memorable were the reserve wine pairings which were definitely a good choice over the standard pairings.  Certainly a very fun evening and I would definitely return.

snacks




crispy mistake mushroom



spelt & rye dinner roll

sf coast halibut

sungold tomato, shelling beans, seaweeds, squid

abalone


king salmon and its roe, arrowhead cabbage, buttermilk, dill

corn, pork jowl, kale, egg yolk fudge

squab, smokey beets, huckleberry, pink peppercorn

blackberry, corn, butterscotch, basil

nectarine, nasturtium, white chocolate, oats

gummy bear, grilled strawberry, koi, olive oil
cinnamon macaron, white shocolate ganache
PB&J, raspberry jam, peanut butter mousse

San Francisco – 9/1/17 – Kin Khao and Saison

Kin Khao
Love, love, love Kin Khao so much.  The nam tok beans I can’t stop thinking about every time I have them.

nam tok beans – scarlet runner beans tossed isaan-style with lime, chili, rice powder, light soy, shallots, scallions, mint, herbs

som tum papaya salad – spicy chili, lime, fish sauce dressing, green beans, cherry tomatoes, dried shrimp, peanuts

Saison
Unfortunately I ended up in San Francisco during a heatwave and most places don’t have air conditioning.  Saison unfortunately was no exception.  I hate to judge the experience solely based on the temperature, but it in fact did make the evening almost unbearable especially as the staff seemed to almost ignore it instead of acknowledging it.  When we tried to have a server take away the wool and fur throws and pillows on our seats which were making us sweat by looking at them, he seemed taken aback.  Two hot teas and a hot broth were on the menu and as the heatwave was forecasted I can’t understand why these dishes were not changed.    The signature uni dish was fabulous as was the antelope.  But my lasting impression was of my sweat soaked dress plastered to me as I stood up to leave.



saison private batch caviar

spot prawn

sea urchin

ratatouille

barbequed quail



pronghorn antelope


pineapple

fruit & tea




Chicago – 8/26/17 – Proxi

Yet another fantastic addition to the west loop.  Those tempura elotes alone are worth a visit.

tempura elotes

salad of sugar snap peas and carrots, yuzu kosho, sesame, miso brûlée

shaved zucchini, sheep’s milk feta, pine nuts, mint

baby octopus, red chermoula, fava bean hummus

black pepper pork, butter lettuce, peanuts, apple, mint

merguez sausage, eggplant aioli, almonds, grapes, radish

Chicago – 8/25/17 – Roister and Alinea

Roister
If you haven’t been to Roister and live in Chicago we probably can’t be friends. Always excellent and dishes that are so much better than they read on the menu. The spicy cucumber salad I could easily eat once a day forever. And those grits may not look like much…but the scallop XO….amazing. Some others told me that the foie gras toast was too sweet. But as dessert is is perfect and evoked so many amazing childhood cinnamon toast memories.

anson mills grits, scallop XO, egg yolk sauce, parmesan

avocado toast, english muffins grapefruit, everything butter

spicy cucumber salad, pineapple-fish sauce dressing, lots of herbs

Foie gras, cinnamon toast, strawberry jam

Alinea
Still my favorite restaurant a decade later.  Somehow I am missing a few photos because I was enjoying myself too much to be bothered.  Always an an amazing experience and always something new that is a complete surprise.  On this visit, the spud.  Perhaps not the prettiest dish in the era of instagram (despite best efforts which gave me a good laugh) but absolutely delicious.

spear | avocado, coriander

paper | langoustine, bouillabaisse, olive oil

crunch | rouille, nori

ink | olive, artichoke

garden | orange, sherry, tomato

black bass, shellfish, kuzu
kaffir lime, tropical fruit
coconut
chicken, rice



steam | hamachi, rosemary, kombu

glass | blueberry, lapsing soughing, maitake

spud | truffle, midwest dairy


toast | gruyere, black truffle, pumpernickel

smoke | veal cheek, pineapple, hearts of palm

rock | sweet potato, chocolate, miso

nostalgia | bubblegum, candy bar

NYC – 8/19/17 – Blue Hill at Stone Barns

There are certainly no better vegetables out there than those grown at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Course after course somebody at the table said “this is the best [insert type of vegetable] that I have ever had.”  And thank goodness there were so many vegetables otherwise I would have been struggling with this very long menu long before the last two courses.  This is certainly a must-do if you haven’t been, in which case go early to walk around the farm a bit.  Be forewarned, especially if you have arranged a car service back to NYC, that this is a very long menu.



NYC – 8/18/17 – The Office

The Office NYC will likely always feel a bit strange to me having spent so much time in the original.  But the amazing friends I met there and all of the memories just can’t be replicated.  So I am trying hard to think of it as something entirely new and not compare.  At this point I have had several great experiences in this space.  The food is gorgeous and with the expanded size comes an expanded menu plus some of my all time favorites the tartare and ice cream sundae.  I wish I could write this with no prior history because I am just so curious what I would think.  But mostly I am just bummed beyond belief that the minute my favorite place opened in NYC, I left town.

NYC – 7/16/17 – Momofuku Ko

Yet another fantastic meal at one of my favorites, Momofuku Ko.  This was actually my first visit for lunch and I especially loved the new-to-me pork and squash dish. I’m missing a few photos but I overcast about Ko anyway!

chicken oyster


black bass, rye bonji, perilla


sea urchin, chickpea, hozon


ko egg, caviar


beef, au poivre


lobster, lobster mushroom


pork, squash




foie gras, lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

strawberry, vanilla

NYC – 7/15/17 – the Breslin

I really cannot say enough good things about the large format fried chicken dinner at the Breslin.  I was skeptical as nothing for a group ever seems to be as good as individual.  My pictures do not at all convey how much food there was.  We could have easily fed twice as many people.  Everything was absolutely delicious and I could not stop eating.  And for NYC this was an absolutely incredible value.

 

Tijuana – 6/29/17 – Mision 19 and Tacos El Franc

Mision 19
I don’t know what the typical dining scene is in Tijuana on a weekday but I was very surprised to almost have the entire restaurant to myself for lunch.  Javier Plascencia had a place right down the street from my new apartment but unfortunately it closed before I moved.  My lunch at Mision 19 was lovely as was the service and for a minute I really wasn’t sure where I was but I wouldn’t have guessed Tijuana.  If you find yourself in Baja California absolutely seek out one of Plascencia’s spots.



Tacos El Franc
I really hope that some of the rumors of Mexican taco spots moving north of the border come to fruition.  These were delicious and ridiculously cheap.

San Diego – 6/24/17 – Craft & Commerce

It is really nice when the place two weeks away has really solid cocktails and quite good food.  Sadly they are guilty of what has quickly become my biggest pet peeve in San Diego which is every bar asking for a credit card to open a tab.  I get it at a crowded bar.  But when I am a repeat customer and am clearly not running out on my check, it is completely inhospitable.  Sit at a table 6 inches away and of course you would never be asked for a card.  Is the threat of dashing and dining any different?  Why piss off guest who is sure to return?  And after having all of my credit cards stolen more times than I can even count I don’t want any out of my possession for hours at a time.  So what I am I to do?  Pay cash for my cocktail and each plate as I order them?  Tip prior to actually receiving any service?


beef tartar – capers, cornichons, red onion, chives, egg yolk, levain

crudite salad – arugula, radish, snap peas, fennel, green goddess dressing

San Diego – 6/22/17 – Juniper & Ivy 

This was my first visit to Juniper & Ivy as I put it off on my interview and apartment hunting trips fearing that I would be disappointment but what was supposed to be the best place in San Diego. Thankfully it is awesome and I have been back so many times in the last few months that eventually I will have to stop posting about it. The menu has since changed many times but this bbq carrot dish is still one of my favorites.

big trouble in little italy – bourbon, montenegro amaro, mint, lemon, peach bitters

bbq carrots, jalapeno chimichurri, peanuts, apricot

asparagus, soppressata, salmon roe, meyer lemon, crispy potatoes, cured egg yolk

beef tartare, fave hummus, pickled eggplant, beef tendon chicharron

NYC – 5/30/17 – Per Se

This post begins my short farewell to NYC tour.  These will be many of my favorite places in NYC so I won’t be writing much because I’ve said it all before and I can’t recommend them highly enough.


oysters and pearls

salad of greenmarket squash, jingle bell peppers, picholine olive tapenade, aged parmesan and romesco


butter poached maine lobster, forest mushroom “tortellini,” green asparagus and sauce americaine

herb roasted elysian fields farm lamb, ruby beets, hakurei turnips, marcona almonds, and green peppercorn jus

“velvet elvis,” banana creme fraiche sherbet, peanut butter sabayon, and TKO crumble

Lummi Island, WA & Seattle – 5/29/17 – Willows Inn and Sitka & Spruce

Willows Inn
Not at all surprising that the family style breakfast at Willows was just perfect.

