15 – Sportsman’s Club, the Office, Aviary, the Drifter, Celeste

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’m always looking for a reason to head to Chicago so a birthday at crawl was better than most. Unfortunately I somehow didn’t take any drink pictures at my first stop and this is all I ended up with. I was aiming for a background of Pappy but ended up with a deer head. Back to my rural PA roots I guess.

Next we of course headed to the Office and Aviary. So many reasons why I love this place. The drinks of course. Impeccable service. The fantastic people. But also because they raise the bar every single time. I always think ‘how will they top this?’ and inevitably they do. Seriously above and beyond.

Loved this so much. How can you not just laugh at seeing a gatorade cooler where you least expect it ?

Loaded to the Gunwalls – mace, pineapple, hazelnut, Batavia arrack

Next we braved the snow and made our way to the Drifter. Such a cool space and of course I always love a hidden entrance. I hope to get back here soon! Congrats Liz!

And as you can imagine by the time we reached Celeste I had totally forgotten to take pictures of anything!

28Feb2015

Chicago – 12/1/15 – Nico Osteria

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My Chicago Nico posts may have eclipsed my NY Nomad ones and it might be a problem that I have dined here probably far more than any of my Chicago friends. It certainly helps that I often stay at the Thompson but regardless it just quickly became one of my favorites.

Madai Snapper, kohlrabi salsa verde, nasturtium

Stracciatella Fett’unta – Brussels sprouts, lemon honey, trufflebert hazelnuts

Bistecca al’Nico – braised beans, arugula, pecorino, fried egg

Tagliolini – clams, leeks, chile

25Feb2015

Miami – 1/24/15 – Black Brick Chinese

Posted in Miami by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Our last meal before embarking on a 5 day cruise had to be a good one and BlackBrick Chinese was a fantastic choice. While not traditional, it is this type of spin on tradition that when done right makes dishes so much more exciting than those they were influenced by. It turned out that the food we had on the cruise was so terrible that we probably relived this meal at least once a day. I can’t wait to return and will particularly think of those green beans fondly until then.

Starter…some sort of fried goodness

Breakfast fried rice – eggs, breakfast sausage, country potato, cheddar

Spicy dry wok heirloom green beans

Hunan ma la chicken, sichuan peppers & peanuts

Pork cheek dumpling

21Feb2015

Miami – 1/23/15 – Michael’s Genuine & the Cypress Room

Posted in Miami by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
This has been my go-to Miami destination for quite a while. Aside from the food, I love the outdoor space and the non South Beach location. I decided to forego it this trip to get to some new places. But after an Uber disaster and not having enough time to get to my planned pre-dinner cocktail location, we decided to stop here. The renovations look fantastic and it is such an improvement over the previous awkwardly split space.

The Fiddler – Rittenhouse rye, Ferrand Dry Curaçao, grapefruit, basil
Cabarete – aperol, St. Germain, sparkling wine, fresh watermelon, orange bitters

The Cypress Room
Such eclectic decor that somehow all works together. Loved this space (and I wonder if it had anything to do with the small size and close tables making me feel like I was at home). Beautiful cocktails, lighting, and fantastic service. And of course lamb tartare wins me over every time.

Before & After- the Botanist gin, avera amaro, salers apertif, lemon, luxardo maraschino
Go Lightly – Cocchi americano, St. Germain, sparkling wine, lemon peel

Amuse

Grand Aioli – raw local vegetables, petite greens, stone crab

Lamb Tartare – quail egg, toast

The Cypress burger – jasper hill landaff, onion marmalade

Fish – heirloom tomato, cucumber, couscous

Sorbet

19Feb2015

Miami – 1/22/15 – Harry’s Pizzeria, the Broken Shaker, Khong River House, and Blackbird Ordinary

Posted in Miami by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Harry’s Pizzeria
I will be honest, after arriving from the arctic of the northeast US, my first al fresco meal in Miami could have been anything and I would have been thrilled. Lovely salads and a very tasty and light pizza (and I am exceedingly picky about pizza!).
Polenta Fries

Warm Brussels Sprouts & Stracciatella – pears, pistachio, herbs, creamy parmigiano dressing

Kale – roasted beets, onion, goat cheese, sunflower seed dressing, dill

Short rib pizza – cave aged gruyere, caramelized onion, arugula

The Broken Shaker
Such an incredibly cute outdoor space and you would never know that you were in the backyard of a hostel. I loved the small touches like the rosemary infused water. This is a place I could easily hang out in all night if I lived in Miami or was in town for longer.

Long distance call – Bombay gin shaken with strawberry cucumber shrub, allspice infused martini bianco and fresh lemon
Al Pastor AKA Mitchell Rizzo – Olmeca Altos Tequila shaken with spicy chorizo cordial, pineapple, fresh lime and a hint of mezcal

Strega Genesis – Bacardi superior white rum swizzled with liquor strega, basil, lime and celery bitters

Khong River House
My only regret of this meal is that we didn’t take the leftovers back to the hotel for breakfast the next day. We absolutely loved everything and I don’t think I have had a crab rangoon in 15+ years!
Thai 75 – Nolet’s gin, lemongrass, lychee puree, sparkling wine
Thai Garden – lavender infused Beefeater gin, yellow chartreuse, fresh lime, fresh pressed cucumber juice

Mekong Spicy Green Papaya Salad – green papaya, tomatoes, long beans, thai chili, lime, tamarind, garlic, palm sugar, dried shrimp, roasted peanuts & fish sauce

Crab Rangoons

Laotian Drunken Rice Noodles – gingered soy sauce, Paradise Farm vegetables, thai basil

Duck Confit & Chinese sausage fried rice – green beans, sunny side up egg

Blackbird Ordinary
Oddly our hotel bar was not open past 10pm on weeknights so I walked the 3 blocks to Blackbird Ordinary which I had wanted to check out anyway. This would be a cool spot for a concert in the back room or with a group. But I unfortunately made a bad menu choice and this drink was incredibly sweet. I tried to order a second to redeem myself but after 20 minutes or so of trying to get the bartender’s attention I asked for my check and left.
Pink Flamingo – Beefeater gin infused with raw pistachios, house raspberry syrup, fresh raspberries, egg white and lemon

10Feb2015

NYC – 1/20/15 – Atera

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I did perhaps way too much traveling in 2014 and neglected so much of NYC. I’m almost embarrassed to admit how long it has been since my last visit to Atera and I have no excuses as I have nothing but fond memories. Such a fantastic meal start to finish and while its hard to pick favorites, I keep thinking about the smoked mussels with their edible shells and the beet jerky which was a complete revelation. Will Douillet’s presence in just a few months is noticeable and the front of house experience was significantly improved over what I experienced in just a quick trip to the lounge a few months ago. Looking forward to a return visit this spring and taking advantage of what is amazing in NYC.

King crab – satsumaimo, winter cabbage

Caviar – tapenade, burnt cream

Madai – daikon, mushroom

Winter salad – yellow vegetables

Sea urchin – carrot, lobster

Shabu shabu – abalone, mangalitsa

Trout roe – squash, pumpkin seed

Smoked trout – brown butter, liver

Trout liver – apple, brown butter

Lobster roll – yeast, meringue

Geoduck – lardo, air baguette

Pig blood tart – tomato jam, black truffle

Hushpuppy – smoked yolk, corn

Beet jerky – crustacean cream

Smoked mussels – mussel jus, purple carrot

Dumpling – chicken, shrimp

Turbot – curry oil pil

Roasted duck – soured rice, green tea

Sherbet – cara cara, licorice caramel

Milk and crackers – preserved blueberries

Papua New Guinea – brioche, vanilla ice cream

9Feb2015

NYC – 1/15/15 – the Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Of course back at the Nomad bar yet agai!. I may be becoming predictable in NYC. Fantastic as always and for once I exhibited some self control and didn’t have the hot dog for dessert.

Evil Twin Nomader Weisse served w/ traditional syrups

Bay scallops

Broccoli rabe salad with anchovy & Parmesan

Squash toast with ricotta, maitake & apple

Brussels sprouts roasted with smoked lentils & Parmesan

Burger

4Feb2015

NYC – 1/14/15 – Momofuku Ko

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It had quite some time, actually way too long, since I visited the old Ko. So the memory may have faded slightly but it still feels like the new Ko is an entirely new restaurant – the more grown up and refined version of the original. The new space is industrial yet quite homey and I can’t wait to visit in summer when I hope the garage doors will be open. Service is much more friendly than I remember and the chefs a bit more chatty. Of course everything that we ate was fantastic and its difficult to pick favorites, but I am a sucker for soft scrambled eggs. Keep an eye on the reservations as we got lucky fairly last minute. And it didn’t photograph well, but I cannot fail to mention the very unique take-home menu presentation.

Aperitif – verjus, cappelletti, soda

Apple soda

Lobster paloise. Tartlet

Vegetable roll

Millefeuille

Madal – green chile, shiso, consommé

Razor clam – pineapple, basil

Beet – brown butter, anchovy, furikake

Venison – fermented black bean, Brussels sprouts

Mackerel sabazushi – ginger, dashi ponzu

Mushroom – scallop, asian pear

Soft scramble – potato, osetra, herbs. Bread and butter

Celery root – black truffle, tandoori

Branzino – artichoke, sumac, yogurt

Lobster – sweet potato, tonsure, sauce

Foie gras – lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly

Duck – lime pickle, watercress

Clementine – campari

Coconut – banana, rum

Mignardises

29Jan2015

NYC – 1/10/14 – Chef’s Club Studio – Erik Anderson

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I will admit that I don’t really get the concept of the Chef’s Club. When it was first announced I thought it would be more of a rotating pop-up concept. But it is actually a regular restaurant with a menu created by four visiting chefs (selected each year) but helmed by a different executive chef. I’m not sure that I would ever visit just for dinner but I was happy to see that others are supporting it and the dining room was quite full. But there is a separate ‘studio’ space where dinners are hosted when the visiting chefs are in residence and I was lucky enough to reserve a spot for one of Erik Anderson’s dinners. I have regretted not having made it to Catbird Seat while he was there so was thrilled to FINALLY be able to have his food. Expectations certainly exceeded.

The Puck – bourbon, bee pollen, pear, pepper (at the bar pre-dinner)

Maine diver scallops – raw & cooked

Potato – creme fraiche, caviar

Squab liver Bon-Bon

White truffle porridge – Danish rye bread, goat butter, hickory nuts, tonka bean

Tart – potato, black truffle

Pike – onions, roasted chicken skin bouillon, preserved lemon

Roasted pigeon – cranberry, juniper, chestnut, turnip, pine

Hay custard – roasted sweet grass hay, fresh cream, barrel-aged maple syrup

Burnt sugar and Rosemary pudding – buttermilk, pecan, sable

Wine Pairing
Raventos I Blanc ‘de nit’ Rose Cava 2012
Les Granges Paquenesses Cremant Du Jura Brut NV
Lanson ‘Black Label’ Champagne Brut NV
Domaine De La Pinte, ‘La Capitaine’ Arbois 2011
Charles Joguet ‘Cuvee Terroir’ Chinon 2012
Vinhos Barbeitos, Rare Wine Co. ‘Historic Series’ Savannah Verdehlo NV

20Jan2015

Chicago – 1/3/15 – the Bristol, Juno, Aviary & the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The Bristol
I’ve been meaning to get to the Bristol for brunch ever since they started offering it. But as happens in NYC, I often don’t get back to the old favorites because I am always trying something new. I wish that the hangover breakfast had more broth but was able to console myself with duckfat fries. Although those give me opportunity to comment on one of my biggest dislikes – homemade ketchup. I truly do appreciate the effort, but nothing homemade will ever be better than Heinz (which has nothing to do with my PA heritage).
Hangover breakfast, noodles, pork broth, shrimp mousse, aromatic vegetables

braised pork chilaquiles, fried egg, lime, cilantro, queso fresco

home made sausage

Duck fat fries

Juno
Whenever I have previously mentioned a visit to Juno, the first question I was asked was whether I did the omakase menu. So finally I can say that I have and it was as good as my high expectations going in. Thank you to all of my Chicago friends for making sure I did it. BK you are amazing. And a huge thank you to Jason for just being awesome. Looking forward to my next trip.

Aviary and the Office
Unfortunately I skipped dessert at dinner planning to have 5+ BTEs when I got to Aviary. So unbelievably disappointing to realize that they were immediately removed from the menu when the Trio menu ended at Next. You guys know I adore you, but couldn’t we have had 2 days of advance notice?? I would have stocked up earlier in the week. Enough cannot be said about Julia’s amazing origami garnishes in the Office and Micah’s final drink of the evening still reigns weeks later as the best thing I have had to drink in 2015.

16Jan2015

Chicago – 1/2/15 – Nico Osteria, the lounge @ Sixteen, and The Berkshire Room

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Nico Osteria
How completely predictable to find myself back here again. But when you have friends who haven’t been it’s the perfect justification.
Madai snapper – kohlrabi salsa verde, nasturtium

Endive salad – butter lettuce, hazelnut, pear, ribiolina

Bar Harbor Mussels – vermouth, almond butter

Rigatoni -northern ragu

The lounge at Sixteen
Sixteen is at the top of my to-do list as soon as spring hits Chicago and it is warm enough to at least set foot on the terrace. But even in winter this is the best view in Chicago. The absolute perfect evening to be enjoying a glass of Dom Perignon with the best possible view of one of my favorite buildings in Chicago. Thank you Doug for taking such good care of us!