Sitka & Spruce
It was difficult to find something open on Memorial Day but luckily Sitka & Spruce was.  It was even better than my first visit here and a great ending to a holiday weekend.

castelvetrano olives

Columbia City baguette with whipped butter and sea salt

raw halibut, shaved radishes, citrus, a radish green broth & herbs

a selection of pickled & fermented vegetables with a pickled egg

grilled quail & asparagus, lovage, labneh & a spruce tip vinegar

crispy potatoes, taramasalata, berebere, aleppo chili & pickled ramps

clams steamed in ‘nduja cream, sherry & cilantro on fried toast

Seattle & Lummi Island, WA – 5/28/17 – Westward and Willows Inn

Westward
An absolutely perfect spot for a sunny Seattle day.  I loved Westward on my last trip to Seattle and so happy to get back here.


crudite

oysters

wood oven baked gigante beans, tomato, feta, breadcrumbs & marjoram

smoked arctic char salad, grilled asparagus, lentils, pan fried croutons, poached eggs

Willows Inn
It is certainly a trek to get to Willows Inn which kept me from going for quite a while but I am so glad that I finally made the effort (with a gentle push from some friends). If you stay at the inn, dinner feels like the best dinner party you have probably been to. It started with the first snacks on the patio, moved to the dining room and ended with a perfect sunset at dessert. While 2017 is not over yet, this will easily be one of my most memorable experiences of the year.




Afternoon snacks



toasted kale leaves

pink singing scallops

sidestripe prawns

rhubarb in angelica

savory doughnut

oysters and wildcress

lightly-cured rockfish in a broth of grilled bones

grilled geoduck clam

smoked mussels

reefnet caught smoked sockeye

grilled and fermented green garlic

aged venison leg

dungeness crab soaked in pine nuts

herb tostada

bread from heirloom wheat and crab brain

black cod and currant leaves

toasted birch branches

woodruff and nettles

quince and candied rosemary

pears, black walnuts, flax seeds

Seattle – 5/27/17 – JuneBaby, Canon, and Canlis

JuneBaby
I had high hopes but this was unfortunately the most disappointing meal of the trip.  The pickles were a solid start and it’s difficult to go wrong with pimento cheese (until the crackers were much too thin to support it).  The mac & cheese unfortunately was just not good and the shrimp & grits entirely flavorless.

mixed pickles

pimento cheese, pickles & saltine crackers

cast iron macaroni & cheese

gulf shrimps with Geechie boy grits & red sauce

buttermilk biscuits

Canon
I will leave this one with a Toby Keith lyric.
“I love this bar.”

Canlis
As I have said before, it is always good to take a break from chasing the newest and visit a classic.  The building that houses Canlis is fabulous but I am a sucker for mid-century modern.  Truly an awesome setting worth a visit alone.  Service was perfect and every course quite quite good.  We were even fortunate enough to enjoy a tour after dinner even though it was exceptionally late and we were the last guests to leave.

















Seattle – 5/26/17 – Bateau

Somehow I did not take any photos of my actual steak, but Bateau is actually a steakhouse via Renee Erickson whose other Seattle spots I love.  Ordering can be a bit daunting as chalkboards list all of the selections of the day and there are so so many choices of cuts and often the same cuts from different farms.  Many cuts I knew but perhaps even more that I did not.  And while it is tempting when faced with such a large menu to pick a tried-and-true cut, it is really the perfect opportunity to try something you may not have elsewhere.  The steak was delicious, as was the tartare but the side of english peas stole the show.
 
steak tartare – beet green sauerkraut, dill, cured yolk, rye toast

asparagus – nettles, egg yolk, salmon roe

english peas – burnt lemon, macron almonds, tarragon and fresh cheese

Portland – 5/25/17 – Tusk

Once again another great experience at one Bon Appetit’s best new restaurant picks.  If you find yourself in Portland, Tusk is a definitely must-do.  Such vibrant dishes which matched a very un-Portland space and flavor and ingredient combinations that I could eat very very frequently.


Chickpea fries – fresh garlic, amba mayonnaise

Hummus

Asparagus – anchovy, preserved lemon, labneh

Broccoli – carrots, dates, cilantro, almonds, shiso, crispy quinoa

Sprouted barley – snap peas, radishes, apricots, pistachios, basil, fresh cheese

Kibbeh naya – green wheat, raw lamb, turmeric yogurt, chips, romaine

Fava beans – hominy, raised pork shoulder, oregano, sumac

Seattle – 5/24/17 – Barnacle and Walrus and the Carpenter

When you find yourself with a few hours to kill in Seattle, always spend it at Walrus & the Carpenter, with a drink at Barnacle while waiting.  I love this place so so much.

Barnacle



Walrus and the Carpenter

marinated olives

oysters (of course)

baby bibb lettuces, radish, english peas, lemon yoghurt, poppy seed

steak tartare, egg yolk, rye toast

NYC – 5/17/17 – Sunday’s in Brooklyn

While I had wanted to make a trip to Sunday’s in Brooklyn, this visit happened by chance when the spot we intended to visit was closed for a private event.  Lucky there was a table and we very much enjoyed our contingency dinner.

deviled eggs, smoked paprika

garden pickles

black sea bass crude, sunchoke, meyer lemon, pickled chili, fresh cream

toasted buns, green garlic, raclette cheese

chicken drumsticks, house togarashi, spring alliums, buttermilk

roasted cabbage, fermented black trumpet mushrooms, hazelnuts

burnt honey tart, sheep’s cream, mandarinquat

Chicago – 5/13/17 – Next Hollywood 

Hollywood was absolutely the most fun Next menu.  The presentations were all fantastic and perhaps too much fun as I have never had so many missing photos.


Movie Quotes – Gone with the “Caviar”

Popcorn – meyer lemon, fennel, guanciale

The Breakfast Club – bento box, sandwich, soup, pixie stick


Cool Hand Luke – trout roe, kiwi, young coconut, turnip


The Wizard of Oz – fave bean, golden raisin, romanesco

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea – octopus & scallop



Blade Runner – noodles, duck, pickled ginger

Jurassic Park – madeira, jambo, brioche

Star Wars – frog, Ethopian spices, yellow split pea


Ratatouille – byaldi

The Godfather – taro root, ricotta, olive

Horror – smoked pork neck, beet, garlic

Pulp Fiction – bulgogi big kahuna burger


Honey, I Shrunk the Kids – foie gras, chamomile, sunflower


Marie Antoinette – rhubarb, raspberry, black tea

Missing:  “Life is Like a Box of….” and Mary Poppins

Chicago – 5/12/17 – Frontera Grill and Maple & Ash

Frontera Grill
It has been ages since I have been to Frontera Grill as I tend to default to XOCO on most visits to Chicago.  I must admit that I prefer the XOCO guacamole but still delicious.





Maple & Ash

Maple & Ash is certainly a scene especially on a weekend evening.  It makes for entertaining people watching and may give the impression that the food isn’t serious but I was very pleasantly surprised as it was absolutely delicious.  I’m not sure what the girls in the bondage dresses and crop tops are possibly eating but I’m sure their dates are enjoying eating double.  Thank you to the extraordinary Chris Gerber for knowing what I should have ordered.  In all of my trips to Chicago this was the first time I took food ‘home’ and admittedly ate the rest of my NY Strip with my fingers for breakfast along with the remainder of the phenomenal coconut cream pie out of the hotel mini fridge.


chilled louisiana white prawns

fire roasted alaskan king crab

maple & ash wedge

NY strip

potatoes

coconut creme pie

NYC – 5/6/17 – Bouchon Bakery

I don’t mind the food court feel of Bouchon Bakery at the Time Warner Center as it somehow then seems appropriate to visit post-gym still wearing workout clothes.  Consistently perfect. And I would love the recipe for the piquillo marmalade which elevated this avocado toast.

Deviled eggs

avocado toast, piquillo marmalade, pickled red onion, radish, feta, pain de campagne

NYC – 5/2/17 – Per Se 

The only place where side-by-side sitting is acceptable is at the table in front of the window in the Per Se salon. Its one of my favorite views in NYC. Per Se is always a perfect experience and the Salon makes it so easy when you haven’t planned ahead and do not necessarily want a very large meal.