Cheese

Berkshire Room
Definitely one of my Chicago favorites! A great evening catching up with friends old and new!

16Jan2015

Chicago – 12/31/14 – Little Goat and Sepia

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Little Goat
I finally, finally ordered something other than the parathus burrito. I may have a new favorite….seriously awesome salad!
The chickpea – kale, chopped veggies, montamore cheese, tzatziki, chee vinaigrette, chicken

Sepia
After a last minute change in NYE dinner plans, we found ourselves dining at the bar at Sepia. Of course it being NYE there was a set 4 course menu. The squash tart and sausage were both course 2 and of course both desserts are represented in the photos. Overall a lovely start to the evening. And that rabbit sausage was to die for!
amuse

kona kampachi ceviche, smoked jalapeño, coconut milk

kabocha squash tart, multigrain sable crust, brown butter

rabbit sausage, black truffle, celery root, truffle jus

beef short rib “au poivre,” yukon gold potato puree

pear, chestnut, caramelized fennel, olive oil jam

chocolate date cake, creme fraiche, hazelnut, honey

And a big thank you to Greg for hosting, and Michelle and Brian for organizing, an amazing NYE party!

15Jan2015

Chicago – 12/30/14 – Nico Osteria and Next

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’m not sure I could even count on one hand the number of meals I have had in a hotel in all of my travels. For the most part I do my best to avoid the restaurants and the suggestions of every front desk clerk and concierge that offers to make me reservations. But its too difficult to pass up Nico Osteria when staying at the Thompson, especially when you don’t have to put on a coat and brave the frigid Chicago temps to get there. The minestrone photographed poorly but this was the best soup I have had all winter and is one of those dishes I could eat everyday until spring. And a salad that rivals the aesthetics (and taste) of Nico’s crudo. The perfect pre-nap meal.

Minestrone – poached egg, pancetta, Parmesan

Marinated beet salad – salami toscano, frisée, clockshadow caprino, mint

As this was my second time having Next’s Trio menu I won’t re-post photos. I will just say this menu moves fairly close to the top of my rankings of all of them. And in 2016 could we please do a Greatest Hits menu????

14Jan2015

NYC – 12/21/14 – Daniel

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My first trip to Daniel since their loss of a star. I tried to find a reason for it compared to my previous visits and couldn’t. But so much is subjective. There was perhaps one dish that I didn’t feel was the most successful. But service was impeccable, perhaps better than ever. Again my downfall seems to be that with certain dining companions I can’t be bothered making notes or writing down dishes. I fear so much being the unsocial and rude diner on her phone the entire meal that I default as far away from this as possible. Someday I hope to find a balance.

8Jan2015

NYC – 12/20/14 – Ai Fiori

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It had been way too long since I visited Ai Fiori and it admittedly fell off of my radar until some friends from out of town recently dined there. A perfect choice for catching up with family who prefer a more formal setting and a dining room where you can actually hold a conversation. While the entire meal was fantastic, perhaps predictably it was the Tartufo Bianco Tagliatelle that was the stand out dish. As I have said before, minimal ingredients executed perfectly often tend to be the most memorable (plus I honestly could eat truffles on almost anything). I did have a lovely cheese plate for dessert but evidently was sidetracked by an extra dessert wine and forgot all about a picture. A big thank you to Colin and Edward for the incredible service!

Blessed Thistle – cardamaro, michter’s rye, lemon, egg white

Amuse

Crudo di Dentice – red snapper crudo, garlic crema, crispy shallots, trout roe

Tartufo Bianco Tagliatelle – pasta ribbons, butter, parmigiano (before and after)

Vitello – amish veal chop “au four,” new potatoes, prosciutto, sage

8Jan2015

NYC -12/18/14 – Mu Ramen and the Happiest Hour

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Mu Ramen
I haven’t put so much effort into a restaurant reservation in ages. 65 calls to get through. And while I don’t want to do it again anytime soon, it was sort of fun in an old school kind of way (and gave my co-workers a bit of entertainment). Notes: Wait until 4pm to call and yes they still take walk-ins.
As for the chicken wings, fried and foie? Yes please! Loved loved both ramens that we tried. Both completely different but equally fantastic. Looking forward to a return trip now that their liquor license has been granted!

Tebaski Gyoza – deep fried chicken wings stuffed with foie and brioche

Shishito peppers with lemon aioli

And the main event

The Happiest Hour
The happiest hour it was not. Upon entering we were met by a gentleman who demanded to take our coats without so much as a greeting. The space can become extremely crowded even on a weeknight and was so loud that it was difficult to hear my friend who was directly beside me. My cocktail was well made and quite good but after one I couldn’t tolerate the noise any longer. So we proceeded to the door, handed our coat check ticket to the gentleman standing there who disappeared for quite some time and then returned to ask us what our coats looked like. When he still couldn’t find them he started almost yelling at us to tell him what the person looked like who took our coats in the first place. So 15 minutes later, after we went to the coat room in the basement ourselves and still couldn’t find them, absolutely no apologies and we were essentially accused of giving our coats to somebody who didn’t work there. Long story short, it was the same guy who originally took our coats but was trying to cover his ass. Mix ups happen and if there would have been even a simple apology I wouldn’t be writing about this. But the attitude was so completely offensive and inhospitable as if it was somehow our fault that they misplaced our coats that we didn’t even want to check in the first place. If you must visit, wait until summer.
Fall From the Tree – bourbon, apple juice, cinnamon, lemon, aromatic bitters

7Jan2015

Seattle – 12/13/14 – Sitka & Spruce and Westward

Posted in Seattle by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Sitka & Spruce
On a surprisingly warm and beautiful December day Sitka & Spruce was a lovely walk from my hotel. It makes up one part of a large space which houses several other concepts and for a moment it was a bit difficult to tell where exactly it was. The room is bright and perfect for brunch which is when I happened to visit. While my salad perhaps wasn’t the most exciting, it was well made and the fantastic soft scrambled eggs have me hooked to return for dinner.

A salad of young lettuces, ash roasted shallot and hazelnut

Seared halloumi, soft scrambled eggs, brussles & chili vinegar

Westward
My photos do not even begin to do justice to the incredible diorama that makes up the back of the bar. Unfortunately by sunset the day became a bit to chilly to sit outside although they do have blankets. But it seems that Westward may be Seattle’s even better version of my Chicago favorite Big Star, i.e. Perfect for Sunday Funday (and really any other day). I’m happy to say that this year’s Bon Appetit best new restaurants list hasn’t let me down yet! The gigantes beans are amazing and lamb with tzatziki may be my last meal so this dish was perfect.

Jar of house pickled fruits & vegetables

Wood baked gigantes beans, tomato, feta, marjoram

Braised Anderson Ranch Lamb Shoulder, herb & onion salad, pomegranate, tzatziki, pita

House made sorbet

5Jan2015

Seattle – 12/12/14 – Barnacle, the Walrus & the Carpenter and Canon

Posted in Seattle by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Barnacle
What an absolutely lovely spot to enjoy a cocktail while waiting for a seat at the Walrus & the Carpenter. I only regret not returning after dinner for another drink with so many amaros to choose from.

Cobble hill variation – fernet branca, carpano antica, bitter lemon soda

The Walrus & the Carpenter
I had wanted to visit for what seems like ages but a trip to Seattle just never materialized. So when I found myself needing a few thousand more miles before the end of the year it was the perfect excuse. An absolutely perfect meal and a waldorf salad that I could eat every single day (and my mother will attest that I actually hate waldorf salad).

Carrots,meta, caraway, mint

Waldorf salad, cabbage, hazelnuts, pear, dill

Scallop crudo, radish, smoked almond tarator, olio nuovo

Steelhead salmon tartare, horseradish creme fraiche, rye

Maple bread pudding, espresso butter sauce, whipped cream

Canon
I was exceptionally lucky to almost immediately get a seat at the bar on a Friday night, especially after being quoted a 30 min wait. Canon truly is a whisky and bitters emporium and so many bottles made for a lovely view. I loved the bottled sparkling last word as a slight variation on one of my all time favorite cocktails.

Sparkling last word

Angostura-bourbon nuts

And my favorite quote of the day:

4Jan2015

Chicago – 12/7/14 – XOCO Wicker Park and Blackbird

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

XOCO Wicker Park
XOCO has been my favorite lunch spot ever since I started to visit Chicago regularly. Until recently it was also my first stop after arriving in town and checking into my hotel. So of course I had to check out the new location to see how it compared. Just based on location I will likely stick to the original, but I am very happy to have this option for my Sunday cravings. Another great addition to Wicker Park!

Sikil Pak – pumpkin seed, roasted tomato, sour orange, habanero w/ cucumber, jicama and tortilla chips

Fully dressed guacamole – spicy roasted poblano & Serrano, chicharron, pepitas, smoky bacon, queso fresco, crunchy-spicy kohlrabi, grilled onion, sun-dried tomato

Wood roasted chicken Pozole – gunthorp chicken, Pozole, crunchy garnishes, crushed red chile, lime

Short rib red chile caldo – braised short ribs, red chile broth, roasted vegetables, epazote, wild arugula, lime

Blackbird
I didn’t plan it at the time, but as I’m writing this I realize this was old favorites day. I’m not sure how many years ago it was, but Blackbird is the first Chicago restaurant that I really remember visiting. But with every subsequent trip I’ve always been trying new places and have put out of mind the oldies but goodies. So when a friend who had never been suggested it I was more than happy to revisit this old favorite. It was fairly quiet so I hope only because it was a Sunday and not because others have forgotten about Blackbird as well.

Mushroom panisse with grapefruit, chervil, and shellfish emulsion

Ivory char crudo with smoked char roe, turnip, green grape, pearl onion, and pumpernickel

Celery root soup with grilled lobster, preserved lemon, celery and marigold

Oil poached walleye with parsley root, hazelnut, radish, chickweed and spicy coppa

Smoke brined chicken breast and black truffle-taleggio sausage with carrots, pecans and dill

Grilled lamb loin with cucumber, trumpet mushrooms, mustard, chickpea and sorrel

Milton creamery ‘prairie breeze’ cows milk white cheddar with toasted sourdough crumpet, horseradish butter, quince and amaranth

Amaro and fennel sorbet with pomegranate and thyme tapioca

Grilled pear with brown butter oat cake, quark ice cream, hazelnut trail mix, and ginger

4Jan2015

Chicago – 12/6/2014 – 42 grams and the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

42 grams
I was very fortunate to have made this reservation prior to the release of the 2015 Michelin Guide. Once again I had a truly fantastic experience at 42 grams and a huge congratulations to Jake and Alexa on their 2 stars. So well deserved! I can’t wait for the next menu.

Crispy snacks – pecorino crisp, Vidalia onion parchment, fish-n-chip

Perky toe crab – tomatillo, avocado, jicama, toastada, espelette pepper

Mojama de Atun – frozen sweet pea, seabuckthorn, apricot kernel, oxalis

Flavors of the Sea – red spot prawn, smoked roe, caviar, phytoplankton, sea vegetables

Green Curry – white sturgeon, jasmine rice, chicken skin, cashew

Skuna Bay Salmon – tea smoked with fallen pine, matsutake mushroom, spent grain, dash

Cultured Barley Porridge – pig heart, jowl, enoki, grains, grapefruit, mugolio

Veal Sweetbread – foie gras, black truffle, ash-baked eggplant, ground cherry

A5 Miyazaki Wagyu – bone marrow, beef tendon, umeboshi, baby boo choy

Matcha Green Tea – sesame, yuzu

Tart – kalamansi, oxalis blossom, honey

Sweet – candle, tamarind, brown butter, roasted banana, hazelnut, bubblegum hyssop

Coffee

The Office
As usual amazing off menu drinks by the lovely Julia Momose and more glassware that I covet. And I somehow managed to make room for a Wagyu tartare nightcap.

29Dec2014

Chicago – 12/5/14 – Dove’s Luncheonette, The Drawing Room, Parachute, and Aviary

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Dove’s Luncheonette
I had wanted to visit Dove’s on my previous trip to Chicago but for some reason never made it and had regretted it. So it was the first stop for this trip. This corner of Wicker Park certainly now has a lot of great dining options. I was very curious to see how the Pozole would compare to the XOCO one that I love, and was happy to see that it was very different, and so there was no need to even draw comparisons and I could just enjoy!

Apple celery salad

Back to Life Cocktail

Chili con carne

Pozole rojo

The Drawing Room
I have no idea how this was my first and only visit to the Drawing Room as it is imminently closing. No definitely regret it, especially as it’s only a few steps away from the Thompson where I often stay.

Parachute
Thankfully Parachute began taking limited reservations.

White beets, umbeoshi, cashew, cocoa nibs

Baked potato bing bread, bacon, scallion, sour cream butter

Cured cobia, mandarin, green radish, Korean chili

Pork belly and mung bean pancake, kimchi, black garlic, hen egg, pineapple

Smokey thick cut kalbi, honey, crispy shallots, shoos

Hand torn noodle, spicy lamb soffits, Sichuan peppercorn, cumin

Almond shortbread bittersweet chocolate, persimmon, chestnut mousse

Aviary
Organized Chios – Rosemary, chartreuse, Armagnac, mastic

O’Doyle Rules – fried banana, clarified banana, curry, rum, cognac

Hay is for Horses – maple, gin, grapefruit, rose, horseradish

Death Row – shaken, stirred and brewed last words

BTE

27Dec2014

Amsterdam – 11/29/14 – Tales & Spirits and Cafe Modern

Posted in Amsterdam by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Tales & Spirits
Very happy to find even more great cocktails in Amsterdam! Another very cute spot off of a small side street. Be warned the small bar portion is first come, first served with the remainder of the space reserved for dinner bookings. A very creative menu and I wish I could have tried more cocktails just to see what the presentations were. Next trip!