Oysters and Pearls – sabayon of pearl tapioca with island creek oysters

Hudson valley foulard duck foie gras – assaisonne au confit de canard, champagne gelée, brook cherries, and cocoa-hazelnut streusel

Herb-roasted elysian fields farm lamb – merguez sausage, chickpea hummus, shishito peppers, and meyer lemon jus

Velvet Elvis – banana-creme fraiche sherbet, peanut butter sabayon, and TKO crumble


NYC – 4/29/17 – Wildair

Sadly this ended up being my last dinner at Wildair before moving.  It is definitely one of the places that I miss the most and if I had lived in the neighborhood I would have been here every single night (and would have overdosed on tartare).  Love you Wildair!

beef tartare, smoked cheddar, horseradish, brazil nuts

fried shrimp, lemon, herb mayonnaise

tete de cochon on toast, ndjua, nettles

chocolate hazelnut tart

NYC – 4/27/17 – Jeremy Fox @ Momofuku Ko

One never knows about these visiting chef dinners. Often with great chefs they are not that successful due to just being out of their element, having to source different ingredients, or a kitchen staff that they don’t know.  But when the rare one works it can be fantastic.  I’ve been trying to come up with something that tops this but haven’t been able to so far.  Perhaps because while I would not have mistaken this menu for a Ko dinner (ok maybe I would have if I went less), it still felt just like Ko.

peas, white chocolate & macadamia

radish, chevre, sea moss & mustard

sunchoke, grapefruit, fennel, uni & shoyu

beets, berries, avocado & pistachio

pappa al pomodoro, ramp kimchi & burrata

fava bean & sorrel cacio e pepe

morels en papillote, foie gras & egg yolk

strawberry with polenta soffits

pork, kumquat, kohlrabi & dill

beef, brassicas, green peanut miso & marrow


lavender almonds

fresh ricotta & strawberries

bread au chocolat

Tulum – 4/23/17 – Taqueria Honorio, Kitchen Table and Hartwood

Honorio
I feel that I am ruined for tacos forever.  These were fantastic and I still can’t get over how inexpensive they were.  I can only dream of someday finding tacos as good north of the border.  It was so sad that the next two mornings in Tulum I biked here first thing in the morning hoping it would be open, but it sadly was not.



Kitchen Table

I was insistent that we go to Hartwood while some others in the group wanted to try Kitchen Table so double dinner it was.  If only we had stayed here!

deviled avocado

crispy shrimp

costilla de cerdo

pulpo a la parrilla

Hartwood
It has been over 3 months and I am still pissed off about this dinner.  Before Noma temporarily set up shop in Tulum, Hartwood was THE place to go so of course I had to get in (challenging when they aren’t especially responsive to reservation requests).  When one of my friends had a terrible experience with the front of house staff the night before my visit it should have been a sign, but I was willing to disregard one bad experience despite completely trusting the source.  Many restaurants in Tulum are cash-only, such as Kitchen Table which we visited earlier in the evening.  It is absolutely no problem when you know that ahead of time and we showed up prepared at Kitchen Table.  But it turns out that Hartwood is cash-only which they don’t tell you on their website, in their confirmation emails or on social media.  As we were waiting for our table at the front of the restaurant we became aware of the policy via the menu board and confirmed with one of the staff who was almost too ready to point us to the nearest ATM, or 3 because we were told they would likely all be out of pesos.  Two of us set off down the road where indeed it took us 3 ATMs to find one with any money at all, although it was out of pesos yet oddly dispensed USD with a hefty service charge (about $30 which makes those $3 fees look like pennies).  At this point I was furious and felt completely ripped off.  Why are the only ATMs on the tourist strip of Tulum dispensing only USD other than to take advantage of the tourists?  And if I would have known about the policy I would have withdrawn more cash from the ATM at a legitimate bank in town earlier in the day.

By the time we hiked back to Hartwood I was a bit over the whole thing.  When the check came it was conveniently (for the restaurant) in both pesos and USD and the USD amount was at a truly atrocious exchange rate.  So between the ATM fee and the exchange rate I estimate we paid about double what we should have for this dinner.  No matter how much I may spend on food I despise being taken advantage of.  I was so pissed off by the end that I honestly have no idea what we ate and how good it was.  It didn’t matter.  Sometimes great food offsets poor hospitality (i.e. Major Food Group) but there is a point of no return.  To quote a friend who visited a few weeks after me and had an abysmal service experience, “Fu*k Hartwood.”  While Noma was in Tulum the Hartwood staff should have taken the opportunity to walk down the street and learn what great hospitality is.

Tulum – 4/22/17 – Noma Mexico

I was originally very ambivalent about going to Noma Mexico.  While I loved my visit to Noma, I never had an interest in their other pop-ups and in general pop-ups tend to feel ‘off’ to me.  When we managed to get tickets I thought it was all a bit crazy, more so because of the heat and bugs than the cost and distance.  Yes it was expensive but after seeing how much work went into building this restaurant from scratch I immediately realized that the ticket price was nowhere near expensive enough.  I tried not to worry what would happen if it rained as the restaurant was open to the elements.  Sure enough a few courses into dinner the raindrops started and while some tables were sheltered, we were not.  Before I could even start to wallow in my bad luck, we were whisked into the kitchen.  It turns out that there was a rain contingency plan (I should have known better).  Throughout the kitchen counters folded up to create bar seating and in the end every guest was relocated if not already seated under a roof.  It should have been complete chaos with the FOH staff occupied with moving people and chairs and bringing fresh drinks to keep everyone happy.  Meanwhile as lovely as the ‘dining room’ was, we were just thrilled to suddenly have a first row kitchen table seat.  A similar event would probably throw any other restaurant into a tailspin that they could never recover from, but service seemed to restart in a matter of minutes.  The whole thing was so impressive I talked about it for weeks afterwards.  I can’t even imagine how many times it was rehersed.  Aside from the fantastic hospitality, Noma managed to create a menu that 100% felt like them but with entirely local ingredients.  I suppose this is what an ideal pop-up should be, but is generally impractical to execute without this sort of large scale commitment.  Despite the dozens of bug bites I didn’t want it to be over (and briefly considered how truly crazy it would be to try to go a second time).

pinuela and tamarind

queen clam from the Sea of Cortez

salbute with dried tomatoes and chapulines

cold masa broth with lime and all the flowers of the moment

young coconut and caviar

tropical fruit and chile de arbol

banana ceviche

tortilla ladies

chaya taco with fresh bahia salsa oyster

giant key and mussel michelada


whole grilled pumpkin



tostada with escamoles

just cooked octopus with ‘dzikilpak’



cerdo pelon and fresh milled corn from Yaxunah



dessert of grilled avocado and matey seeds

chocolate from native Jaguar cacao and Mixe chile


Mexico City – 4/21/17 – Nico’s, Limantour, and Quintonil

Nico’s
Mexico City’s traffic is so terrible that we spent most of the day going to and from lunch but it was completely worth it for the guacamole cart alone.  I think the Eater article calling this the best restaurant in Mexico city was a bit too much, but its still an must-do.  No dish descriptions because we muddled through ordering from an only spanish menu.

Limantour
For pre-dinner cocktails we headed to Limantour’s Polanco location which was close to dinner.  Great drinks and space and I think deserving of its place on World’s 50 Best.

Quintonil
How Quintonil is even in the World’s 100 Best, let alone currently at number 22 is one of the many reasons the list is complete bs.  From the moment we sat down service was confused and just poor as if the right hand did not know what the left was doing.  And despite having inquired ahead of time, they seemed perplexed that we had brought some wine and almost did not know what to do with it.  I made it through the escaroles but when we got to the peas in a chia and tomato broth dish, which was pretty terrible, I had wished so much that we had booked Pujol for a second night in a row.



cactus ceviche with beetroot and orange

shrimp “flauta” with a squash blossom “aguachile”

seafood “vuelve a la vida” ear shell clam, beef tongue with noisette spices

charred avocado tartare with escaroles and mexican herb chips

peas in a chia and clarified tomato broth and smoked lard

trout “puerto nuevo” style, with fermented cabbage and sea weed mojo

dry aged duck breast with bitter almond and habanero puree, with hibiscus and figs

cactus sorbet

six and twelve month aged Ramonetti cheese, mandarin, honey and pumpkin seed


frozen mousse of roasted banana, cateja and basil

Mexico City – 4/20/17 – Contramar, Hanky Panky and Pujol

Contramar
This was an absolutely perfect first stop upon arriving in Mexico City.  We muddled through ordering and ended up with a perfect lunch.

Hanky Panky
I do love a hidden bar.  I won’t share many details to respect their wishes to keep the place secret.  But the entrance was indeed challenging to find and the drinks great.

Pujol
As this was my first trip to Mexico City I did not visit the old Pujol so I can’t really compare.  But I absolutely loved everything about the design of the new one.  And I loved everything about this dinner which has easily been one of the highlights of my year thus far.  Some of these were not necessarily super intricate dishes but they were delicious.  Fantastic octopus and maybe the best cauliflower dish I have ever had.  And why isn’t steak always served with a side of guacamole and a hot pepper?  The mole was all that it was advertised to be although admittedly I decided that mole isn’t my favorite thing in the world (but if it was this is certainly the best out there).

street snacks

octopus, habanero ink, ayocote, veracruzana sauce

cauliflower, almond salsa mocha, chile de árbol

wagyu, fennel seeds, herb guacamole

mole madre 1257 days, mole nuevo

nicuatole

churros

NYC – 4/10/17 – Empellon Midtown

I still remember my first visit to Empellon Taqueria soon after it opened.  It was very quiet.  Just myself and a friend and a food blogger taking a lot of photos.  I continued to go back frequently as well as to Empellon Cocina.  The midtown Empellon is a fantastic next step once you get past the midtown location.  The chopped cabbage salad may be one of my absolute favorites of the year.

guacamole

king salmon ceviche with jicama and hibiscus broth

octopus tacos with celery and savory peanut butter

short rib confit with picadillo garnish

chopped cabbage salad with toasted fave bean dressing

London – 4/8/17 – Bao, Zetter Townhouse, Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs

Bao
Upon the recommendation of a trusted friend I decided at the last minute to scrap my original lunch plan and check out Bao.  I did have to wait in line (to be found across the street from the entrance) but it moved quickly.  A solid tasty stop although not the best buns I have had.  Service is extremely fast so if you don’t have to wait in line you can be in and out in under 30 min.

house pickles
Taiwanese fried chicken, hot sauce
baos – lamb shoulder and classic


Zetter Townhouse
Once again I was the only person at a bar mid afternoon in London.  Loved the space and this drink was perfectly refreshing for the warm day.

Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
It always seems to be the most difficult to write about the places I love. If I lived in London I would quickly become a regular.  Yes the food is all fantastic with so many local ingredients and great accompanying stories.  But KT excels at hospitality as well and the overall experience is so lovely that I will probably never go to London again without dining here.  So many restaurants track a guest’s past reservations and various other details but never seem to do anything with the information.  It so easy to just acknowledge that a guest has dined with you before and welcome them back (and bonus points for remembering the time frame).  The crispy chicken skin was as delicious as I remembered (although I had a fix at at collaboration dinner not terribly long ago) as was the sloe gin.
 
raw hand dived scallop, ponzu, pickled seaweed

raw grey mullet, buttered miso infused with Meyer lemon, turnip, confit Meyer lemon skins, turnip tops, sliced fresh apple

crispy chicken skin, rosemary mascarpone, bacon jam

parkerhouse rolls, smoked and cured cod’s roe, dehydrated grated scallop roe, brown butter, fresh lemon zest


raw kale, sour cream and anchovy dressing, Meyer lemon puree, toasted sourdough breadcrumbs

steamed Cornish brill, roasted cauliflower florets, cauliflower puree and pickled cauliflower couscous, diced apple, mango puree, toasted peanuts, coriander stem, house made yoghurt, Moilee sauce, house made Goan curry powder

skate cooked in garlic cream, black garlic puree, wild garlic (wilted fresh, sauce, pickled stems, flowers)

in house made gnocchi, 36 month aged parmesan sauce, roasted chestnuts, perigord black truffle

24 hour cooked lamb belly, fresh mint sauce, English asparagus, Scottish morels, lemon thyme, lamb sauce

Saint Duthac blue cheese, crab-apple and rosehip jelly, caraway and fennel cracker

beetroot and brambly apple marmalade, sour cream ice cream, woodruff infused beetroot sauce, woodruff granite

rhubarb, hibiscus poached Yorkshire forced grown rhubarb, charred black pepper meringue, milk ice cream, poaching syrup

parsnip treacle tart, natural creme fraiche

caramel ‘ice cream cookie sandwich’

house made sloe gin

London – 4/7/17 – Kricket, the Connaught Bar & Kitty Fisher’s

Kricket
I absolutely loved this casual and stylish Indian spot in Soho.   I was afraid there would be a line but arrived at opening and had no issues.  The counter is definitely the place to sit as I ordered more food after seeing what was being plated for others that looked fantastic.

Lasooni scallop, goan sausage, poha, seaweed

kid goat raan

pumpkin, makhani sauce, fresh paneer, hazelnut crumble

Connaught Bar
At least I had a lot of luck with hotel bars on this trip.  Connaught Bar is absolutely gorgeous and somehow I was the only person there mid-afternoon.  I will be back for sure.

Kitty Fisher’s
Evidently Kitty Fisher’s was quite difficult to get into when it first opened but somehow seems to have slipped under the radar of most of my American friends.  The space is incredibly comfortable and felt like it had been around for years.  Very elevated ‘pub’ food and really a perfect low key evening.

perfect lady – gin, creme de peach, lemon & egg white

whipped cod’s roe on toast

leeks, smoked hollandaise, crispy chicken skin & hazelnuts

mackerel, heritage carrot, radish, piccalilli

London – 4/6/17 – Hoppers, American Bar, the Gibson, and Street XO

Hoppers
I generally quite detest the possibility of waiting in a line to get into a restaurant but will make somewhat of an exception if it suits my schedule to arrive 10-15 minutes prior to opening and be guaranteed the first seating.  Most often this rules the spot out entirely but I am glad that I made the effort for Hoppers as soon as my flight landed.  I have been missing out having never before tried a hopper – the Sri Lankan crepe of sorts made with a batter of fermented rice and coconut (enhanced further by an egg fried into the bottom).  This will be at the top of my to-do list for my next trip to London. Delicious all around.

arrack attacked – arrack, lime, bitters, house ginger beer
hot butter devilled shrimps

egg hopper and lamb kari

American Bar at the Savoy
I wish I could remember what was in it, but months later of course I cannot.  However this was the best cocktail I had on this particular trip made by an absolutely lovely bartender.  American Bar ranked #2 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list for 2016 and is certainly worth a visit.

The Gibson
Unfortunately all ‘best’ lists end up filled with those places that deserve to be on the list and those that shouldn’t be there in any rational world.  Somehow the Gibson ranks #6 on the same World’s Best Bars 0f 2016 list.  Perhaps I would have fared better if I had kept to a classic Gibson.  I think the photos pretty much speak for themselves as the fairly out-of-control garnishes completely destroyed the drinks as they fell in and changed the flavor and became a soggy mess.  I did love the candy but it would have been better on the side!


garnishes

Street XO
I didn’t intend to plan such a theatrical evening but somehow it worked out that way. Everything about Street XO is a bit over-the-top from the uniforms to the plating. So much so that I almost expected to hate it but thought the flavors were quite good, even the unexpected combinations. I was seated overlooking the kitchen which is always the best spot. However the exhaust system was completely terrible (I’m not sure if this was the normal state or it was broken) and my eyes were burning and my clothing and hair reeked when I left. Nobody wants to add drycleaning to the dinner bill. It was fairly intolerable yet I did order an extra dish and suffered it out because I was enjoying the food so much.

grilled squid with green papaya, sour & spicy hibiscus dressing, peanuts, fine herbs and lime pesto with a shot of Thai Rebujito

Galician grilled octopus, tomatillo and green apple mole with creamy yuzu potato bonbons

Pekinese dumplings, strawberry hoisin, Ali-oli and pickles

NYC – 3/25/17 – Marea & Momofuku Nishi

Marea
So many years later still a standby and one of my favorite midtown lunch stops.  It is a bit scary to think about how much of the fusilli I have eaten in my lifetime!


polipo – grilled octopus, smoked potatoes, pickled red onion, radish, chilies, tonnato

fusilli – durum wheat pasta, red wine braised octopus, bone marrow

sorbet



Momofuku Nishi

If only I could now transport Nishi to my new neighborhood on the west coast.  It quickly became one of my favorites in NYC.  Service has often been spotty and on this particular visit it took me an entire course to get our server’s attention to order another drink.  But the food somehow always trumps the less than perfect service and I continue to return. Plus finding a penicillin on a cocktail list is reason enough to visit.

penicillin

diver scallops – shio kombu, tiger’s milk, cucumber

romaine – walnut bagna cauda

beets & avocado – shiro shoya, quinoa, chia seeds

squash pancake & onion vinegar

roasted pork – brussels sprouts, barley miso

pound cake

NYC – 3/22/17 – Kristian Baumann x Chef’s Club

In a different setting I think I would have enjoyed this dinner so much more.  Its completely personal preference but for some reason Chef’s Club just didn’t work for me even though I quite like the space.  I also think its difficult to have these dinners in the main dining room.  But still fantastic to have Kristian Baumann in NYC.

little neck claims, rosehip seed oil, salted gooseberries, seaweed

California spot prawn

brown beech mushrooms, fresh goats milk cheese


grilled & glazed squab, nashi pears, arugula, blackberries



rausu combo ice cream, toasted barley, blackcurrant wood oil

NYC – 3/18/17 – n’eat

I have almost blocked it out but of course chose an incredibly cold day to trek far away from the subway to 2nd Avenue.    You have to order a fair number of dishes at n’eat to make a whole meal however it would be a great stop for pre-dinner snacks with more regularity.  I could have eaten several orders of the buckwheat toast and the duck heart tartare was absolutely fantastic.

buckwheat toast, crimini, aged cabot clothbound cheddar

spicy duck heart tartare, huckleberry, almonds

potato pancake, salt pork, pear marmalade

grilled prawns, Myer lemon, chili, egg yolk jam

NYC – 3/7/17 – Loring Place

I loved everything about the food at Loring Place except perhaps the pizza crust, but then there are few that I do like.  However as is the downfall of many restaurants, too many plates were brought at once and they barely fit on the table.  While I have list of dining pet peeves, this one is so irksome because there is just no need for it to happen.  Chef Kluger clearly has the experience to manage pacing of the kitchen. You know how big your dishes are and how large my table was, so at what point do you just tell the customer that they have ordered too much food?  And if you know as a server that the kitchen is going to send everything at once, warn me and don’t make me place my entire order at once.


butternut “fries” with lemon-parmesan dressing

leeks & pears with walnuts, yogurt and sherry vinaigrette

fluke crudo with citrus, chilies and radishes

wood grilled broccoli salad, orange, pistachios and mint

portobello mushroom pizza, ricotta, mozzarella, cherry peppers and oregano

Orlando – 3/4/17 – Ravenous Pig

So happy to find another excellent stop on the pre-conceived culinary wasteland of Orlando.  A great salad and one of the best steak frites I have had in recent memory.