Quiz Fizz – Tanqueray gin, Luxardo maraschino, lime juice, vanilla syrup, egg white, Bittermen’s grapefruit bitters, Fever tree elderflower tonic

Bird is the Word – Bacardi 8 rum, yellow chartreuse, St. Germain, lime juice, egg white (At least I hope I got this right a month later as I didn’t actually order but let my server do so for me!)

My favorite page from the menu –

Cafe Modern
The trip to Cafe Modern involved a short ferry ride from behind the train station and a rather desolate 15 minute walk during which I checked my phone 10 times to make sure I was headed in the correct direction. Amazingly I arrived in time for my reservation. Such a lively bustling dining room and while I was the only person dining alone and I would guess likely the only tourist, I was made to feel incredibly welcome. The set menu was in Dutch, so no descriptions below. My lovely server did translate but I would have been happy to just see what appeared. Again an incredible value for the quality of food at only €40 plus an €11 supplement for the cheese course.

27Dec2014

Amsterdam – 11/28/14 – Restaurant As, Hiding in Plain Sight, and Gebr. Hartering

Posted in Amsterdam by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Restaurant As
Restaurant As is located slightly outside of the city center, easy enough to get to via tram, but far enough that I was left wondering if I was headed in the right direction when I started down a fairly desolate path into a park. The restaurant occupies a former church from the ’60s in a circular shape with communal tables arranged as spokes from the center. The kitchen is outdoors, where much of the activity is in summer, but it does result in a rather drafty winter space. Unfortunately I again didn’t write down the dishes, and they change daily. But the salad was lovely and vibrant and the pasta perfect for the chilly day.

Hiding in Plain Sight
What luck to find fantastic cocktails just a few doors down from my planned dinner reservation. The space is charming, the staff all lovely and the type of place where I would be a regular if I lived in the neighborhood.

Domfrontais Sour – Domfrontais Calvados, Pear Eau de Vie, Apple, Pear, Anis Syrup, Lemon Juice

Plum-Rye Fix – Bulleit Rye infused with Plum, Plum Vinegar, Ginger Syrup, Lemon Juice, Peach Bitters

Gebr. Hartering
I paid attention to the menu only for long enough to choose between the 6 or 9 course options. When a meal involves a flight, I tend to adhere to the ‘go big or go home’ philosophy. I still cannot get over want a value this dinner was at €75 for the 9 courses. Fortunately most are self-explanatory as I yet again forgot to write down all courses.

21Dec2014

Amsterdam – 11/27/14 – Restaurant Anna & Door 74

Posted in Amsterdam by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Restaurant Anna
I was somewhat skeptical of Restaurant Anna as soon as I realized that it was located in the very touristy part of the city. Generally I avoid eating in these areas no matter where I am. However once inside the tourists seemed far away and the space was much more warm and inviting than it appeared in pictures. An absolutely lovely meal and great start to this trip.

Snacks

Bitterballen amuse

Salmon marinated in limoncello and sea salt with compote of celery and ginger, froth of lemongrass, Dutch shrimps and crunch of peanuts, coconut and curry

Roast venison with jam of red cabbage, mashed potatoes, mushrooms and sauce P.X. Sherry

I also had a great dessert which I evidently dug right into before taking a picture.
Apple taste tatin with caramel sauce, almond and Tahiti vanilla ice cream

Door 74
As the day went on and I didn’t get a response to my reservation request I was getting a bit nervous that I wouldn’t get in. But I finally heard back and set off to try to find the unmarked entrance to Door 74. I was actually stumped for a few minutes even though I should be an expert in this by now. Definitely the coolest menu I have seen in a while, continuing the space theme throughout. But the only photo that turned out as the space was incredibly dark.

20Dec2014

NYC – 11/20/14 – Osteria Morini

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

There is no better way to begin dinner than to be asked if its ok if the chef just cooks for you. And its even better when you are presented with a large menu but are too involved in conversation to even look at it. For this reason I don’t have descriptions of a few dishes as they were off menu. For those I do know, in the spirit of the evening I’m not going to label them either. Sure I could have taken notes when the servers presented dishes, and perhaps that would have been the responsible thing to do in order to keep up with this blog. But for once it was lovely just to enjoy dinner and the company without such distractions.

17Dec2014

NYC – 11/19/14 – Tuome

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Yet another fantastic new addition to the east village. The unfortunate downside is that it is so far east that in the dead of winter it will require an enormous amount of willpower to make the trek. However thoughts of the Pig Out will lure me back. Yes the name may be a bit gimmicky, and I wish there was a portion for 1, but it was certainly delicious and lived up to my high expectations from the early reviews. Tuome somehow feels like a perfect fit for the east village yet too refined and complex for the location at the same time.

Amuse

Egg – deviled, crispy, chili

Oxtail – spring roll, bone marrow, cumin

Octopus – pork xo, brown butter, fingerling potato

Pig Out (for two) – Berkshire pork, spicy peanut noodle

Brussels sprouts – grape, pork xo, raisin

15Dec2014

NYC – 11/16/14 – Root & Bone

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I enjoyed Root & Bone so much for dinner that I had to return for brunch when it was finally added. The menu contains quite a few items from the dinner menu but there are some new ones as well. Be prepared for a lengthy wait despite how quickly they turn tables.

Marquee – gin, honeydew, lemon, sparkling wine & absinthe rinse
Applejack smash – applejack, maple syrup, muddled lemon, mint & peychaud’s bitters

Drunken deviled eggs

Rainbow beets & other roots salad – ricotta creme, citrus, tart apple, watercress & smokey candied pecans

Bird – sweet tea brined, lemon dusted, spiked Tabasco honey

Braised short rib meatloaf & eggs – parsnip root mash, slow poached eggs, horseradish, tomato ketchup jam

Sticky toffee pudding

14Dec2014

NYC – 11/14/14 – Little Park

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I try to shy away from visiting restaurants right after opening preferring that they work out the kinks on somebody other than me. And more often than not I’ve been burned when deviating from this rule. However I found myself in the neighborhood of Little Park during its opening week so decided I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. After admittedly being disappointed by Andrew Carmellini’s Lafayette I am happy to say that experience has been wiped from my memory. Everything we tried was delicious and some of the plating, such as the butternut squash, is much more refined than I was expecting. And the fall sundae is even better than it sounds. I will definitely be going back for that before the season is over.

Apple buck – James Oliver rye, Strega, lemon, red jacket orchards Apple cider, dandelion & burdock bitters, fever tree ginger beer

Crispy Brussels sprouts – smoked parsnip, apple

Endive – pear, walnut, sheep cheese

Butternut squash – burrata, nasturtium

Roasted sunchokes – hazelnut, black trumpet

Whole wheat spaghetti – pork, cabbage

Fall sundae of Apple & beer

9Dec2014

NYC – 11/13/14 – Push Project Part V – The Art of Masa w/ Rick Bayless

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have enjoyed every Push Project since Alex Stupak started them at Empellon Cocina. The basic idea is that every few months he will invite a guest chef to collaborate on a dinner that pushes them both outside of their boundaries. Unfortunately it has gotten much more difficult to score a reservation and sadly no preference seems to be given to past attendees. But luckily a friend had more success than I did and we finally made it off of the wait list. Rick Bayless is one my favorites and such an obvious choice for this series that I am surprised it didn’t happen earlier. I was slightly skeptical of a whole menu based on masa but I thoroughly enjoyed this entire dinner, perhaps most surprisingly the desserts. Although my favorite dish of the night might have been a component devoid of masa – the trout rillettes.
Being in November and a Chicago chef collaboration, I started reliving last year’s Thanksgiving Push Project with Chef Achatz. I tried to not make any comparisons as its not fair to compare two totally different experiences. But that was still hands down the best Push Project and now that a year has passed can I PLEASE have the recipe for the Kabocha Cornucopia?? And while I’m making requests how about a Tortas Frontera at EWR terminal C?

Heirloom masa crackers – smoked steelhead trout rillettes, trout roe guacamole

Sand and Sea – fluke green ceviche (serrano, three herbs, two citrus), tortilla sand

1491

Enmoladas – tortillas enrobed in oaxacan green mole, steamed wild striped bass, white ayocote beans, chayote, herbs

Mole Negro – roasted Elysian Fields lamb, oaxacan black mole (three chiles plus 28 other ingredients), camote mash, roasted eggplant, masa spaeztle

Porridge – leftover tamales simmered in chicken broth, sherry vinaigrette, white truffles

Guava Atole – guava-masa pudding cake, mexican guava, guava-atole ice cream, masa tuple

Masa Sorbet – piloncillo, lychee crema, coffee

2Dec2014

NYC – 11/10/14 – Tertulia

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Revisiting another old favorite that I haven’t been to in far too long. This winter I really need to make more of an effort to forego the new places. I’m happy to say it’s as good as I remember. The dishes missing descriptions were specials and as usual I regret that I didn’t make notes.

Ensalada de Otono

Huevos Diablo

Lamb meatballs, almonds, migas, roasted tomatoes, sheep’s milk cheese

30Nov2014

NYC – 11/9/14 – the Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Finally the Nomad Bar has started brunch and somehow I managed to be the first in the door for the inaugural Sunday. Of course starting Nomad cocktails at noon may not be the best idea, but we loved the menu additions and those we sampled were all fantastic. My only continuing complaint is that nothing on the dessert menu sounds better than having the hot dog as dessert.

Espresso martini – bitter chocolate infused cognac, cold brew coffee, creme de cacao, Kahlua
Bitches Brew – rye, cold brew coffee, zwack, mole bitters

Bay Scallops – marinated with yuzu & pistachio (could eat these all day)

Brussel sprouts – roasted with smoked lentils & Parmesan

Baked eggs – chèvre & fall squash

Short rib – hash, potatoes & duck egg

Hot Toddy – scotch, Benedictine, peychauds bitters, spices

Hot Buttered Rum – Venezuelan rum, compound butter, fall spices

And for dessert because why not?
Hot dog – bacon wrapped with black truffle & celery

25Nov2014

Princeton, NJ – 11/4/14 – Agricola

Posted in Princeton by Mary Lynne Kupchella

As I spend everyday there I am trying to visit the Princeton spots worth visiting. There were things I really liked about Agricola, but a few I just couldn’t get past. The cocktails were surprisingly good as were the starters. But in November I expect a ‘fall squash’ flatbread to contain butternut or acorn, not what I consider summer squash. And while the cranberry walnut bread pudding sounded delicious it was oddly flavorless and spongy (hence no photo).

Great Road Farm Slow Roasted Beets – coach farm goat cheese, spicy carrots

Kale salad – roasted delicate squash, shaved radish, toasted pumpkin seed vinaigrette

Manchester Farms Quail – polenta, salsa verde

Striped Bass – turnip chowder

Fall squash flatbread – sweet potato, arugula-pecan pesto, house made maple ricotta

24Nov2014

Washington, DC – 11/2/14 – DBGB and Rasika

Posted in Washington, D.C. by Mary Lynne Kupchella

DBGB
Sometimes when you have been out too late and maybe had one too many drinks, you need an old favorite. Even though the DC DBGB is new it still fit the bill. And while it had my NY favorites, executed perfectly, there were slight differences which kept it from feeling like a chain.

Chop chop – romaine, avocado, shishito pepper, carrot, Asian pear, ginger-sesame dressing

Hand cut steak tartare

Tuna crudo – Harissa-sesame sauce, cucumber radish, crispy rice

Brioche French toast – spiced apple compote

Smoked salmon – everything bagel, cream cheese, caper, red onion

Tunisienne sausage – spicy lamb & mint merguez, lemon-braised spinach, chickpea

The Yankee – iceberg, tomato, vidalia onion, sesame bun

Sundaes!

Rasika
It has probably been years since I have had Indian food and other than the chai, this certainly made me wonder why it’s been so long! Unfortunately sleep deprivation has caught up to me and I can’t remember what all of the dishes were so a few are missing descriptions. They were delicious whatever they were!

Palak Chaat – crispy baby spinach, sweet yogurt, tamarind, date chutney

Cauliflower Bezule – mustard seeds, green chilis, curry leaves

Honey ginger scallops – burnt garlic, red pepper

22Nov2014

Washington, DC – 11/1/14 – minibar and barmini

Posted in Washington, D.C. by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have wanted to go to minibar probably since it originally opened but DC being fairly close has worked against me. As hopping on Amtrak requires little advance notice I’ve just never planned a trip to DC far enough ahead of time to make reservations. Perhaps for the best to now be able to visit barmini as well on the same evening. Some really great beverage pairings as I knew there would be and some very memorable courses. My 2 favorite courses weren’t really courses at all but brought back childhood memories. The first was pressed ‘flowers’ in a book presented in the lounge. The second a shrunken hand towel which expanded with hot water just like the capsules that expanded to sponges in the bathtub (I’m sure my brother and I went through hundreds).