Farmer salad – baby kale, house bacon, brioche croutons, Parmesan, soft boiled egg, Caesar vinaigrette

Steak frites – porcini marinated ny strip, truffle fries, a2 steak sauce

Orlando – 3/3/17 – the Rusty Spoon & Hanson’s Shoe Repair

The Rusty Spoon
Going to Orlando for a convention may be my worst nightmare. While there are chains that are passable in a pinch near the convention center, I just couldn’t do it for more than just lunch. While downtown Orlando is a bit young and clubby at night, there are great finds such as the Rusty Spoon. I did have to chuckle when our server asked if we knew the carpaccio was raw. Perhaps a bit ahead of its time for the Orlando market!

carpaccio – pepper crusted tenderloin of beef, prezzemolo, crispy capers, pickled things & greens

charred squid and octopus – hammock hollow romanesco, sweet potato, arugula, preserved lemon, oil-cured olives & crispy chorizo

a special

handcutt fettuccine nero – charred squid steak alla diavola with local fresno chili, sweet peppers, broccolini & light tomato ragu

Hanson’s Shoe Repair
I am a sucker for a bar with a hidden entrance and a password is even better. We may have walked the block a time or two looking for the address then finally ducked into a bar to ask where Hanson’s was. We were in the right place and after heading upstairs and giving the password to the doorman went back to the downstairs bar to await entry. Drinks at both bars were fantastic and I only regretted not taking Uber there!

NYC – 2/27/17 – Isaac Toups @ Tasting Table Test Kitchen

I have always loved the guys chef dinners at the Tasting Table test kitchen although it was certainly easier to get reservations years ago.  Isaac Toups is one of my favorites in New Orleans and he brought some great crawfish dishes to NYC.

crawfish roll, brioche, celery hearts, citrus

crawfish bisque, stuffed crawfish heads

Louisiana crawfish pie, potato puree, herb salad

cinnamon and blood orange “Mardi Gras” hand pie

NYC – 2/26/17 – ALT x Atoboy

The trio of Laurent Gras, Alex Leonard and Tim Dornon, have been doing a series of pop-up dinners in NYC restaurants and have coined the endeavor ALT based on their first initials.  This particular installment was at Atoboy and the menu titled “La Riviera.” This menu was highs and lows with not much middle ground.  The crudo was beautiful and delicious and the nougat one of my favorite desserts in recent history.  But the steamed grains were bland and as if they were missing a multitude of ingredients and the much of the feet, neck and tripe dish I couldn’t even chew.  This was also one of the few times that I was starving after dinner and actually needed second dinner.

soupe de poisson a la niçoise, rouille a l’oursin – saffron fish soup, sea urchin’s rouille

fish crudo, lemon, olive oil, basil

steamed wheat & barley, fermented vegetables with olives

lamb feet, neck, tripe

almond milk, sea salt

frozen nougat

Chicago – 2/24/17 – Au Cheval, Milk Room, and Quiote

Au Cheval
Twice in a week and I don’t live in Chicago. I think I have a problem!

Milk Room
I had been wanting to check out Milk Room, coffee bar by day/spirits by night, since it opened but never planned far enough in advance for a reservation. While perhaps cost prohibitive to visit with any regularity, anyone who appreciates the unique and hard-to-find should love Milk Bar.  And with only a few seats you will get plenty of time to chat spirits with the knowledgeable staff.


Quixote
Yet another excellent addition to the Chicago dining scene for 2017.  We enjoyed some tasty mezcal based cocktails in the basement bar before dinner which is worth going early or staying late to visit.  The avocado salad may not look like much but I could eat it everyday and I somehow forgot how much I enjoyed this bone marrow dish until going though the photos.  Thank you for the excellent hospitality Daniel D!

quesillo y jamon – country ham, queso Oaxaca, escabeche

aguachile – hamachi, pomegranate, walnut, habanero, mint

avocado salad – brussel sprouts, lemon, tomatillo, quinoa

pork collar – pasilla, pinto beans, gem lettuce

bone marrow – avocado, salsa macha, sourdough

chorizo verde – potato, raisin, poblano

Chicago – 2/18/17 – Next Ancient Rome

I admittedly was prepared to dislike this menu based on the report of a dear friend whose visit predated mine.  There have been a few Next menus that have been somewhat polarizing and this seems to be one of them.  My expectations were greatly exceeded and I found myself enjoying the theme much more than I thought I would.  With the Roman Cookery book it all made more sense.  And it did not hurt to be dining with the best man in my life, my dad, who is still up on his Latin.


vinum ex atro candidum facies (honey, cabbage, apple, grape)

herbal rusticae (melon, herbs, liquamen)

cuminatum in ostrea et conchylia (kamut pancake, oyster, pomegranate)
isicia ex sphondylis (mussels, saffron, lardo)
patinam de rosis (rose, white asparagus, rosemary)
aliter tubera elixas et asperso sale gusti de cucurbitis (beets, black truffle, chicken skin)


pisam coques (smoked mascarpone, beans, mackerel)

panem (beef fat, poppy & fennel seed)

isicia de sculls vel de cammeris amplis (shrimp, olives, walnut)

aliter porros (leek, cabbage, butternut squash)

pullus farsilis (quali, spelt, lovage)

embalm in cervinam assam (venison, chestnut, laurel)

sales conduits ad multa (oxtail, turnip, horseradish)

aliter car duos (artichoke, carob, citrus)

gaius octavos gustan de praecoquis (goat cheese, honey, fennel)

domum felix (mastic, taffy, lavender)

Chicago – 2/17/17 – Bad Hunter and elske

Bad Hunter

I had heard mixed reviews of Bad Hunter But I’m very glad that I decided to check it out.  For lunch I absolutely love the menu. Everything was fantastic and I am sure it is even better in the summer with the patio open.


carrots & fennel – pistachio-green Chile pesto, avocado cream, queso fresco

smoked salmon tartine – Meyer lemon creme fraiche, celery root, vadouvan


Elske

I hope that the west loop does not soon run out of real estate with the number of restaurants continuing to open there. Elske is yet another fantastic addition and if the duck liver tart was on the a la carte menu it would be very dangerous.

tea of lightly smoked fruits and vegetables

creamed parsnip with osetra caviar

duck liver tart with buckwheat and salted ramps

leeks vinaigrette with toasted oats, olives and blue mound cheddar

confit bass with white beans, charred squash broth and shaved shiitakes

Our additions to the tasting menu which unfortunately I do not have descriptions of


grilled leg of lamb with broccoli, pickled ramps and butter fried almonds

citrus sundae with toasted milk, barley malt caramel and satsuma

NYC – 2/7/17 – 4 Charles Prime Rib

I first went to 4 Charles specifically for the burger but was so envious of those around me and their amazing looking dishes of prime rib.  So of course I immediately booked a return visit.  Many many years ago I was a big fan of steakhouses but after one too many overcooked pricey pieces of meat I largely stopped trying.  It was lovely to have a fond reminder of why I loved this genre in the first place.  I think I had meat sweats all night and barely slept but it was completely worth it.
 

Shrimp cocktail
4 Charles house salad

Brussel sprouts

Chicago cut

Lemon meringue pie

NYC – 2/5/17 – Fowler and Wells

I thought that Super Bowl Sunday was the perfect day to get into an otherwise perpetually crowded restaurant.  But after criss crossing the city from White Gold and Flora, both of which were closed, I realized we would have to resort to a hotel restaurant.  [Side note that if you are randomly closing post it on your website or social media!]  So we headed downtown for drinks in the beautiful lobby of the Beekman and dinner at Fowler and Wells.  It was absolutely delicious and an easy choice over Augustine next door for future visits to this area.

marinated fluke with radishes and finger limes

chestnut agnolotti with celery root and black truffles

Embarrassingly I cannot remember entree descriptions!

Lamb

NYC – 2/2/17 – Upland

After having a terrible service experience at Upland soon after it opened I vowed not to visit again.  But needing something in the area with last minute availability I gave it a second chance.  The second time was a charm and it couldn’t have been better.


hamachi crudo, radish, yuzu kosho vinaigrette & red sorrel

beef tartare, black trumpet mushroom, puffed farro, anchovy & egg yolk

sausage & kale pizza

little gem salad, avocado, cucumber, ricotta salata & walnut vinaigrette

Chicago – 1/29/17 – the Bristol

The Bristol is one of the first places I dined at when I started making frequent trips to Chicago many years ago.  Happily it is still as good as it was back then and has a really excellent brunch.  Just as the raviolo is a must-order at dinner, do not miss the cinnamon roll at brunch.  It’s as dangerous as the Moscow mules.


Chicago – 1/28/17 – Alinea Kitchen Table

There are a multitude of reasons that Alinea continues to be my favorite restaurant. As many times as I have been there I am always completely surprised by something new. And I always think back to my first visit quite a long time ago which was the first time I dined alone at a ‘nice’ restaurant. I was so nervous that my hand shook until I had finished my initial glass of champagne. But the experience was perhaps the beginning of my career as a ‘professional’ in conquering a very long tasting menu and I have never felt uncomfortable dining alone since.

I am not sure that I will be able to return to the dining room after this dinner at the kitchen table. I saw the space on my last visit but seeing it and sitting in it are quite different. Just completely fantastic especially with a great group of friends. I very much enjoyed again the dishes that I had previously – especially the scallop, corn, butter that I want several bowls of.  While it is not a substitute for black truffle explosion, the gruyere/black truffle/pumpernickel was delicious and filled the void.  And perhaps my favorite of the night was the very understated parmesan/pea/jamon iberico.  Until next time….




osetra, king crab, condiments

quince, parmesan, date

scallop, corn, butter

cornbread, nori

cider, orange, maple

yuzu

parmesan, pea, jamon iberico


kuzu, pompano, shellfish

pork belly, curry, banana

rosemary, hamachi, kombu

blueberry, lapsang souchong, maitake


mastic, concord

*foie

gruyere, black truffle, pumpernickel

short rib, bitter cocoa, cassis

wagyu, rice, myoga

sweet potato, chocolate, miso

bubble gum, cake, banana



chocolate, cherry, bourbon


sesame, brown butter, gold

Chicago – 1/27/17 – Roister and the Loyalist

Roister
When I finally get caught up on my blog I may need to stop the Roister posts as there will be too many.  I feel guilty typing it but we may have had the whole menu x2 (some photos missing) plus a few off-the-menu extras (thank you Chef!).  My previous go-to lunch spots are out the window.



Hushpuppies, corn crema, sour corn, manchego


Hushpuppies, corn crema, sour corn, manchego

Roasted beets, endive tangerine, blue cheese

Chicken noodle soup, mirepoix, meatball, soft cooked egg

Smoked oysters, garlic butter, breadcrumbs

Anson mills grits, key west pink shrimp, crab curry, thai basil

Fried chicken sandwich, sunchoke hot sauce, chamomile mayo

Biscuits and gravy, hearth roasted eggs, green tomato ragout, swiss

Loyalist
Love the people, service, and food.  But I must admit that I feel the burger was overhyped.  Perhaps the fault of my Facebook friends and not the burger.


Winter squash, burrata, pickled honeycrisp

The Loyalist cheeseburger & fries

Apple upside-down cake, sunflower anglaise, creme fraiche

New Orleans – 1/19/17 – Latitude 29 and N7

Latitude 29
The perfect start to a long weekend in NOLA!

N7
I have to start with a disclaimer as the photos do not to justice to N7.  It is a bit off the beaten path and our uber driver was somewhat confused.  Behind a tall fence is the most adorable outdoor space which is the perfect location for a dinner with a group of friends.  Loved everything about this place, but like the band that is fantastic live and not so great recorded, N7 is far better first hand.


sake cured salmon tartine, goat cheese, cilantro

escargot tempura, garlic cream sauce

avocado salad, wasabi dressing

can to table

hamachi carpaccio

duck a l’orange

New Orleans – 1/21/17 – Maypop and August

Maypop
Such a great space totally different from Willa Jean next door but with the same fantastic light making it a perfect brunch spot.  A really great meal with flavors that I tend to gravitate towards.

The Pom Dot Com – gin, aperol, green chartreuse, cava


Chilled buckwheat noodle salad – roasted apple, jumbo lump crab, spicy pickled mirliton, green szechuan

Crispy fried P&J oysters – bourbon barrel soy mash aioli, idiazabal cheese, spicy cucumber

Whole roasted fairytale pumpkin – shaved apple, housemade pancetta, roti bread

Charred lamb with roti


August
I love this dining room and it still is my favorite in New Orleans although the evening lighting is not conducive to photos. A perfect last meal to this trip.

amuse

salad of heirloom beet and apple, bruleed goat cheese, pecan

foie gras prepared three ways

Louisiana stuffed blue crab – andouille, shrimp, black garlic

grilled sea scallop, parsley root, local citrus, pig’s ear

pavlova

NYC – 1/13/17 – Leuca

I have yet to meet an Andrew Carmellini restaurant that I didn’t like.  This is a very large space but is very warm and inviting and the design makes it feel more intimate.  Perhaps one of my favorite spaces so far this year.  If I lived in Williamsburg I would be a regular at the large bar.  As I don’t this may become a regular stop before shows at Brooklyn Bowl.

Italian butter bean dip with wild mushroom sott’aceto

Mussels & clams, italian beer, pepperoni

Smoked beets, pistachio, ricotta salata

Artichokes alla gricia, duck egg, guanciale

18th avenue – mushrooms, parmigiano-reggiano, basil

Penne pugliese, rabbit, black kale, chickpea

Gelato

Sicilian pistachio cake, olive oil ice cream

NYC – 1/11/17 – Nix

Its nice to see a vegetarian spot doing so well as I lean this direction for most of the week (until the meat cravings hit).  There are vegan choices as well but I honestly ignored them.  The spreads were quite good and the gnocchi the definite winner of the dishes we ordered.  I read many positive reviews of the cauliflower tempura but I just didn’t get it as the cauliflower was lost and the sauce was a bit overwhelming.

avocado, mint & curry
red pepper & walnut

shaved brussels sprouts, gran queso & almonds

potato gnocchi, celery root, chestnuts & truffle butter

cauliflower tempura with steamed buns & house pickles

NYC – 1/8/17 – Pondicheri

Unfortunately this was one of the coldest nights of the winter and the back of the restaurant apparently has no heat or insulation.  In fairness we were offered a choice of tables and were warned of the temperature issue.  We definitely did not appreciate how bad it was but why not space heaters?   The food was delicious but my enjoyment was somewhat limited.  Everything arrived at once even though it could barely fit on the table and obviously got cold very quickly.  I am looking forward to a return visit but will wait until the temperature warms up.  And a few visits to the bakery case in the front until then.

E100 sour

complimentary ‘chips’

Roghan josh lamb – lamb & root vegetables stewed with coconut, almonds, yogurt, cardamom & Kashmiri red chili; carrot roti & saffron cucumber raita

chicken cooked in 25 spices & masalas with tomato, fenugreek & white poppy seeds

pistachio apricot naan with cilantro chutney
goat & lentil masala samosa

NYC – 1/7/17 – Sugarfish

I arrived at Sugarfish a bit oblivious as to how ridiculous the lines are.  But luckily it was snowing and I joined the line about 10 min prior to opening and made the first round of seating.  I appreciate Sugarfish as a good stop for lunch after a workout when I am still in gym clothes and want a relatively light lunch.  It is essentially the fast casual version of sushi.  But to wait an hour plus for a text when your table is available, I am baffled.

tuna sashimi

salmon sushi

albacore sushi

yellowtail and hirame sushi

toro hand roll

blue crab hand roll

NYC – 12/30/16 – Momofuku Ko truffle dinner

One of my earliest NYC food memories is of the wonderful truffle tasting menu at old Alain Ducasse at the Essex House.  At the time I couldn’t afford these types of experiences.  But I am blessed to have an aunt & uncle who prefer French restaurants and every time they came to town would invite me to dinner.  I am often asked how I got so into food.  I attribute it partially to the endless hours that I watched the Food Network in its early years.   But my love for fine dining came from these visits to places like Alain Ducasse, Bouley, and Daniel.

Anyway I have been a complete sucker for truffles ever since.  So there is just no way this could have been anything other than fantastic.  It is difficult to pick favorite courses in this amazing menu by Sean Gray (but I would certainly love if the honeynut squash made a reappearance next winter).  Excellent wine pairings from Chase Sinzer and service from the rest of the Ko team.  I wish I could do this one all over again. ❤


chicken oyster – montepulciano white

lobster – mornay, aragon black

otoro – scallion, dashi

scallop – sunchoke, aragon black



honeynut squash – benton’s ham, aragon black

royale – foie gras, naked pruner, montepulciano white

king crab – tofu, montepulciano white

madai – sweetbreads, aragon black, shellfish

dry aged beef – aragon black, lettuce

clementine

buckwheat waffle – montepulciano white, vanilla ice cream

Hozon blondie to go


NYC – 12/27/16 – Atoboy

It took me far too long to get to Atoboy but in my defense I knew I would be able to try much more if not dining alone.  Each orders 3 dishes for $36/person which has to be one of the absolute best deals in Manhattan and additional dishes may be added.  Looking back through my pictures I really loved everything.  There has been so much great tartare in the past year and this version certainly goes on the list.  And I can’t even look at the corn photo without getting serious cravings.  If you haven’t been, do not wait as long as I did.