Pressed flowers

Hot and cold pisco sour

Parmesan canele

Pineapple shortbread

Pizza margarita

Almond tart with blue cheese

Rubber ducky

Late night Chicken Shawarma

Burger

Vietnamese Pig Ear

Painkiller

Hot towel

Fusilli

Shabu shabu

Iberico Tendon

Espardenyes with Bone Marrow

Beech mushroom Papilllot with Truffle

Squab and Oysters

Bonne Bouche Cheese Puff

First Frost

Breakfast in Hokkaido

Sesame Pocki

Raspberry Chocolate Bar, Yuzu-Mallow, Raspberry Wasabi Bon Bon

Doughnuts

Whiskey Bottle

Cotton candy birthday cakes for the party beside us

16Nov2014

Washington, DC – 10/31/14 – Rose’s Luxury

Posted in Washington, D.C. by Mary Lynne Kupchella

While I’m not sure if Bon Appetit’s annual top 10 best new restaurants are actually the best in the country, I have never been disappointed in any of them. Rose’s Luxury was no exception. We arrived a half hour before opening and when doors opened we were able to put our names on the list for later in the evening (although by this time the line had to have been a block long). With a group of five we were able to order almost the whole menu. Lovely friendly service and expectations exceeded.

Kumamoto oysters w/ green apple & wasabi granita

Pork sausage, habanero & lychee salad

Charred broccoli w/ Caesar dressing & white anchovies

Jerk chicken, pickled mango raita, green papaya salad

Whole grilled quail w/ fall greens & mulled cider glaze

Cacio e Pepe

Sfoglini rigatoni w/ Parmesan cream & breadcrumbs & truffles (had to order double!)

Martello spaghetti w/ tomato, spicy lobster & mint

Honey glazed carrots, marscarpone, matzo meal & dill

Caramelized cauliflower, Greek yogurt & some other stuff

Fried rice salad w/ Asian pear, raw cabbage & country ham

Smoked brisket, white bread, horseradish & slaw

Our extra course

Asian pear-butterscotch “napoleon”

15Nov2014

NYC – 10/25/14 – Marta

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’m always excited to check out a new Danny Meyer place although in this case I was a bit skeptical as I am of all new pizza places. The food was all great, especially the pizza (and I dislike far more than I like). Unfortunately the service was dreadful. My pizza cooled while I waited 20+ minutes for my water glass to be refilled, and when I finally was able to get my servers attention to ask it took another 5 min for her to reappear. And of course I was never asked if I wanted another cocktail. I hope these were just opening kinks that will be quickly worked out.

La Certosa – green & yellow chartreuse, AMA Bionda Ale & lemon

Polo – charred octopus, sun chokes, oranges, castelfranco

Patate Alla Carbonara – potatoes, guanciale, black pepper, pecorino, egg

11Nov2014

NYC – 10/24/14 – Le Bernardin

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

How absolutely lovely to find myself just a few blocks from Le Bernardin with an hour lunch break. The prix fixe City Harvest lunch may be the best $45 you can spend in NYC. I am always surprised by how generous the portions are as they could easily get away with serving half of what they actually do. Unfortunately my lack of timely updates to this blog has finally caught up to me as I didn’t write down the dishes and the online version is long outdated. Regardless everything was as perfect as you always expect from Le Bernardin.

9Nov2014

Chicago – 10/19/14 – Next Trio

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

This is definitely the menu I was most looking forward to this year. I remember late last year when the menus were announced I flipped back through ‘Life, on the Line’ to see if I could get an idea of what dishes would be on the menu. I didn’t really find much but an hour later was still engrossed in re-reading the book. I wish I had the opportunity to dine at Trio but had never even been to Chicago at the time. How times have certainly changed. Absolutely loved this dinner and it moves into my top 3 of Next menus. So very cool to see the origins of many Alinea dishes. Hoping to do it again before it ends!

Brook Trout Roe – avocado, sugar, lime

Rock Shrimp – cranberry, Meyer lemon, vanilla bean

Crab – coconut, ten bridging garnishes

Chestnut – baked potato, bitter chocolate, quince

Ice cream sandwich – parmesan, olive oil, black pepper

Black Truffle Explosion

Duck – lavender salt lozenge, foie gras, plum

“Pizza”

Poached Loin of Lamb – floral infusion, artichoke, orange

“Cheese ‘n Cracker”

“Salad” – red wine vinaigrette

Raspberry – tapioca, rose, lemon basil

Pushed Foie Gras – pear, sauternes, salt-roasted pear sorbet

Passion Fruit-Mustard

Smoked Persimmon – endive, pancetta, coffee

Lobster – wild mushrooms, rosemary vapor

Burnt Pineapple – smoked salmon, soy, togarashi

Short Rib – root beer flavors

Transparency of Manchego

Huckleberry Soda – five flavors gelled

Maragda Chocolate at 94 degrees – flaxseed, yeast, beer

6Nov2014

Chicago – 10/18/14 – Nico Osteria, Momotaro and The Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Nico Osteria
This was unfortunately the first disappointing meal I have had at Nico and it wasn’t even their fault. We started this day attending a James Beard Foundation sponsored cooking demo at Sur la table where Chef Achatz did the Carbonara Explosion, a Parmesan version of BTE. I’m not going to say it was better than BTE but it was a VERY close second.

So of course we left with an intense craving for pasta carbonara, which Nico luckily had on the brunch menu, but there was just no comparison.

Chestnut coffee cake

Kouign Amann

Madai Snapper – kohlrabi salsa verde, nasturtium

Soft scrambled eggs – peperonata, prosciutto, olive focaccia

Spaghetti carbonara – bacon, egg yolk, bottarga

Cotechino – lentils, sunny side egg

Momotaro
I really wanted to love Momotaro but I just didn’t. Many friends have prior to my visit and since. Maybe it was just an off night, maybe we made poor menu choices, but I was just left feeling like it was just ok.
Tuna Jaga – tuna loin, gochujang miso, wasabi crispies

Smoked bacon & Eggs – soy marinated quail eggs, bliss maple syrup

Angel prawns – red chili yuzu kosho, ohba butter

Diver scallop – uni, ponzu butter, seabeans, ikura

Wafu potato salad – wakame, hakurei turnips

Aji Yakusugi – smoked jacked mackerel, 1000 year old cypress

Kurosawa Saba megamaki – seared marinated mackerel, sudachi lime

Wasabi salmon – marinated salmon, wasabi crispies

Curry udon – heritage pork curry, futo udon noodles, shishito

The Office
A bittersweet ending to the evening with the last drinks I will have made by the amazing Charles Joly at the Aviary. I wish I could remember the ingredients but they were all absolutely perfect. Dinner was washed away by the tartare by which all others are measured (and maybe a black truffle explosion or 2).

Wagu tartare

29Oct2014

Chicago – 10/17/14 – Au Cheval, Salero and Aviary

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Au Cheval
I do feel horribly that I have been cheating on my former first stop when arriving in Chicago. XOCO I promise to be back soon!

Salero
I really enjoyed Ashlee Aubin’s cooking at Wood but its a bit out of the way. So I was very happy that he was opening a place in the West Loop and it did not disappoint!
Jamon Serrano – manchego cheese, compressed pears, Marcona almonds and petite herbs

Chorizo stuffed quail – wilted spinach, golden raisins, pine nuts and Piquillo pepper sauce

Beets and shallots roasted in the embers – with ‘Monte Enebro’ goat cheese, frisée, salsa verde and toasted pistachios

Grilled flat-iron steak – oxtail stuffed Piquillo pepper, braised onions, salt-wrinkled potatoes and sauces mojo rojo and mojo verde

A mystery lamb dish as I failed to write it down and it’s no longer on the menu

Aviary
I hope the Death Row (shaken, stirred and brewed last words) stays on the menu for a while as the Last Word is one of my all-time favorites. An almost traditional Last Word, the Perennial Last Word collaboration beer, and a cocktail inspired by the beer (which was inspired by the original cocktail). And of course the first few of MANY Black Truffle Explosions of the weekend. Could there ever be too many?

25Oct2014

San Fran – 10/10/14 – Kin Khao & State Bird Provisions

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Kin Khao
I have read so much about Kin Khao recently that I was initially puzzled to arrive for lunch to an almost empty dining room. My first thought was ‘I guess I didn’t really need a reservation.” But of course it turned out that all of the tables were reserved and San Fran just starts lunch a bit later than I do running on EST. For being in a somewhat strange space in a strange location I loved the quirky decor which contributed to an ultimately homey atmosphere. The perfect amount of heat in each dish…the kind that makes you unable to stop eating. I must get back for the wings!

Som Tum papaya salad – shredded papaya, green beans, cherry tomatoes, dried shrimp, garlic, peanuts, lime, fish sauce

Blistered green beans in XO sauce

Pad Kee Mao – spicy stir fried drunken noodles with ground pork, rice noodles, garlic, bird’s eye chili, onions, bell peppers and holy basil

Khao Soi Gai – northern style chicken curry broth, egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, and spicy chili oil

After stops at Mikkeller Bar and Smuggler’s Cove….

State Bird Provisions
If I lived in San Fran I’m afraid that this blog would be half State Bird as I would be there every week. It’s so much fun that you don’t want to leave (which makes it even more impressive that they can turn tables at regular intervals). Thankfully I had some help on this trip so I could order more. But I still left too full to order an amazing sounding lamb dish (I am seriously full if I can’t eat lamb!). I started out trying to keep a list of all of the passed dishes but just gave up because I just wanted to enjoy the experience instead of documenting it. I think I may have missed a few pictures as well.

Pancakes

Toasts – chanterelle and pickled local anchovy

Butter clam ‘picatta’

Rose geranium ‘ice cream’ sandwich, chocolate cardamom ganache, pistachio and ‘world peace’ peanut muscovado milk

If there is a more unassuming and gracious chef than Stuart Brioza I have yet to meet him. Thank you Ryan Anderson for the truly fantastic hospitality! Looking forward to what’s next at The Progress!

22Oct2014

NYC – 10/8/14 – Corkbuzz Chelsea Market

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

In many life matters I tell myself to have low expectations so that I won’t be disappointed. And sometimes when you have absolutely no expectations you are surprised and impressed the most. It has been far too long since I have been to the original Corkbuzz, where I know I have eaten, but somehow have no recollection of anything I’ve had. So when I finally got to the new location for a glass of wine and a snack before a show at the Highline Ballroom I made a few random menu selections thinking nothing of it. But such incredibly delicious plates I was so pleasantly surprised! Looking forward to many return trips.

Brussels sprouts

Shaved vegetable salad (for the life of me I cannot remember everything that was in this)

Delicata squash

Cheese!

Potato chips

Whipped egg toast w/ bottarga

20Oct2014

London – 10/4/14 – Hibiscus & the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs

Posted in London by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Hibiscus
Such an absolutely lovely dining room that I am still talking about it weeks later. Beautiful flower arrangements and colors of glassware and upholstery. If it wasn’t such a chilly, rainy, miserable day I’m not sure that I would would have enjoyed my specific menu selections quite as much. But this particular day it was perfect.

Pumpkin velouté, blue cheese royal, buttermilk

Veal cheeks, parsnip & truffle, sauce Veronique

Cheese!

the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
I had the first seating of the evening for the KT so as I was finishing my meal the other half of the counter was about midway through theirs. It was torture smelling some of their dishes being made for the second time of the evening because I was wishing that I could eat several again (Pigeon please!). I knew I was going to love this experience when I saw Chef Knappett’s wallpaper in the bathrooms earlier in the evening, custom made from his personal menu collection. I have an entire wall full of framed menus and wish I would have thought of wallpaper…just brilliant! And my Alinea loving heart loved seeing a piece of Crucial Detail across the pond.

Oyster

Shrimp

Chicken

Scallop

Trout

Cep

Pig

Pigeon

Clauson

Raspberry

Pear

Caramel

Clementine

Cider

Vanilla

13Oct2014

London – 10/3/14 – Hedone and the Clove Club

Posted in London by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Hedone
I am never late but nearly missed lunch due to an underground that never arrived. Luckily I evidently can navigate the system rather well and was only a few minutes late in the end. When dining alone there is is nothing I love more than a chef’s counter and an open kitchen to provide hours of entertainment. And nothing makes me feel better than when 5 out of 7 of those at the counter were solo diners. Such an absolutely lovely leisurely lunch that truly felt like a vacation day.

Canapés

Amuse bouche – I am so glad that for once I admitted that I am not the biggest oyster fan. The replacement smoked egg dish was outstanding (and I do love a good egg)!

Cevennes onion, pear shavings, sage

Liquid Parmesan ravioli, sweet onion consommé, mild horseradish, guanciale

Roasted loin of venison, radishes, plum, beetroot

Provence fresh figs, lemon and thyme

Warm chocolate, powdered raspberry, passion fruit jelly, Madagascar vanilla ice cream

The Clove Club
I read a few reviews of the Clove Club with quite negative comments about the space and decor. But I immediately loved everything about the furnishings, high ceilings, and especially my adorable marble topped table. Shoreditch Town Hall dates to the mid 1800’s and it just seemed to fit the building perfectly.

Selection of Snacks

Gilt head bream sashimi, mustard leaf, cobnuts & brown butter

An extra course

Hazel wood grilled squid, tarragon & radishes

Another extra!

Roast Speckle Faced lamb, Cherokee beans, Anthony & mint

Amalfi lemonade & Sarawak pepper

French figs & hazelnut ice cream

And the final bites…..love this!