Tartare – beef, oyster, potato


Leek – doenjang, cheddar, walnut

Fluke – moo radish, pomerol, sesame seed

Squid – pork, shrimp, salsa verde

Sunchoke – oyster mushroom, black truffle, orange

Corn – taleggio, bacon, doenjang

Octopus – kimchi, chorizo, parsley

Chicken – spicy peanut butter, garlic

Pork jowl – barley, ssamjang, romaine

Brisket – foie gras, ginger, garlic

NYC – 12/19/17 – Augustine

I had high hopes for the whisky burger at Augustine based on other reviews but found it to be oddly flavorless which was completely disappointing considering the very high $27 price point.  Thankfully the fries were quite good.  I also did not get the accompanying shot of whiskey that I thought came with it and others at the bar were served.  Such likely would have helped!  The waldorf salad was a bit basic and nothing I would order again considering I have made many far better versions at home.  I love the space and the energy was fantastic.  But in the future I will stick to the lobby at the Beekman (which is gorgeous) or Fowler & Wells.

Waldorf salad – honeycrisp apples, toasted walnuts, celery hearts, Greek yogurt dressing

Whisky burger with single malt scotch braised onions, Comte cheese and pommes frites

NYC – 12/17/16 – Momofuku Nishi

If only it was easier to find the Penicillin in bars.  It is one of my absolute favorite cocktails and is so hard to find that I have made them at home several times (but once I make a batch of ginger syrup I feel obligated to drink them exclusively).  So when there is a Penicillin on the menu the evening is off to a perfect start.

Everything we had I could eat with great regularity.  In fact at a subsequent visit it was difficult to force myself to order different things.  Looking at these photos I am having cravings for the romaine salad and am going to have to go back asap.


Diver scallops – shio kombu, tiger’s milk, cucumber

Raw beef – watermelon radish, dashi ponzu

Romaine – walnut bagna cauda

Butter noodle – chickpea hozon, black pepper

Fried potato & smoked yolk
Jajangmyeon – pork sausage, chili pan mee, fried egg

Bunt cake

NYC – 12/10/16 – Chaan Teng

On the occasions when I have tickets to a show the acceptable options for a pre-theatre dinner are slim.  So I was excited by this new entry (on 48th and 9th) from Pichet Ong who has perhaps been better known for his time as pastry chef at the former Spice Market.  Perhaps too excited as I did not realize that they were still awaiting a liquor license.  An unacceptable error on my part, especially when celebrating a friend’s birthday, but luckily there was a liquor store a few doors down.  Service was a bit spotty but I have to excuse it so close to opening.  And while everything was very good, the General Tso fried chicken was the standout with its super crunchy coating.  I have had a lot of great fried chicken this year and this may have been the best.  I also ranked it in my favorite dishes of 2016.  Next time I may just eat the entire order myself.

Walnut shrimp in lettuce – wild shrimp, honey walnuts, sesame, sweet mayo, bibb lettuce

Charred lo mein with egg and chicken – wok charred egg noodle, cabbage, mushroom soy, Cantonese spices

Dry fry long beans & peanuts – long Chinese green beans, Nyonya caramelized shallots, daikon preserve

Half General Tso fried chicken -with broccoli and ChaanTeng original sauce

Chicago – 12/3/16 – Mott Street

I really enjoyed my previous visit to Mott St. but his time unfortunately not so much.  It was so loud that I could barely hear my dinner companion and by the end of the meal my throat hurt from shouting and I craved silence.  I am able to get past noise issues when the food is worth it, but in this case it just was not.  Not offensive but average.

Cauliflower

Everything wings

Imperial Rolls

(Apologies as have forgotten what this one is)

Szechuan and pepper shrimp

Port Chester, NY – 12/28/16 – Tarry Lodge

Since my family left Westchester I haven’t had a reason to head back to Tarry Lodge.  But one of our favorite bands playing in Port Chester gave us a perfect excuse.  There were some definite service issues but it brought back good family memories.

Crab with piquillo

Beets agrodolce

Burrata with butternut squash & walnut pesto

Goat cheese with pistacios, red onion & truffle honey

Gnocchi with braised shortribs & pecorino

NYC – 12/7/16 – Momofuku Ko

Ko continues to be my favorite restaurant in New York and the one always at the top of my list of recommendations for foodie friends from out of town.  I have stopped including in this blog my many visits for the shorter bar menu otherwise you may tire of these posts, but this trip was for the full menu.  I am still trying to figure out why I like the sea urchin-chickpea dish so much considering I dislike urchin and have texture issues so that this dish on paper is something I wouldn’t even want to try.  After much contemplation I think that the olive oil is the magic component.  The ko egg will never ever get old.  Of the new-to-me dishes on this menu it was a tie for my favorite between the sweet potato-brown butter and beef-au poivre.  If you haven’t been yet, GO.

pomme souffle


lobster paloise

chicken oyster

blackfish – barrel aged bonji

sea urchin – chickpea, hozon

ko egg – caviar

sweet potato – brown butter

beef – au poivre

razor clam – pineapple, basil

bouillabaisse – potato, saffron

duck – squash



foie gras – lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

wild rice – kombu

melon – honey, mint
A

Chicago – 12/2/16 – Oriole

I am so far behind that since this dinner there have been several additional glowing reviews of Oriole.  There isn’t much I can add to those so to sum it up, I concur and absolutely loved it.  Fantastic food, space, service and wine.  And while often overlooked , 2 amazing bread courses.

Golden Osetra Caviar, coconut dashi, lychee and sea grape

Langoustine spring roll with shio kombu, calamansi and mint

Kampachi nigiri with yuzu kosho and genmai

Beef tendon puffed with wagyu tartare and shaved matsutake

Beausoleil oyster, iberico consomme and smoked finger lime

Cardinal prawn, iberico lardo, meyer lemon and fennel


Jamon iberico de bellota, black walnut, egg yolk and campo de montalban

Sea urchin emulsion with bay scallop, cauliflower and anise hyssop

Capellini, white alba truffle, rye berry and yeast

Sourdough, cultured butter, caraway and local grains

Japanese A5 wagyu, charred little gem, furikake and sesame leaf

Lemon tea sorbet with hibiscus, asian pear and bitter greens

Croissant, raclette, apple butter and cardamom

Pistachio gelato with elderflower and puffed rice

Mignardieses

Pie to go

Paris – 11/26/16 – Dersou

Dersou has a vibe that can only be described as ‘hip’ even though I hate that term.  The space is minimal, industrial and casual.  The only choice is among a 5, 6 or 7 course menu although everybody I could see seemed to be doing 7.  Each includes a cocktail pairing per course.    The cocktails were all successful and in smaller portions that worked for this format.  I have recommended Dersou multiple times since this visit to friends who I thought would have fun here.  I’m sure the format isn’t for everyone but I loved it.



Paris – 11/25/16 – Pages and La Bourse et La Vie

Pages
I had an absolutely lovely lunch at Pages.  In retrospect I am not sure i would have enjoyed it so much at dinner.  It has nothing to do with the restaurant itself, but most people seemed to be out to business lunches and so for me it truly felt like a vacation day.  As is too typical I did not take notes but everything was delicious and I always love having a view of the kitchen.




La Bourse et La Vie
It seems that Daniel Rose can do no wrong. As expected truly excellent versions of dishes that I love and could eat meal after meal.

Leeks and hazelnuts

Steak, fries and salad

Paris – 11/24/16 – L’Assiette and L’Arpege

L’Assiette
L’Assiette is exactly what you expect a French bistro to be. This was a perfect lunch although I did eat my body weight in beans.

L’Arpege
I have been trying to reconcile my experience at L’Arpege with some of the less than stellar reviews and think perhaps I just had more realistic expectations.  Just looking at my photos you can tell that there is no crazy plating, modern technique, nothing that is not what it appears to be.  If anything this is 3 star version of comfort food.  So if you come in expecting something different you will likely be disappointed.  Not that such assumption is not warranted by starts and rankings.  What makes Arpege is personality.  It is a dinner party and there is so much energy in the room it is difficult to not have fun if you give in to it.  Before I even sat down Alain Passard kissed me on both cheeks, complimented my dress, and whispered “I am going to cook for you tonight.”  It was impossible not to be completely smitten and subsequently ignore the flaws.  For me this was an absolute perfect Thanksgiving dinner.












Paris – 11/23/16 – Clown Bar and Yam’Tcha

Clown Bar
I did not have a reservation for Clown Bar so went at opening hoping for the best.  It turned out that I was the only person there and due to a maintenance issue they would be opening late.  So I sat down with a book and a glass of wine and tried to acclimate to the slower pace.  If I lived in the neighborhood this is a place that I would visit as much as possible and it was the perfect start to the trip.