7Oct2014

London – 10/2/14 – Dabbous, Callooh Callay, Lyle’s

Posted in London by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Dabbous
I had read quite a few mixed reviews of Dabbous, but there was enough good that when I could actually get a reservation I had to check it out. The tomato on toast was perfect. Such a great example of how the most simple dish, well executed with great ingredients can be the standout of the entire meal. I’m still a bit puzzled however by the acorn flour noodles. It tasted exactly like ramen noodles. I haven’t done enough research to determine if this was a deliberate haute version (in which case they nailed it) or was accidental.

Tomato on toast

Acorn flour noodles in a duck & fenugreek broth

Roast veal fillet with late summer vegetables & a light cheese broth

Warm fig & honey cake

Chilled rice milk infused with fig leaves

Callooh Cally
I stopped by Callooh Cally on my way to dinner and had two lovely cocktails and a lovely chat with the bartender about other cocktail spots in London. Loved the Oyster card menus.

Fernet Me Not

Lyle’s
I debated lunch vs dinner at Lyle’s but finally decided that sometimes not having to make decisions is a good thing and so went with the fixed dinner menu.

Snacks

I was in the middle of a book I have been trying to find the time to finish for weeks. It was historical fiction about WWII, had nothing to do with food or the sea. Yet oddly enough as soon as I finished the mackerel dish, I turned the page to find this line.

Beef Steak Mushroom, Egg & Onion

Squid & Tomato

Middle White, Pumpkin & Chestnuts

Pear, Wigmore & Walnuts

Elsie Plums & Vanilla Ice Cream

5Oct2014

Princeton, NJ – 9/29/14 – Mistral

Posted in Princeton by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I had been meaning to get Mistral for several months as I need to accept that I now work in the suburbs and make the best of it. But it took me far too long to find somebody to drag along and subject to my picture taking. I’m definitely looking forward to a return visit in cooler weather when I will want to sit beside the very cute fireplace.

Warm falafel salad – sprouted grains, black sesame, carrots cooked in barley

Blue crab salad – green curry, peanuts, coconut, puffed rice

Lamb tartare – kefir, spelt, marinated eggplant

Gulf snapper – tomato escabeche, crispy okra, pardon peppers

Poached egg – pomodoro, roasted squash, bottarga, crunchy pasta

Kali short rib – kimchi,mcicumber, scallion

Sweet steamed bun – plums, buckwheat, miso

Brown butter cake – banana, walnut, rum

3Oct2014

Portland, ME – 9/27/14 – Duckfat

Posted in Maine, Portland by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It’s been far too long since I’ve been to Duckfat and its probably a good thing I don’t live in Portland as it would be in heavy lunch rotation. Again a wait and unamused family members that I made stick it out. Maybe I will have to visit Maine in the winter.

Roasted beet and turnip salad – herbed goat cheese, toasted walnuts, local greens, apple vinaigrette

Smoked duck breast and spicy corn salad – cherry tomato, kale, red pepper, basil, sour cream vinaigrette

Fries of course

House smoked turkey panini – apple jalapeño relish, Monterey Jack, honey mustard

Homemade meatloaf panini – lettuce, tomato, cheddar, spicy special sauce

1Oct2014

Maine -9/26/14 – Robert’s Maine Grill, Portland Hunt & Alpine Club, and Central Provisions

Posted in Maine, Portland by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Robert’s Maine Grill
I never order lobster rolls because they are typically disappointing and always too expensive to be so. But as Robert’s won TT’s Lobster Rumble 2014 I made the family stop for lunch. They all made poor menu choices as I was the only one to order it. Their loss and my gain as it was fantastic. Butter not mayo.

Portland Hunt & Alpine Club
Pre-dinner drinks while waiting for a dinner table. Such a cute space and good cocktails. But most importantly we have found our Christmas ham for this year (as well as Christmas gifts). The ham from Olympic Provisions (the other Portland) on the Hunter bord was amazing and both the pickle and sausage of the month programs are going on my list.

Central Povisions

I knew there would be a substantial wait at Central Provisions as it is tiny and has received a lot of great press recently. When told it was 2 hours my brother and sister-in-law were definitely not amused and were looking at me for a plan B. But I held my ground (and maybe had a bit of a mini temper tantrum). I’m glad I did and I think they are too.

Cantaloupe and figs – lardo, black olive, jalapeño

Roasted squash salad – Rosemary, pomegranate, ricotta salata

Spicy beef salad – sriracha, cilantro, peanuts (So good that we ordered a second!)

Carmelized sheep’s cheese – peaches, 15 year aged balsamic

Smoked carrots – cinnamon, house goat cheese, pistachio

Confit local potatoes – foie gras butter, farm egg, garlic scape

Suckling pig – apple, brown butter, Marcona almond

Tart – key lime

23Sep2014

Chicago – 9/21/14 – Little Goat, Balena, Alinea, Three Dots and a Dash

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Little Goat
It was very difficult to walk past Au Cheval but for once I had enough willpower to not ruin my dinner. Every time I go to Little Goat I swear that I will try something different, yet inevitably I stick with my favorite. Maybe next time….

Parathas Burrito – Indian flatbread, sunny side eggs, avocado-bean salad, chili pepper sauce, sheep’s milk cheddar

Balena
Pre-dinner drinks

Alinea
I so look forward to every trip to Alinea and then feel so sad when it’s over. There is always a new dish that I am wowed by and the service is always impeccable. But what I often love most are the fantastic people who work here. I had heard such great things about the corn dish and it was indeed the highlight of the meal. I could have eaten four, a few black truffle explosions and called it a night. The other highlight of this menu for me was definitely the urchin. There are few foods that I don’t like and most of them present textural issues. I have tried and tried to like sea urchin, but I admittedly just don’t. To date the best uni course I’ve had was at 42 grams where it was on top of brioche and the textural contrast helped dramatically. This urchin course went a step further turning the urchin into a cake. For the first time I was able to just enjoy the flavor.

Ostera

Salsify

Urchin – cake, nori, vanilla

King crab – melon, lardo, honey

Skate – brown butter, lemon, herb stems

Tomato – ashed goat cheese, pistachio, licorice graffiti (on concrete)

Corn – truffle, manchego, sherry

Rhubarb – celery root, celery branch, licorice
(Somehow I missed a pic of this one)

Sweetbreads – orange, ginkgo nut, cinnamon chop sticks

Matsutake – pine, huckleberry, tapioca

Lily bulb – rambutan, distillation of caviar lime

Pork belly – parsnip, black trumpet, kombu

Hot potato cold potato

Duck – foie gras, lobster mushroom, dragon’s breath

Black truffle explosion

Blueberry – bubblegum, lilac, sorrel

Balloon – helium, green apple

Tropical fruit – rum, allspice, kafir lime

Three Dots and a Dash
Post-dinner drinks! Thank you Paul McGee for the always amazing hospitality!
Jet Pilot – dark Jamaican rum, gold Dominican rum, ovenproof rum, lime, cinnamon, grapefruit, falernum, absinthe, angostura bitters
Don’t Touch My Bikini – genever, coconut, lime, hellfire shrub, angostura bitters

22Sep2014

Chicago – 9/20/14 – Nico Osteria and Juno

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Nico
I have probably said this before but Nico continues to be my new favorite in Chicago. It’s equally great at all times of the day and is one of the few places open for a late breakfast/early lunch.

Black currant scone (with honeyed whipped ricotta not pictured)

Wild king salmon belly – fermented chile, black lava salt, green apple

Heirloom tomato salad

Juno
My first trip to Juno was unfortunately shortly before it was forced to close when a fire broke out in the building. So happy for Jason Chan and BK Park that after many months it has finally re-opened. I’m looking forward to a return trip for omakase. And really enjoyed Sam McDermott’s new hot dishes (but wet naps are a necessity for the wings!). Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of the menu so my photos are unlabeled. Apologies!

14Sep2014

Jersey City – 9/13/14 – Thirty Acres

Posted in Jersey City, New Jersey by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Thirty Acres is still the best thing in Hudson County by a mile but unfortunately this wasn’t my favorite meal there. Thankfully the lemon bar always saves the day.

Seared squid – squid ink and roasted garlic sauce, oregano

Spicy eggplants – tahini quark sauce, za’atar, pine nuts, parsley

Shishito peppers – melon guanciale, basil

Fried corn gnocchi – shrimp, tomato sauce, chili flakes, basil

Pork neck – sunflower hozon jus, baby lettuce, chives

Lemon bar

11Sep2014

NYC – 11/9/14 – Claudette

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It is always nice to be very pleasantly surprised by a meal. I went into Claudette expecting only a very cute space, which it certainly delivers on, and a solid menu. It absolutely exceeded expectations and my only disappointment was that I had to skip dessert in order to get to a show on time. I’m looking forward to a return brunch visit as it is rare that I see a NYC brunch menu that interests me. Lastly, I LOVE the large doors that open to the sidewalk. This was one of my favorite things about Locanda Verde years ago and then several trips in a row in lovely weather the doors were closed and so I stopped going back.

Brigitte – chartreuse, noilly prat vermouth, cucumber

Spring peas & radish – ras el hanout vinaigrette

Fennel salad – almond, dried apricot, tarragon

Cockles – cuttlefish, couscous, cauliflower, red jalapeño

Corsican mint salad – arugula, hearts of palm, green beans, quinoa

Chicken tagine – Swiss chard, bulgar, almond, orange, Harissa

28Aug2014

NYC – 8/23/14 – Champagne Charlie’s, Lobby Bar @ Ludlow Hotel

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Champagne Charlie’s
Summer is nearly over and I still have a long list of patios and roofdecks to visit. Unfortunately this wasn’t such a great choice to make it to the top of my to-do list. I really hate to be so negative but I can’t remember the last time that I wanted to get up and leave anywhere before ordering. In the 10+ minutes that it took our server to appear I became overwhelmingly annoyed with the drink menu. I don’t even blink at paying quite a lot for drinks but when anything is just outrageously marked-up I am left feeling like I am being taken advantage of. Added to this were the grating voices of the large group beside us who seemed thrilled with the many bottles of overpriced sparkling wine that they were consuming. At least the space was adorable and the food decent (well aside from the absurdly tiny portions of crostini).

Duck rillette

Burrata, cherry tomatoes, micro basil

Baby beet salad, horseradish, creme fraiche, pumpkin seeds, arugula

Lobby Bar @ Ludlow Hotel
At least for the next few days until the Torrisi boys’ Dirty French opens, this is a hidden gem. For most of the evening we were the only people in the courtyard. There is indeed a first time for everything (and probably a last as well).

Lilikoi – cognac and Jamaican rum, passion fruit, house falernum, lime, bitters
Chai matsuda – chai-bourbon, americano, cardamom, orange bitters
Ludlow gimlet – Plymouth and navy strength gins, cinnamon, creme de abricot, fresh lime

Pigalle – bourbon, ancho chile, bitter apertif, fresh orange and lemon juices
Belmondo – blanco tequila, pear eau de vie, ginger, gentian, fresh lemon

25Aug2014

NYC – 8/17/14 – Ivan Ramen

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I almost forget to do this update from last week but luckily a co-worker mentioned ramen today and a lightbulb went off. I’ve been looking forward to Ivan Ramen opening since Ivan’s dinner during the NYC Food & Wine festival last year. At least the Slurp Shop in Gotham West was there to tide me over for a few months, but it’s great to now have the full menu. Get there before summer is over for the cute back patio!

Chinese broccoli & garlic – sweet soy pickled garlic love sauce

Pickled daikon XO – shaved daikon, dried shrimp & scallop chili oil

Roast pork Musubi – salted plum wasabi, roast tomato, toasted nori

Triple pork triple garlic mazemen

Spicy red chili ramen

24Aug2014

NYC – 8/22/14 – Betony

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Betony has been on my to-do list since it opened and I have stopped for drinks and appetizers but not a proper dinner. Sometimes you just need a push from friends from out-of-town.

Fried pickles, wax beans, gribiche

Foie gras bonbons, cashew, black pepper

Zucchini, gruyere, mint

Pig’s head terrine, mustard, salsa verde

Sweet corn agnolotti, summer truffle, cotija cheese

Grain salad, labne, sprouts

Grilled short rib, frisée, lovage

Seared halibut, golden beets, currants

Roasted chicken, chanterelles, peaches

Roasted lamb, eggplant, black vinegar

Italian hot chocolate

Peach, lavender, oats

Sweet corn, blueberry, basil

16Aug2014

NYC – 8/16/14 – Milk Bar Baking Class

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I felt pretty guilty walking out of this class with a whole Crack Pie and 2 bags of birthday cake truffles just a few hours after talking about what needs to change in my diet. But in my defense this had been on the calendar for weeks. And if you have had Crack Pie you know that I have no choice but to eat it.

13Aug2014

NYC – 8/11/14 – Root & Bone and Morgenstern’s Ice Cream

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Root & Bone

The first time I tried to visit Root & Bone unfortunately the basement was flooding. But Chef Janine Booth was so sweet that I couldn’t hold it against them. The space is certainly tiny and in winter, without the windows open, it may feel even more so. But the decor is adorable. On the tables is mismatched china and at the seat next to me a pattern I recognized from many holiday dinners. The food was all delicious and there were enough other things on the menu that I wanted to try that a repeat visit is necessary. Unfortunately the food came out much too quickly. If you aren’t even going to attempt to course out my dinner and space it appropriately, then you should have tables large enough to accommodate everything I’ve ordered. There is nothing worse than feeling rushed to finish a dish otherwise you will be holding on your lap the next thing they bring out.

The twisted mustache – Russels 6yr bourbon, Swedish putsch, citrus, ginger

Drunken deviled eggs

Southern peach caprese – fried pimento cheese, grilled peaches, pickled green tomato, heirloom tomatoes, sticky molasses vinegar, basil

Half bird – sweet tea brined, pickled lemon dusted, spiked tabasco honey

Braised short rib meatloaf – parsnip root mash, tomato ketchup jam, charred spring onions

Succotash

And a great idea for a bill presentation that I haven’t seen before.

Morgenstern’s

Fernet and ice cream. Is there really anything else that needs to be said?

12Aug2014

Chicago – 8/10/14 – Japonais by Morimoto, Aviary celebration of World Class Bartender of the Year Charles Joly

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My last experience at Japonais was at the NY location many years ago and it was terrible. I had heard good things about the Chicago location since Morimoto redesigned the menu, so even though I generally disfavor restaurants with attached celebrity chefs who aren’t in the city, after several large meals sushi seemed like a great idea. And how amazing to walk into a restaurant in Chicago and run into people I know (and 2 nights in a row). Yet another reason I feel so at home here.

Tuna ‘pizza’ – anchovy aioli, olives, jalapeño, micro cilantro

Clam miso – white miso dashi broth, Manila clams

I always miss all of the special events at Aviary so it was an unexpected treat to find out I would be able to attend one – a surprise celebration for Charles Joly. I still can’t believe that everyone was able to keep this as a surprise with all prep-work being done onsite, much with Charles in the building, and with the party starting upstairs while Charles was busy in the Office. All of Charles’ cocktails from the competition were served as well as various punches and snacks. Such a fun evening and it was so nice to see so many friendly faces as well as meet quite a few people whose names I had heard many times. Its still hard to believe how many friends I have made through this place. Until my next trip…

12Aug2014

Chicago – 8/9/14 – Little Goat, Ceres’ Table, Next – Modern Chinese, The Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My first blog entry with no photos! This was a complete day of repeat visits and so I took the opportunity to put my camera away.

We started the day at Little Goat which has replaced Publican as my favorite brunch spot in Chicago. Yes there is almost always a wait, but it seems that not too many people realize you can order from the full menu at the bar in Little Goat Bread. Luckily not enough people read this blog for the secret to get out!

For pre-dinner drinks we travelled a bit north to Ceres’ Table. Thank you again Scott for the outstanding hospitality and the quite delicious veal heart crostini. I’m looking forward to getting back here for dinner on my next visit. I could eat the swordfish carpaccio all day!

Next up was my second visit to Next Modern Chinese. This was this first time that I have tried the non-alcoholic drink pairings (and so nobody starts to worry about me, this was in addition to the wine pairings). Many I loved, and even the ones I didn’t love, I have to admit were great pairings. Most of all these were quite complex and probably across all menus have never received the praise that they deserve.

Last but not least, there couldn’t be a better way to end an evening than to be served by the recently crowned world’s best bartender Charles Joly. At one point rather late in the night when I was the only one sitting at the bar, I couldn’t help thinking that even though I had been there dozens of times before, this was a completely surreal experience.

9Aug2014

Chicago – 8/8/14 – Nico Osteria, Balena, Aviary

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Nico Osteria
Nico has quickly become one of my Chicago favorites. I have stayed at the Thompson a few times on previous trips so it is certainly convenient for breakfast but is actually excellent at any time of the day.

Blueberry Cobbler – blueberry Death’s Door gin, citrus, honey, Amaro Cardamoro

Black Bream, lemon cucumber, pumpkin seed, almond oil

Striped Jack, citron vinegar, bird chile, radish, mint

Heirloom tomato salad, tonnato, farro, olive, lemon vinaigrette

Bar Harbor mussels, vermouth, almond butter

Artichoke autostrada, burrata cheese, pine nut-mint pesto

Tiramisu, marsala zabologine, aged lady finger crunch, white coffee

Balena
It has been far too long since I’ve been to Balena. And it was an added treat to unexpectedly find one of my favorite people working there!

Buffalo milk cheeses – Blu di Bufala, Caciocavallo, Casatica

Grilled zucchini romanesco, Calabrian vinaigrette, mint, almond

Shishito peppers

Orecchiette, kale, lemon, bread crumbs, chili

Rigatoni, pork ragu, porcini mushrooms

Glazed carrots, ginger, honey, mint

Aviary

Amazing new stuff on the current menu including perhaps my favorite porthole since Aviary opened.

IFL Science – honey, blueberry, ginger, scotch

Monkey Tail – 1/2 frozen daiquiri, 1/2 brown & stirred

Heart of Stone – pistachio, fresno, peach, lapsang, whiskey

3Aug2014

NYC – 8/3/14 – Mission Chinese Pop-up @ Mile End Deli

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

So happy to be reunited with Mission Chinese. Yes I could have had it weeks ago at the Brooklyn pop-up. But I will be honest, it takes a lot to get me to Brooklyn. And at $40 this meal was a complete steal by NY standards.

Chong Qing chicken wings

Market tomatoes, fennel, black vinegar, lentils

Koji fermented cucumbers

Red cabbage salad, sesame anchovy dressing, puffed buckwheat

No idea what these noodles were called. #notonmenu

Mapo tofu, braised pork jowl, Sichuan pepper

Hainanese sausage rice, ginger scallion, peanuts, lettuce, pork fat vinaigrette

Bacon and rice cakes

Beef brisket & Chinese broccoli

3Aug2014

NYC – 8/2/14 – La Birreria

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

While NY certainly has a great number of roof decks, this remains one of my favorites. Fantastic views of the Flatiron and Woolworth Buildings, consistent food, no bottle service, no models, great beers, and is not overpriced!

Panzanella

Formaggi

Cotechino

Romano bean salad

Portobello alla grigila with whipped goat cheese, beets & Saba

Tiramisu

28Jul2014

NYC – 7/29/14 – the Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I know I can’t keep writing about the same places but this has quickly turned into one of my favorite spots. Perhaps because of the convenient location, perhaps because it’s hard to find this quality of food, drinks and service in one location in NYC. Or maybe it’s because I could eat the hot dog everyday (even though I have never had any previous interest in hot dogs).

I admit I do not get the fuss over the Canlis salad (on the menu for 2 weeks originating from Canlis in Seattle). It was tasty and perfectly executed and I can appreciate the nostalgia of a classic, but still……

Jungle Bird (not the reserve one!) and Forbidden Dance

Scotch olives – lamb sausage & sheep’s milk cheese

Tuna tartare – pine nuts, apple & mint

Hair Trigger – Venezuelan rum, fernet, ginger, lime, cucumber

The Shaman – pisco acholado, salers, pineapple, lemon, cinnamon, angostura

Canlis Salad – romaine, bacon, mint, oregano & Romano cheese, dressed with lemon, olive oil & coddled egg

Bay scallops – marinated with yuzu & pistachio

Burger – dry aged with cheddar, red onion & pickles

Charlie Watts – aged rhum agricole, Guyanese rum, Batavia arrack, black pepper, apricot, lemon, pineapple

27Jul2014

NYC – 7/21/14 – Empellon Taqueria

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

When I’m traveling I seem to get asked a lot what my favorite New York restaurants are. Inevitably I struggle to answer because with an endless stream of new places opening there is often never time to re-visit those that I really like. But I really do have favorites and this is certainly one. I’ve been a huge fan of Empellon Taqueria since it opened and everything Alex Stupak has done since. I had been wanting to get to the monthly taco tastings for a while but it just never worked out. So glad I finally did. Loved them all but the crushed fava bean was definitely my favorite! The lighting is not photo friendly though.

Guacamole (2nd in NYC only to that at Empellon Cocina)

Crushed fava beans, charred pole bean

Smoked salmon, cucumber, toasted almond, purslane, mezcal

Eggplant, sun gold and gooseberry salsa, papalo, chipotle mayo

Lamb’s quarters, rabbit, avocado green goddess dressing

Broccoli and huanzontles, pimento cheese, chicken chicharrones

Duck ‘Moo Shu’, sour plum salsa, celtuce

25Jul2014

San Fran – 7/20/14 – Bar Agricole, Humphry Slocombe, Flour & Water

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Bar Agricole
The only disappointment of the weekend was missing out on Bar Agricole’s cocktails. I woke up with migraine induced nausea so terrible that I didn’t know how I would possibly make it to brunch. I forced myself out and thankfully rallied but a Radler seemed to be a better idea for an upset stomach.

Avocado and beets with goat cheese and seeds

Baked eggs with black eyed peas, house-cured ham, wild spinach and goat cheese

Humphry Slocombe
As it just happened to be National Ice Cream Day I needed no further justification for an afternoon ice cream! I’m not sure that there could be anything better than bourbon ice cream.

Flour & Water
I waited in line but unfortunately lost our first table as my friends were stuck in traffic. How convenient that Trick Dog was right across the street while waiting for them to arrive! It all worked out perfectly and I had plenty of time to make it to the airport. I wish I had gotten the name of the absolutely lovely hostess who texted me updates on or new table.

Heirloom tomato panzanella with cucumber, mozzarella Di bufala & basil

Grilled stone fruit with herbed ricotta, salsa verde, purslane & pistachio

Corn cappelletti with honey & chocolate mint

Pork cracklings with calabrian chili aioli

Pici which braised rabbit, gypsy pepper & prosciutto soffrito

Pomodoro – heirloom tomato, fior Di latte, garlic & basil

Salsiccia – pork sausage, Calabrian chili, capers, lamb quarters

Chocolate budino with espresso cream & sea salt

Zucchini cake with fried squash blossom, chantenay carrot & gelato di bufala

Seasonal gelato

21Jul2014

San Fran – 7/19/14 – SPQR, State Bird Provisions, Trick Dog, Wilson & Wilson

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

SPQR
After a morning walk up and down a few hills I kept walking the whole way to SPQR for lunch. I so rarely eat pasta that I appreciate it even more when I do and this was delicious. Of note, there were more solo diners here for lunch than I have ever seen at any other restaurant. We actually outnumbered the 2 and 4-tops. I know it’s not a good thing for the restaurant’s bottom line, but I did love seeing it. Even though I’m quite comfortable dining alone, there are still moments when I feel like a complete outcast.

Sweet carrot and lentil salad, medulla date and vadouvan curry crema

Buckwheat tagliatelle, cider and bacon braised suckling pork and spigarello broccoli

State Bird Provisions
I had a moment after I had been waiting in line for about 45 minutes when I was seriously questioning my sanity. I hate waiting in line. Perhaps one too many times of trying to be in the front row of a general admission show. I’ve only waited at a restaurant twice before, oddly both for pizza, Di Fara and Pizzeria Bianco. The former I barely remember as we were so hungry by the time we got our pizza that we would have eaten cardboard and so totally inhaled it without even tasting it. And the latter is my absolute favorite pizza in the US so it was well worth the wait.

If I lived in San Fran I think I would be at State Bird once a week, line and all. Hands down this was the most fun I’ve ever had dining alone. I never even picked up my book. The dim sum concept is just fantastic when so well done. It’s a bit like gambling in that you don’t know if you should take the 1st dish that comes around, or hold out for something you may like better. At first I wished there was a list so I would know how many choices there would be and strategize appropriately (actually there is a list online but I wasn’t sure how frequently it changed, etc). But I quickly realized that being surprised made it so entertaining. Next time I do need friends just so I can try more. In the end I only ordered 2 things from the actual menu but saw so much leaving the kitchen that I wanted to be able to eat. Lastly I think it takes a certain personality to work in this type of concept and everybody here had ‘it’ in spades.

Shrimp ‘Louie’ bean salad

Guinea hen dumpling

Garlic bread with burrata

Air dried beef with chili juice, rice powder & garlic chips

Smoked trout-avocado chip & dip

CA state bird with provisions

Yeasted butter cake, sing old tomato caramel & peaches

Trick Dog
Thankfully not everybody went to Tales of the Cocktail!

Coit Tower – Rittenhouse rye, raspberry, thyme, lemon, cider

Dragon Gate – campo de encanto acholado pisco, muscat, Szechuan pepper, lemon, ginger, egg

Wilson & Wilson (in Bourbon & Branch)
Even better than a basement speakeasy is one with a password. I’m still trying to figure out what I said to get myself labelled as a scotch drinker! I needed you dad.

19Jul2014

San Fran – 7/18/14 – Coqueta, Mikkeller Bar, Coi

Posted in San Francisco by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Coqueta
A lovely lunch at Coqueta but why do I always get the clueless diners? A table of guys thought they were so cool, yet tried to order chips & salsa (at a clearly Spanish restaurant but I guess Spain and Mexico are the same) and then despite a great cocktail list, a T&T as if it was the greatest drink of all time. Don’t get me wrong, I love a G&T but not when there are much more interesting versions on the menu.

Tariff- jamon iberico infused gin, acorn & apricot tonic, orange, cava

Esparragos Trigeros con Romesco – wood grilled green asparagus with coal roasted romesco salsa, raw manchego and Marconi almonds

Huevos Nacional – deviled eggs filled with spring pea, smoked pimentos aioli, on pickled saffron potatoes and olive oil poached bonito

Jamon Serrano

Pintxos

Albondigas a la Feria – Grilled duck and pork meatballs with tart cherry and Tempranillo salsa and crispy shallots

El cazador – oloroso sherry, Campari, lime, honey

Cheesecake

Mikkeller Bar
I couldn’t stop thinking that as much as I enjoyed this place my brother should have been with me because he would have loved it more. I do find it interesting that while the brothers don’t get along, they clearly respect each other’s talents as Evil Twin is featured predominately here (as is Mikkeller at Torst).