*For dinner reservations call just prior to lunch service at noon.

Yam’Tcha
It is the one I was most excited to visit and if I could only return to one place in Paris from this trip, Yam’Tcha would be it.  There is no way that I can describe it better in words than the Chef’s Table episode did so I am not even going to try.  If you can, go.



NYC – 11/18/16 – Marta

I enjoy all of the USHG restaurants for different reasons but what they have in common is that they are always solid and safe choices in a very good way.  The pizza at Marta may not have my favorite crust, but it is still very good and I can polish off one by myself quite easily.  I’m glad I didn’t give up on Marta after the early days when the service was almost dreadful.  A for improvement!


insalata di farro – farro piccolo, grilled brussels sprouts, honeycrisp applies, plave vecchio

suppli al telefono – tomato risotto croquettes, mozzarella

capesante – grilled scallops, romanesco cauliflower, pine nuts

funghi – fontina, mozzarella, hen of the woods, chanterelles, red onion, thyme
salsiccia – pork sausage, cremini mushrooms, pecorino

cookie plate

NYC – 11/16/16 – La Sirena

I went to La Sirena soon after it opened for drinks and was hoping to have dinner at the bar.  But one rude bartender later I found out that food was not yet being served at the bar and I left hungry and cranky.  I probably should have given up on La Sirena after this experience but gave it another try in the dining room.  The NY Strip was fantastic and perfectly cooked.  But the other dishes we ordered were average at best and not at all worth the inflated meatpacking prices.

Tuna crudo, pickled leeks, finger limes, habanero
Wild striped bass in scapece, grapes & mint

Roasted acorn squash, cacio di uova & smoked ricotta

Lardo crusted dry age bone0in NY strip with potato bombolini



A dessert that I unfortunately cannot remember

Washington, D.C. – 11/14/16 – Maketto

As much as my dear friends in DC may dispute it, the food scene is really turning around.  When we couldn’t fathom waiting in line at Bad Saint in the rain, we ended up at Maketto and it was hardly a consolation prize.  A mashup of Cambodian and Taiwanese which results in some delicious dishes in a funky, casual space that is not DC in a great way.  And in the year of fried chicken, another great addition with this fantastic five spice caramel version.

braised pork steamed bao, braised pork, hoisin sauce

crispy gruyere dumplings, chinese beef chili, fermented mustard greens

spicy laab and bone marrow, mixed herbs, spicy ground pork, chilis

wok fried rice noodles, mushroom sauce, local vegetables

maketto fried chicken, five spice caramel, housemade bread

Washington, D.C. – 11/13/16 – Momofuku CCDC & the Dabney

Momofuku CCDC
Much of the improvement in the DC dining scene can be attributed to the opening of branches of restaurants from elsewhere.  And while I try to avoid places that I can find at home, in this case having a Momofuku only a short walk from the convention center was pretty fantastic.

Brisket buns

Momo bap

The Dabney
Once again Bon Appetit’s best new restaurants list has not lead me astray.  The influence of Chef Langhorne’s time at McCrady’s is definitely apparent.  Such a cozy vibe just perfect for a place with only a wood fire.  Everything was wonderful and a repeat visit will certainly be made my next time in DC.


18 month broadbent’s country ham, biscuit & house condiments

Pork rillette, grilled ciabatta, mustard seed, ramps, fennel & herbs

Maryland blue crab, sunchokes, bearnaise & aleppo

Winter squash cooked in the fire, goat feta, walnuts, mustard greens & fresh horseradish

Confit potato salad, broadbent’s bacon, parsley, pickled mustard seed & cured egg yolk

Whistle pig farm pork cabbage wraps – pork loin and shoulder, roasted cauliflower, fermented chili, apple, peanuts, pickles, herbs

Fruit crumble

NYC – 11/10/16 – Grand Gelinaz Shuffle @ Luskus

For the second year, for one night only chefs from across the world switch kitchens.  You buy tickets for a specific location but have no idea who will be cooking until you arrive (or hours earlier if you do enough digging online).  The unknown is incredibly fun and often allows you to have food from a chef whose restaurant may have never been able to visit based on geography, in this case Manu Buffara of Curitiba, Brazil.

Oysters, green strawberry, lime

Leeks, tucupi, chickpeas

Spinach, radish

Sourdough bread and brazil nut butter
Scallops, aspargos, coconut cheese

Cauliflower, nut milk, bottarga

Salad

Chicken liver, beans, potato

Lamb, parsnip, mostard

Watermelon, yogurt, celery

Princeton, NJ – 11/8/16 – elements

I am completely embarrassed that it took me so long to get to elements.  I have visited Mistral downstairs numerous times for drinks and for dinner and have been impressed each time.  I thus went into this dinner with high expectations and they were actually exceeded.  I somewhat still can’t believe that I had this meal in the suburban town where I spend far too much of my life working.  I am looking forward to a return visit as soon as I can talk another colleague into going!



Fluke – horseradish and lemon balm

Spanish mackerel – sunchoke, pickled ginger, mizuna

Lobster – chive, trout roe, parker house roll

Foie gras – brussels sprouts, apple, bacon, acorn squash

Squab – huckleberry, pine mushroom, potato

Ostrich – cumin, shallot, pork jus

Ribeye – hickory smoked, NJ rice, shiso


Wintergreen – custard and berries

Farmers cheese – caramel, hemlock, hazelnut

Bordeaux – 10/28/16 – Chateau Cordeillan-Bages

A somewhat last minute lunch in an absolutely beautiful setting on a gorgeous day.  This was one of the sometimes rare moments when you realize that life is very good.  I loved the contrast in textures in many of the courses, especially the foie and the lobster.  The cheese cart was as lovely as can be expected.  And the mignardise cart was amazing.  All of the caneles please!

Amuse

Butter selection


Monkfish carpaccio, tartare of Medoc oysters and Aquitaine caviar

Warm foie gras in a cereal crust and fig sorbet

Toasted seaweed bread and thinly sliced cuttlefish, roasted sesame seeds broth

Blue lobster roasted with oregano butter, vegetable risotto and coral emulsion

Squab fillet, spiced bouillon, baby vegetables


Cheese!


Pre-dessert

Confit pear with hot chocolate foam, yuzu and hazelnut

Chocolate and cannele

Brussels – 10/22/16 – Alexandre

What an absolutely lovely and unexpectedly fantastic dinner at Alexandre.  Easily the most vibrant plates I have had this year and some awesome surprises like the airy cheese course.  The hard candies to end the meal still bring a smile to my face and I nearly channeled my grandmother and pocketed all of them.  Unfortunately no menu and I did not take notes as usual but many dishes are self explanatory.



San Diego – 9/14/17 – Juniper & Ivy

I hope the Chef’s Counter tasting menu makes a comeback. But regardless I am so happy that Juniper & Ivy exists in what can otherwise be the dining abyss of San Diego.

hoshigaki, serrano ham
graffiti eggplant, ratatouille
sweetbreads, hot sauce
sea urchin, squid ink toast
oyster, pearls

yellowtail, mango, fermented jalapeno, achiote

foie gras, glazed walnuts, poached figs, watercress

porcini mushrooms, soft boiled egg, charred leeks, roasted chicken jus

spot prawn paella, chanterelles, corn, garlic aioli, lardo

ribeye, alaskan fingerling potato, crispy onion rings, broccoli

melon shaved ice

poached pear, fried ice cream

Brussels – 10/21/6 – Bon Bon

As I dine out a fair amount, sometimes the meals tend to run together.  And when it takes me months to complete a blog post, it is not unheard of that I can’t remember anything about it.  Chef Christophe Hardiquest’s Bon Bon was a truly memorable experience.  I had what I thought was the best seat in the house at the chef’s counter which was so close that my bread is literally on top of a ticket in one of my photos.  Dinner started with a long serious of snacks.  They aren’t on my typed menu and I can’t remember all of the ingredients of each, but many are at least partially self explanatory and all were delicious.  There were many great touches in dinnerware such as the egg cup and the multitude of amazing knife handles.  Its funny that I will probably remember those knives forever.  I have a weakness for a cheese cart of any sort, let alone one with this many selections, but a macaroon cart?  Brilliant.  Highly recommend.



Saint-Jacques de Dieppe – Finement tranchees, Chantilly d’echalote, Gaspacho d’huitres

Moules parquees 2016 – A la marollienne

Raviole – A la truffe blanche d’Alba

Coeur de cabillaud – Broccoli, emulsion chaude aux huitres

Caille farcie – Racine de persil, Jus de caille, genevrier-gin

Incredible knife handles.  Each one in the block was different.

Assortiment de fromages


Il n’y a pas d’omelette sans casser des oeufs

Truffe – Mousse de lait cru a la truffe blanche, Opaline de chocolat, Poire pochee


Macaroon cart!