Coi
Lovely is the only word that comes to mind to describe this evening. Exceptional service. Great wine pairings. And the most perfectly portioned tasting menu I can remember having.

California Bowl

California Sturgeon Caviar, egg yolk poached in smoked oil,crema fresh, chive

Seared Spot Prawn, watermelon, cucumber, opal basil

Cherry tomatoes, purée of grilled zucchini and wheatgrass, green olive oil, herbs and flowers

Chilled spiced eggplant soup, pole beans, charred okra, fermented chile, flowering cilantro

Wild king salmon, crayfish bordelaise, lovage, fennel pollen

Steamed shiitake potato dumpling, mushroom dashi, brown butter, tatsoi

Emigh ranch lamb, chard leaves and stems, garum, rosemary

Coconut Mochica bun, kiwi, shiso

Ha’ogen melon, olive oil, holy basil

Blueberries and Violet

Frozen dark chocolate yuzu marshmallow

15Jul2014

Philly – 7/14/14 – Serpico & Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co

Posted in Philadelphia by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Serpico
As expected ex-New Yorker Peter Serpico is doing great things in Philly. I may even forgive him for partnering with the intolerable Stephen Starr because I liked this place so much. Loved the decor by Thomas Schlesser and this would be a perfect spot for solo dining because of the very large section of counter seating around the open kitchen. And while we did just arrive just before a deluge, it flooded the restrooms.

Midnight Society – Four Roses Yellow Bourbon, Lairds Applejack, honey, lemon, red wine float

Raw diver scallops – buttermilk, poppy seeds, green yuzu kosho, white soy, chive

Rice cracker

Duck liver mousse – pomegranate, grilled bread

Cope’s corn ravioli – chorizo, white cheese, sour cream, lime, cilantro

Fried maitake mushroom w/ dipping sauces

Caper brined trout – smoked potato salad, pepperonicini, crab, trout roe, chive oil

Toasted apple cake – burnt apple sauce, brown butter, vanilla ice cream, caramel

Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co

The Mother of Invention – Famous Grouse scotch, fernet, Luxardo Maraschino, grapefruit and lemon juices, ginger syrup, peychaud’s bitters, tonic

A Walking Study in Demonology – Rittenhouse Rye, Gran Classico, Branca Menta, cane syrup, allspice dram, angostura

14Jul2014

NYC – 7/13/14 – Cherche Midi

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Today’s lesson – always have a back-up plan. We intended to have dinner at Root & Bone but when I arrived a few minutes before opening they were in the midst of a basement plumbing crisis and dumping buckets and buckets of water into the street. Consequently no walk-ins. Janine Booth couldn’t have been more lovely and I will try again soon. On to Cerche Midi. It was a more appropriate pre-Bastille Day spot anyway! Overall solid, not earth shattering, but what I expect from Keith McNally.

Julia’s Blush – Campari, Citadelle gin, lemon juice, agave

Octopus terrine

Hamachi crudo w/ Yusuf, radish and shiso

Steak frites w/ Maître D’ butter

Pan Seared Salmon w/ lentils, cumin scented yogurt and greens

Roasted cauliflower w/ sauce gribiche

Lemon Tart and sherbet

Walnut cake w/ yogurt ice cream

7Jul2014

NYC – 7/5/14 – The Nomad Bar, Milk & Honey

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The Nomad Bar
I keep saying that this will not become the subject of too many blog posts, but I lied. It took all of my willpower to not go back for another hot dog today and I don’t really even like hot dogs that much. Let’s just say that the pot pie definitely has competition.

Satan’s Circus

Jungle Bird (and no not the $42 one!)

Swiss Cheese, beer mustard, pickles & pretzel chips

Beef tartare, horseradish & cornichons

Baked clams, breadcrumbs, bacon & garlic

Hot dog, bacon wrapped with black truffle & celery

Chicken pot pie, black truffle & foie gras

French fries, herbs, lemon & prommery mayonnaise

Cheesecake, strawberry & shortbread

Banana pudding with rum & brioche

Candy Bar with dark chocolate and caramel

Milk & Honey

5Jul2014

NYC – 7/4/14 – Raines Law Room, Library Bar @ the Nomad, Narcissa, the Third Man

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It’s so nice to have friends in town who love cocktails even more than I do. Even better is how absolutely deserted most of Manhattan is on July 4th. If only everyday was like this I would stay here forever.

Raines Law Room
Midnight Stinger – Ritthnhouse rye, fernet, simple, muddled lemon, mint

Library Bar at the Nomad
Fresa y Cerveza – Berliner Weisse, yellow chartreuse, strawberry shrub, jalapeño, agave, saline, lemon

Narcissa
The first time I was here I ended up horribly sick from a migraine and remember about 20% of my meal. What I remembered was good, although I wasn’t sure that I could trust my memory. Thank you friends for humoring me and giving me a redo.

Mission Figs, homemade ricotta, mangalista ham, sunflower seeds

Barley risotto, little neck clams, leeks, oregano

English pea tortellini, mushroom bouillon, opal basil

Tuna, cucumber-basil water, burdock, jalapeño relish

Crab salad, navel orange, hearts of palm, hazelnuts

Maine scallops, asparagus, maitake mushrooms, potato purée, lobster butter

Lamb Osso buco, spring pole beans, polenta, Meyer lemon

Lacquered duck breast, parsley root, melted leeks, rhubarb

Baby chicken, broccoli rabe, spiced sausage, brodo

Carrot fries, jalapeño-tofu dip

Super green spinach with potato chips

Sorbets

Warm apricot tart tatin, goats milk ice cream, pepper caramel

Parsnip-carrot cake, cream cheese frosting, golden raisins, poppy seeds

TheThird Man

Sensible Chap – Black Grouse Scotch, Zirbens, ginger, lemon

30Jun2014

NYC – 6/28 & 6/29/14 – Eataly and the Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

As I seem to eat at Eataly once a week this is hardly noteworthy other than I think I am finally improving on the close-up photos.

Eataly
Farmers Salad

I think I may have said that I would only do one post on the Nomad Bar, but evidently I didn’t really mean it. I may have to go through the entire menu before I stop posting pictures and yes I have already decided what I am having next week. This is going to become a bad Sunday habit.

the Nomad Bar
Forbidden Dance – genever, Aquavit, amontillado sherry, velvet falernum, vanilla, orgeat, pineapple, lime, nutmeg

Broccoli rabe salad with anchovy & parmesan

Tuna tartare – pine nuts, apple & mint served with rye crisps & cured quail egg

Satan’s Circus – rye, thai bird chili infused aperol, cherry herring, lemon

23Jun2014

NYC – 6/22/14 – The Nomad Bar

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I think the New Nomad Bar will be in frequent rotation. I do fear however that it will soon become as insanely crowded as the Library and Elephant Bar next door. But perhaps at least for the summer the standard crowd will be in the Hamptons!

Even though it’s hardly a summer dish I had been thinking about the chicken pot pie all day. Its essentially the bar version of the Nomad’s roasted chicken for 2. It did not disappoint and I may go as far as to say that I like it more than the roasted chicken (if I’m allowed to say that).

Shuttlecock – Cab franc, moscatel sherry, maraschino liqueur, yellow chartreuse, lemon, blackberries, mint, orange

Snow pea salad with pancetta, pecorino & mint

Scotch Dumpling – apple brandy,mislay scotch, amaro Montenegro,black pepper, lemon, egg white

Chicken Pot Pie – black truffle & foie gras

22Jun2014

NYC – 6/20/14 – Eataly

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Yes this entry is going to be dedicated to gelato. First, I’m sure my nephew would tell you it’s worthy of such (well maybe when he is old enough to distinguish ice cream from gelato) and second, because I accidentally deleted my dinner photos. I eat at Eataly more often than anywhere else in NY and by a large margin. But as often as I am there I have never had the gelato. I typically refuse to wait in line for anything in NY and I try my best to limit the indulgences while at home. Yes I always knew it was fantastic just based on Otto’s and yes I’ve had it a few times at Eataly Chicago where the line seems more civilized. But now that the seal has been broken I don’t trust my willpower. If I gain 10 lbs because of the hazelnut I somehow blame you MFC. Linc, when are you coming to visit?

16Jun2014

NYC – 6/14/14 – Rosette and Gran Electrica

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have finally turned into my brother and am continuing the birthday celebration for as long as possible. However we were also continuing the celebration of June and Gina’s June birthdays so I don’t feel so guilty.

Rosette
Rosette is just so cute and even though it’s in an almost forgotten part of the city is worth checking out.

Gran Electrica
This place really does have an awesome outdoor space under the Brooklyn bridge. Nit could have been a bit warmer but still was lovely.

Margaritas

Guacamole and salsa

Rajas tacos

Tinga de Pollo

Chorizo con papas quesadilla

Carne Asada

Platanos

Tres Leches

And a few pretty shots from Brooklyn

13Jun2014

NYC – 6/12/14 – Gato

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Unknowingly I happened upon chef’s night out. Marc Vetri, Michael Symon, Anne Burrell and Chris Santos. It’s amazing that I even saw them as I consider myself the typical head down New Yorker. I could brush shoulders with Tom Cruise and I wouldn’t even notice (unless he was committing one of the many sidewalk infractions).

Beef crudo, pickled Fresno chiles

Eggplant, manchego, oregano, balsamic

Piquillo filled with raw tuna, saffron sauce

White chicory salad, chorizo, egg, fontina, apricot-almond dressing

Scrambled eggs, almond romesco, boucheron cheese, tomato confit toast

Roasted cauliflower, pardon peppers, Argo dolce

Pizza with lamb sausage, tomato jam, mozzarella, mint

Steamed halibut, Sicilian olives, mint, anchovy, saffron tomato btoth.

Blackberry crostata, strawberry rhubarb gelato

12Jun2014

NYC – 6/9/14 – Employees Only, Empellon Taqueria

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

My birthday unceremoniously began with a flight delay and a sad, un-photo worthy bagel in the United Club. I was applauding my willpower in bypassing Tortas Frontera, but as the delay grew longer I was regretting my decision yet too lazy to backtrack to concourse B.

Back in New York time for cocktails at Employees Only.

Dinner at one of my favorite places that I too often forget about in the quest to try the latest spots. I still remember my first visit right after it opened when it was empty aside from myself and a food blogger. I’m looking forward to Alex Stupak’s next place! #alineaalum

Empellon Taqueria
Guacamole with smoked cashew and arbol salsa

Asparagus, smoked egg whites, deviled egg salsa

Nantucket Bay Scallop, avocado purée, pistachio, cocoa vinaigrette

Beets, brown butter crema, Jamaica flower dressing

Green chorizo, spinach queso fundido

Brussel sprout, malted hummus and hazelnut tacos

Short rib pastrami, pickled cabbage and mustard seed salsa tacos

Lamb barbacoa, cucumber, and salsa borracha tacos

Yuzu margarita

11Jun2014

Chicago – 6/9/14 – Nico Osteria, Eataly, Next

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

This day started off with me inhaling breakfast at Nico prior to a brutal aerial conditioning meets barre method type class. The food was lovely as Nico always is but wasn’t my best idea.

Nico Osteria
Bomboloni
Soft scrambled eggs, peperonata, prosciutto, olive focaccia

Afternoon cocktail at Salone Nico

For our afternoon snack I thought Brandi needed a tour of Eataly. I like the Chicago one so much more than NYC that I hate to pass up a chance to visit. And it was very tempting to steal this cool Peroni glass!

Eataly
Formaggi
Fagioli e carciofi

And on to the real purpose of this trip (not that we needed another reason aside from a birthday celebration)…..

Next : Chinese Modern

Pressed Okra

Bamboo Shoot and Lily Bulb

Scallop Dumpling with watercress and white fungus,
Pork Dumpling with Jujube and Cuttlefish
Congee as a hot foam with pork floss

Monkfish with white asparagus in a roasted spine broth

Crab with Green chile paste and fresh coconut

Tiger Salad with cold skin noodles and seitan
Tingly Squab with tarragon and Sumac
Skate chops in the style of Muslim lamb

Shrimp in a Duck Yolk “Sand”

Beef and Broccoli in liquid and solid state

Duck in Layers

“Pulling Threads” with Sweetbreads, Taro Root and Banana

Frozen rice soup with legumes and whipped vinegar

Dragon’s Beard Candy with a pressing of honey

Fortune….

And the highlight of the evening….my menu! Thank you so much to everybody at Next for going above and beyond always and making this such a special evening!

But this girl can do high and low equally well as 2 hours later I was doing a birthday shot of Jameson!

8Jun2014

Chicago – 6/7/14 – Xoco, 42 grams, the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have also been neglecting my all time favorite lunch stop and I’ve been a terrible sister-in-law as I had never taken Brandi. If only there was an XOCO in NYC.

42 grams
I cannot say enough good things about 42 grams. This was my 2nd trip and there were quite a few new dishes, all of which I loved even though I had some favorites on the previous menu. I could write quite a lot a bout the menu but I will leave it at the most surprising item of the evening. Asparagus gelato was a revelation in the same way that olive oil gelato was many years ago. And Alexa and Jake are fantastic hosts!

The Office
Julia’s very special cocktails
Wagu tartare

8Jun2014

Chicago – 6/6/14 – Au Cheval, Boka, Aviary

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have made at least two recent trips without having an Au Cheval burger and couldn’t possibly do another. While always an afterthought to the burger, the shaved vegetable salad is probably my favorite salad in the city.

Au Cheval
Shaved vegetable salad
Burger with fried egg and bacon

Somehow I never made it to the old Boka. It always lingered on my to-do list but there were always other spots I wanted to try more. Glad I got here finally but unfortunately can’t do a comparison of old vs. new. I never have chef spottings in NYC but Tony Mantuano was sitting across from us and certainly looks much older in person than on TV.

Boka
Heirloom carrots – pistachios, amaranth, smoked goat cheese
Roasted broccoli – yogurt, preserved lemon, Parmesan, smoked ham, almonds
Salt cod ravioli – fav a beans, artichokes, arugula, lemon
Rabbit loin and sausage – confit leg, fennel, turnips, mustard
Seared scallops – peas, morcilla, carrots, lemon

Aviary
Fords Model Tea Party
Italian Stallion
Shrimp
Mini foie snickers

2Jun2014

Chicago – 6/1/14 – Cicchetti, Acadia, and Aviary

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Another picture perfect day in Chicago called for more outdoor dining and it’s nice that there are finally more good options in river north close to hotels.

Cicchetti
Green dragon punch – green dragon tea, fresh squeezed lemonade, smith and cross rum, Jamaican bitters
House smoked whitefish, salad of shaved asparagus, spinach, peas, light Parmesan dressing
Ciabatta toast with European butter and house made jam

This spot has been on my to-do list for quite some time and somehow I had just never gotten around to it. Thank you Lou for the suggestion and introductions! Absolutely going back for the tasting menu.

Acadia
Foie gras torchon
Lobster bisque
Acadia burger – house made applewood bacon, double creme Gouda, special sauce, garlic dill pickles, potato salad
Stoning ton lobster pie – spring onion, pomes dauphinois, favas, mushrooms, thumbelina bisque, sour cream pastry
The – matcha, lychee, toasted rice
Profiteroles – black walnut, banana, hot chocolate

Aviary
And of course what would a trip to Chicago be without a trip to Aviary to see some of my favorite people in Chicago!

1Jun2014

Chicago – 5/31/14 – Big Star, Grace and the Office

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It is the absolutely perfect days like this that get you through a Chicago winter. Every time I was here December through March I was thinking ahead to summer at Big Star as for me it’s just not the same if not sitting outdoors.

Big Star
Chips & guacamole
Taco al pastor
Taco de pescado
Taco de pollo

Grace
Flora menu
Salsify, golden char roe, apple, oxalis
English pes, sudachi, green almond, miner’s lettuce
Asparagus, brioche, lemon, tarragon
Green strawberry, sesame, kafir lime, huactay
Ramp, sprouts, ash, yarrow
Swiss chard, red wine, elephant garlic, chervil
Dragon fruit, lemongrass, blackberry, sweet cicely
Banana, seaweed, finger lime, lime basil
Cherry, chocolate, coconut, nepitella

The Office

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31May2014

Chicago – 5/14/14 – Ceres’ Table

Posted in Chicago by Mary Lynne Kupchella

A huge thank you to Scott Manlin for the incredible hospitality. I’m very glad that I happened to pick the first day of a working pizza oven because I definitely would have missed out. I consider myself fairly picky about my pizza and this one passed my #1 criteria, at which almost all others fail, a non-soggy crust in the middle. If I lived in the neighborhood I would be eating this with a side of wagu tartare far too often!

Pizze – capricciosa – flor di latte, basil, artichoke, prosciutto cotto, black olives
Amberjack – arugula, capers, pink peppercorn, smoked olive oil
Smoked swordfish carpaccio – lemon zest, oregano, neonata conserva, chives
Wagyu beef tartare – mustard, cornichons, red onion, quail egg
Burrata di panna – yellow wax beans, blue lake beans, purslane, walnut vinaigrette
Cappellacci – veal bolognese, parmesan, crispy sage, black truffles
Cavatelli – wild boar sugo, escarole, leeks, pecorino
Spaghetti nero – seppie, garlic, chile, ricotta, parsley
Whole fish (blanking on what type!) – with rapini, potatoes, burnt lemon

26May2014

NYC – 5/26/14 – The Breslin

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

As much as I love to travel, I like being home during the summer, even more so on holidays, when everybody else has left the city and it’s as quiet as it will ever be. However I did feel like I was missing something without a BBQ to attend. The only remedy was a burger, and as Minetta Tavern isn’t open for lunch on Mondays, I went with my 2nd favorite. It has been far far too long since I’ve had this burger. In a city with an overwhelming number of choices and a constant stream of new places opening, I never prioritize the old favorites. I love everything about this burger especially the intense lamb aroma as soon as I started to cut it in half.

The Breslin
Lamb burger w/ feta, cumin mayo & thrice cooked chips
Brooklyn summer

19May2014

Munich – 5/19/14 – Ratskeller

Posted in Munich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The trip is nearing an end and I had yet to eat a sausage. I figured I couldn’t go home and admit to that so it was time to let a colleague take me out for some. For a huge, what I would consider ‘touristy’ place (aka something I would normally avoid at all costs) the food was quite good and the ambience something to be experienced at least once. I skipped the photo of the giant salad which I had just to make myself feel better about all of the meat.

Ratskeller

18May2014

Munich – 5/18/14 – Theresa

Posted in Munich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

If I was here for a bit longer I think I might actually be able to find some decent places (or at least ones better than my initial impressions). I got lucky coming across Theresa inadvertently in some web search for something else. A very cute space, rustic and homey yet slightly industrial and white tablecloths working perfectly with wooden communal tables. I think Germany is probably a few years behind in a proper bloody steak as the menu said all were prepared medium. I was able to request medium rare, which it wasn’t, but very tasty nonetheless and I do appreciate good homemade steak sauce.

Theresa Restaurant

Hugo (prosecco, sparkling water, elderflower syrup, mint, lime)
Baked sheeps cheese – marinated beefsteak tomato, artichoke, olive
Dry aged Black Holstein rib eye from Germany
Caesar salad

17May2014

Zurich – 5/17/14 – Mesa

Posted in Switzerland, Zurich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Finally a memorable meal on this trip! I do hope to get back here someday not too far in the future and if so I will be back. I loved to sort of casual atmosphere with fantastic service. It is rare that I pick a vegetarian tasting menu, but the mood struck and I do think they are more difficult to pull off successfully. There were too many snacks and extra courses to list but regular menu as follows:

Mesa Restaurant Zurich
Nettle velouté – parsley root, carrot croutons
Artichoke – red pepper, tropes onion, courgette, eggplant
Pasta fatty in casa – prezzemolo, cima Di rapa, Parmesan
Onsen egg – potatoes, chanterelle, asparagus, peas
Cheese
Strawberries – ricotta, lime, avocado

17May2014

Basel – 5/15/14 – on Campus and Zurich – 5/16/14 – Brasserie Quadrino and Hotel Rivington

Posted in Basel, Switzerland, Zurich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Is it possible to overdose on cheese? If so I am doing a very good job at trying but only to get in as much good food as I can before returning to Germany. But to back up a few days, I wish I could contribute more from my first full day in Basel but unfortunately photos weren’t allowed on campus. That said dinner in one of the many restaurants on site was really very good and based on where I was, I was very impressed.

Brasserie Quadrino – Zurich

Hotel Rivington -at least I am having some success in finding cocktails. I am told that nobody drinks them in Germany and they are as sparse in Switzerland so far. I think the Swiss will catch up in a few more years. Anyway loved the space and the bartender and their classic cocktails were quote respectable.

14May2014

Basel – 5/15/14

Posted in Basel, Switzerland by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I’ve made it to Switzerland and it’s night and day. Not only is my hotel fantastic in comparison to the Munich work ‘approved’ hotels, but the food seems to be head and shoulders above Munich. Dinner one, planned by colleagues, and after a few days in Germany my expectations are so low that this meal was amazing. Actually objectively it was quite good. Well except for the first course of asparagus soup. Ok I will admit was great despite being totally over the German asparagus.

13May2014

Munich – 5/13/14 – Spezlwirtschaft

Posted in Germany, Munich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

The ‘business’ portion of this trip began today which limited my dining adventures dramatically. I will say I have a new appreciation for our hated cafeteria at home as if I worked here I would quickly lose weight. I finally gave in to a traditional German meal and my first beers in 3 days.

@Spezlwirtschaft
Rahmfleckerl
Veal schnitzel

11May2014

Munich – 5/12/14 – Bar Gabanyi

Posted in Germany, Munich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

So I guess Munich isn’t the foodie capital of the world. A very late lunch at a super cute place that I wanted to be great. The slushy aperol sour was….a perfect summer drink. The quinoa salad was fine. But the odd steak tartare with burrata I couldn’t even make myself eat. I can’t even let myself think about it while writing this or I may gag.

I had two proper cocktails at Bar Gabanyi which was adorable but I was the only patron for over an hour. I wish it had stayed that way as a group of guys came in, from Chicago, LA and UK and I had to fight off the advances of the LA guy until I could finish my drink and escape. The bartender tried to save me, kudos to him as you don’t see that in NY. I will be back next week.

And as much as it goes against my traveling meal planning, I am now enjoying a quite good shrimp Caesar salad at the hotel bar.

10May2014

Munich – 5/11/14 – Les Deux, Schumanns Bar, Dallmayr

Posted in Germany, Munich by Mary Lynne Kupchella

It’s very hard to believe it’s been about 20 years since I have been here. Day 1 down and I am proud to say I didn’t have a beer or anything from the sausage family. Not that I don’t love both of those things but I want to prove to myself that there is more to this city.

Lunch – Les Deux
Thank you NYT for this one.

Drinks- Schumanns Bar
Where it is a bit odd to see Pegu Club cocktails on the menu.

Dinner – Dallmayr
The only things I will note are (1) in all of my solo dining adventures I have never had the restaurant provide magazines…on the purse stool…I love the idea but didn’t read them as I got 1/2 way through the new Ruth Reichl book and (2) I really don’t like the huge Bavarian white asparagus.

3May2014

NYC – 5/3/14 – Madison Sq Eats

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Oh NYC…you never miss a chance to f me with the weather. I thought I was going to make the most of a lovely day with some outdoor dining. But of course the minute I got my pizza it started raining. Photo from the second before I ran for an umbrella. Not the most enjoyable eating experience standing up with not enough napkins to control the grease seeping through the plate. And yes the second I stopped eating the rain stopped. 😦

2May2014

NYC – 5/2/14 – Le Bernardin

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Aka the ultimate workday lunch indulgence. When you find yourself having a rare few weekdays in the city and must battle the midtown tourists, the destination must be worthwhile. And thanks to the lounge menu at Le Bernardin it was possible to fit into my CLE lunch break.

Kanpachi tartare, wasabi tobiko ginger coriander emulsion

Peruvian style scallop ceviche

Warm lobster and truffle en brioche

Loved all of these but could eat the ceviche and lobster everyday. And nearly rubbed shoulders with the Silver Fox. Lunch in NY doesn’t get any better than this. Carpe diem!.

2May2014

NYC – 5/1/14 – Gato

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I guess I am one of a few who knew this place would be great before it even opened. I planned to stop for a few bites at the bar before an early show and showed up a few minutes before the doors opened thanks to some B train good luck. By 5:30 there were at least 20 ppl in line. 2 weeks ago it was a totally different scene so it seems everybody else waited for the reviews to come out before jumping on the bandwagon.

Squid – bacon, garlic
Piquillo filled with raw tuna – saffron sauce
Eggplant – manchego, oregano, balsamic

White chicory salad – chorizo, egg, fontina, apricot-almond dressing

Charred carrots – parsnip chips, Harissa, mint, yogurt

Kale and wild mushroom pizza – crispy artichokes, egg

1May2014

NYC – 5/1/14 – Bouchon Bakery

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

I have now spent more than 6 months working in the suburbs with a dreadful cafeteria and otherwise poor lunch choices. Only the great company of my co-workers and Bobby’s Burgers have made it tolerable. And perhaps this has made me appreciate even more the rare day when I can pretend I still work in the city with great lunch options. I definitely took it for granted in the past. But if the food I miss, one session at this CLE reminded me of how much I don’t miss the job!

Anyway Bouchon Bakery kale Caesar salad with crispy chicken skin. And a pistachio macaroon hiding in the bag.

28Apr2014

NYC – 4/27/14 – Kin Shop

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Occasionally a dish exceeds already high expectations (and generally I am not a fan of sandwiches and am often disappointed by fried chicken).

Fried chicken sandwich. Emping chips, sriracha brioche, nam prik sauce, turmeric spiced aioli, hot pickles, slaw (carrot, cabbage, hot sesame oil, cilantro, sesame seeds, aioli), chicken thigh (marinated in oyster sauce, ginger, garlic, and shrimp paste).

Papaya and gem lettuce salad
Book Choy fried rice
Red curry burger

The sixth avenue

27Apr2014

NYC – 4/26/14 – Huertas

Posted in New York by Mary Lynne Kupchella

Fantastic dinner at the new Huertas in the east village. Two vermouth based pairings and I definitely have a new appreciation. Loved the scrambled eggs with shrimp and the lamb and ramp sausage! And how my tastes have changed…years ago I wouldn’t have touched anchovies, olives and rice pudding.